Thursday, October 20, 2016

Mystery and gingerbread: Baptême du Feu by Serge Lutens


I'm here with my belated review on Christopher Sheldrake's latest creation in mainstream works of Serge Lutens which I've been testing whole summer but couldn't attend to jot down a few words. A good excuse for this long delay apart from health recovery, is once again Lutens invites me in a maze he created to play me like knight plays on chestboard but eventually he hints me to the fact that the new release is part of a new stream...

When I first tried L'Orpheline and La Religieuse I was surprised not only by their whispering projection but by their remoteness from famous Lutensian orientalism, which later I encountered the same irrelativity in Bas de Soie (still relative to earlier works with giant projection) and De Profundis which both are totally irrelevant to what Serge Noir, Ambre Sultan and Chergui are. Seems the mystical director has altered path from Moorish to European context and Baptême du Feu approves this claim.

Baptême du Feu, with a pale echo of former works, yet more inclined to new trend is new approach of Lutens - and Sheldrake - in the house's portfolio. The enticing title that fits more to Section d'Or fragrances, immediately emerges ultimate intriguing emotions by realistic smell of gingerbread immersed in ample amount of mouthwatering citrus accord that itself has scarcely displayed in Serge Lutens fragrances before, simply because with its bright and exuberant vibe it obviously contradicts Lutens' mysterious spirituality. This accord (tangerine, bergamot probably and overly ripe orange) is escorted by a strange powdery layer played over a faint animalic sett that I skeptically guess to be from castoreum as listed in some databases. Otherwise I could not name it precisely or even I would deny it cause this smoke is sulfuric and metallic.
However, the citrus accord submerges and gingerbread, which was present since the very beginning, manifests prominently with an abrasive smoky curtain.

Baptême du Feu is an ambiguously simple structure with an abyss-in-heart that is hard to decypher. A render of woodiness and something anonymously floral polishes the edges of ginger material which is the constant ruler of the perfume beside ripe orange that keeps the whole sweet and sentimental and strangely metallic.
Wrapping the perfume in overall, it's gingerbread, jammy citric, metallic, woody, pale dusted and rustic. A curious case in orange realm and a delicious scent that one hesitates  to name gourmand as well as no one calls it a loud projection. But all in all, the more I try my vial on my skin, the more I fall in Lutens' fire with pleasure. Seems I finally found a new member for my Lutens collection. Two thumbs up.

Carpe Odor!

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