Friday, September 30, 2016

Charm and misery: Baraonda by Nasomatto


Ugo Gattoni, Hippopolis

While we are still discovering his latest fruit - Seminalis - that the house released news Alessandro Gualtieri - founder and nose behind Nasomatto, Orto Parisi and MariaLux - adds a new fragrance to his Nasomatto line which the house had formerly announced for its departure from their future programs. Nasomatto is by far the most celebrated collection by the artist since it contains Black Afgano (hippie oud), Duro (wry-smiling leather), and Pardon (naughty chocolate oud).

Gualtieri who has moved beyond the realm of simplistic olfactory recognition games since 2008 with his first row of perfumes, releases Baraonda that sets a glitter in my eyes cause I, who have not been lured by the earliest blingtastic entries of Nasomatto, now see more open spectra in his landscape and see some of his latest works are effortlessly on my fragrance radar. His former works are explosion of reminiscent smells twisted unfamiliarly which I cannot fully decode to name a certain source, but now I see a turn in his current fashion and see clear realistic notes implemented in merge with his signature notes. Seems he's developing and I find his latest creations rather versatile, flexible and multidimensional with bold difference to the earlier ones. Notwithstanding talks and also outrages on the fragrance began just by its advent on databases before its official launch, that unveiled it with a standard Nasomatto flacon and a flash red sculpture cap showing the perfumer's head wearing a cone hat with a motto "feel so good". This in fact was not the final edition but a nice ad trick to catch millions of eyes and keep them impatiently waiting for its launch! Though it is far too early yet to precisely encapsulate Gualtier's achievements, personally tend to categorize the new current post-Seminalis era.


Baraonda has a berry initiation with aromatic fruity liquorish render that gives me taste of wintery rum-based fruity cocktails. It's fermented boozy and soft sweet with tinge of red berries, reminiscent of berries in Ellen Covey's coniferous berry: Blackbird, and Lalique's berry jewel: Amethyst. The berry note here conjures up a pleasure/misery conflict. While berries are posh notes to begin with, surprisingly, Baraonda is less showy than her siblings. "Her" I mentioned to indicate it is at the same time a flirtatious fruity opener that veers to feminine side in the first layer. Since the notes are not revealed I struggle to emerge some out; I confess I'm not very keen in this job! I usually pack my reviews with pointing out on three or four prominent notes cause a perfume in general is compilation of few bolder elements that play the main impact and some minor elements that slightly influence the playground.

Now try to imagine a combination which starts off with boozy berry that develops into woodsy spicy air probably containing cinnamon and sandalwood. Nevertheless, neither the milky floral theme nor the indolic animality of Seminalis aren't here, but the core of Baraonda vividly reminds me the base of Seminalis and I see the same powerfully evocative potentials in Baraonda too. The core of the fragrance, regardless to what it is in there, smells intriguingly like old book shelves. A soft acrid, plain, soft phenolic smell of something moldy and fungal that reminds me amber-turned book papers. This also gives a hue of leather to fruity side but it's not Tuscan Leather kind of berry leather duet! I mean the leather imagination is not that bold as long as caramelized fruity booze exists.

It is almost too late to detect the same resin and wood duet which runs veins of Duro, is running here too, cause after this translucent aura becomes clear the fragrance gradually settles in dry down with clean and comfortable musky freshness. Very shocked to see a Nasomatto with murmured projection and tenacity on skin but I personally don't worry about strength affairs. Ephemeral on skin but a good vibe worths much more that constant shout of what I can't really love. Let's categorize Baraonda: it's berry fruity from top to toe, boozy, woody, acrid, soft animalic, musky and faintly resinous. It's well balanced and classy, in contrary to giants of Nasomatto but it is a Nasomatto after all and gives you the same artistic disheveled hair vibe.

Carpe Odor!

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