Monday, October 10, 2016

Ancient and tranquil: Macaque by Zoologist

Photo by Jasper Doest, Natural History Museum

In the previous post I initiated with a short statement about pathetic scenario of today's fragrance business and anonymous brands who run a sizable part of this business with no certain ideology nor a defensible quality, in contrary, artistic pioneers in minority who put their best effort to deliver a soul into olfactory medium. Another examples is Zoologist. A Canadian-based house of perfume that achieved great applause and awards in short time. Victor Wong's zoo this time comes up with two new fragrances in 2016: Nightingale and Macaque.

Macaque is fruit of fertile imagination of British artisan perfumer Sarah McCartney who's mostly known by her own Londoner house of perfumery: 4160 Tuesdays. I have never been in her olfactory area so this is officially my first try from her. Macaque at first whiff demolishes my metropolitan cliché perception of monkeys which are noisy animals with freak behavior and a faces like ugly human. The perfume demonstrates a pizzazz mixed with avuncular ancestry and philosophical tranquility just unfit to our banana-loving chimps! I like the way Wong and his perfumers work on projects. All perfumes by them conjure up a new sight and interest to wildlife and animals just the way science works with specified details. And all in all they maintain amusing part of perfume which is pleasure of smell. This is the way a house put successful steps forward.



Photo by Victor Wong

Macaque initiates with mouth-watering green apple air that a brittle sappy grassy stuff collaborates it. It keeps me nailed to it. Galbanum has a prominent chypre persona here and it brings about a classical Belle Époque vivality that contrasts the modern fruity air. This is not only a premium galbanum brimming natural aspects, but also a big deal with composition. Galbanum swells in fat resinous dimensions and explodes with tender earthy smokiness of olibanum. Surprisingly, while a duet of tea for cooling down the resinous fruity theme amplifies on my friends' skins, I get more olibanum on me and hardly encounter a tea-like greenness.
Macaque sets down in a genteel style, simply growing more ghostly as it goes towards balmy woody base. There's an apothecal and ancient way of woodiness with a new face of oud that scales down the entire base without a loss.

In overall, Macaque is an artistic classical/postmodern freshened woodsy aromatic composition that displays a genuine quality of galbanum that is unavailable nowadays while the resin is massively presented in niche fragrances of this last years. Macaque has a wonderful skin-covering longevity with moderate sillage. Everything is engineered in this perfume.

Carpe Odor!


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