Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Animal-human: Peau de Bête by Les Liquides Imaginaires



While first half of 20th century was heyday of aldehydes, blackness and darkness allegedly is signature of the generation of Instagram and selfie. About seven years ago, Alessandro Gualtieri introduced his revolutionary manifest with man-made oud and something he called hashish in Black Afgano. A perfume that changed the destination of so-called niche class just the way YSL had done with M7 in 2002.

Have a glance once again to sum up, I have never had enthusiasm for Les Liquides Imaginaires perfumes but this time the house released a fragrance in 2016 which I can't simply skip over it without a review, not because it's a premium or unique fragrance, but simply because it's a perfume we have to discuss about.

First things first, Peau de Bête unleashes with sauvage liquor-sugary aroma infused in a blatant animalic integrity made over freshly harvested castoreum and skanky smell of civet. To be honest, for the sake of all extinct species, this opening is so irritating! I can't even call it an artistic creation. Smells exactly like new leather shoes in shoe store with balmy sweet smell of shoe polish that eventually gives me impression a tired horse after hours of work in farm.


Cypriol sings the intro then calls animalic members that begin with vinegary sweaty smell, turns into a refined buttery marine ambrosial bone (ambrarome) with something akin to smell of unwashed hair, that gets apart from animalic realm and veers into animo-human territory. The convey between this intro and curtain down, is strengthened by dark woody and burnt herbaceous notes.

Personally, I find the fragrance to be quite daring to wear for its repulsive opening, but when it comes to unwashed skin-scent of musky ambrosial base it is versatile. Interesting! The tenor animality of opening is totally vanished. Why I emphasized mostly on opening is because this fragrance has cannoned all its dimensions in first layer and what remains for base is flat and singular musky, and this gives me a skeptical facial impression cause seems they just wanted to make an animalic perfume and put all their animalic notes in lab together so the result is an accidental animalic.

All in all, I can't strongly claim it's a unique fragrance instead of outrageous opening. There are some benchmarks in this realm like Muscs Koublaï Khän, Caron Yatagan, Mona di Orio Cuir, etc. therefore, Peau de Bête cannot be way too much effort in animalic solidity. About wearability, it's pure animalic buttery and highly skanky and this category has a great fan club - like me - yet if you're not interested in musky compositions, put the perfume down, go to the next shelf. It's era of extremism but not all extremist things is always fit. I challenge this perfume from eye of typical audience and functionality to give it a physical feedback yet I admire its Satyr-like animality.

Carpe Odor!

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