Sunday, July 17, 2016

The perfume of intimacy: Sex and the Sea by Francesca Bianchi

Ernest Chiriaka - saved from Noir Whale

Couldn't be happier when Francesca Bianchi, a self-made perfumer friend whom I'm proud of, sent me a link in which she prepared a short acknowledgment to thank people who inspired her to appear in the world of perfumery with her new brand perfume collection: Francesca Bianchi Perfumes. More than seeing my name among others, I was happy her effort justly fruited. I have been witnessing her progress since a year ago, when she first sent me a set of compositions named by numbers. All dense, warm, stabilized and mystique. A light flashed in my mind at the time and I believed she will have a shiny star soon... the next set was a set of samples named intriguingly (Let Me Be Your Toy, Angel's Dust, etc.) with dense quality, more profound, more settled, and several steps higher than the first generation. She now appeared in the trend with three perfume: Angel's Dust, Dark Side, and Sex and the Sea.

Among the three perfumes I'm infatuated by Sex and the Sea. This perfume has a distinct type of smell which is so familiar but quaint, like a name on tip of your tongue! The perfume is highly integrated like a single element but in fact it is compilation of essential notes that cast to emerge feeling of sensuality, intimacy, warmth, and damp air of seaside. Notes according to webpage are: mimosa, pineapple, coconut, immortelle, rose, iris, sandalwood, myrrhe, labdanum, benjoin, ambergris, civet, vanilla.

©Pierre de Nishapur, ©Francesca Bianchi
Taken by Francesca Bianchi

Sex and the Sea cracks with peculiar dusty smell merged within lactonic and woodsy dimensions. It's wild floral with immortelle and mimosa in the first level. Bitter, astringent with mimosa and immortelle, apothecal and intriguing, ready to embrace a strong touch of zest: coconut and pineapple. However, pineapple participates just very slight, while coconut vibrantly and constantly emphasizes of carnality with its oily and creamy aura. This nut/fruit has a great potential to illustrate intimacy air. It's fat, skin-mate, tanned, saline, zesty and sultry sweaty like all these aspects as in real.

By a touch of iris and muted dry rose the perfume gets in a new phase. The dusty or pseudo-dusty smell of intro now gradually subdues to exuberant yet calm powdery layer. But iris - or in general the powdery effect - is not so feminine or maquillage-smelling here. It's natural and leather-leaning; that's why Sex and the Sea smells so skin-like like muscled up sweaty body. Something extremely salty that directly reminds sea salt crystalized on tanned skin, collaborates like bass guitar in dead metal band. It brings coconut forth and gives realistic dimensions without self-exposing. Furthermore, this salty quality is the joint between the bizarre and enchanting opening, and woodsy ambrosial base.

Francesca Bianchi, taken by Leonardo Perugini

Dry down in Francesca Bianchi's works (not only these three fragrances but also earlier editions) spins around and original, mystical, dark and warm amber accord that indicates on carnality without mentioning a word (of course the title of this perfume is exception). It's daring and generous use of materials from animalic realm to dark natural resins and balsams. She badly loves resins and I strongly suggest you to try Angel's Dust to discover an unique amber profile.
The dry down of Sex and the Sea is dark, woodsy, highly resinous and soft animalic with Shalimar-loving smoky vanilla. I have experienced such amber accords only in professional artisanal houses like Sonoma Scent Studio, or in higher class niche creations like Boadicea the Victorious.
Her amber accord is resin-structured, labdanum-full, smoked and sweetened by myrrh. This woody basement is quite supernatural if you look for a genuine amber structure. It's strong and pungent yet not punch in your face. Fluent, oriental and sensual. Means, Sex and the Sea, more than to be around coconut and wild flowers of the top, is around the nut and amber base to evoke intimacy air.
Many perfume houses emphasize on sexuality with title, ads, descriptions; sex sells and it sells good. But if you're interested to see how a perfume does seriously make a move take my suggestion and try Sex and the Sea thoroughly. It's a devil in bottle with great long lasting skin-embracing tenacity and mellow projection.

Carpe Odor!

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