Saturday, October 8, 2016

Majescule iris: L'Attesa by Masque Milano


Tie a silk bowtie even if you're not wearing formal, have a long glass of champagne and recline back on leather sofa cause this iris gives you prestige! L'Attesa is a different iris compilation that pricks iris lovers' ears and draw a grin on face from ear to ear!

I was so disappointed by the samples I received this last months from a bunch of banal anonymous groups leading ultralarge size mercenary perfume business associations whom we typically call niche, that a group of cool people aiming on their ethical efforts in the industry kept me steady on the seat I'm sitting on. And one of them are people who run Masque. The Milan-based house of perfumery which has my utmost admiration for their former gems this time challenge my inferior lingual ability to describe my artistic inspirations, cause better than anyone, Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi know what is highly artistic is hardly inexpressible. And L'Attesa is such a perfume.

Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi

What makes L'Attesa bolder is its truly exceptional iris which Luca Maffei, the nose, brought forth with several iris root and absolute to give this silky sensitive babe of perfumery a Hercules'que strength while he maintains its classical-modern features. Iris is Kuh-i Nur of perfumery in price, and a selfish sensitive note that rejects many other ingredients, and Maffei has domesticated the root to cover it with oriental floral base. So this must be a very frustrating days and night for the team to finally conduct such an alloy out of raw materials.

Masque's iris plays an fancy game on skin. While iris is mostly known by its innocent and dreamy powdery effect, L'Attesa demonstrates a naughty and heady iris that immediately draws you in. It's pile of three different iris notes that is cocooned by an unusual effervescent accent that supposed to be champagne accord but it apparently is not. It's a musty sharp and spiky smell similar to aroma of beer foam and newly cut morus tree (mulberry). It has two facets: a yeasty smell, and an soapy alhehydic smell that immediately camouflages into composition. I first thought it must be aldehyde but looking closer I captured bergamot which smells soapy and astringent but what is that pseudo-animality reminding aldehyde? It is the iris compilation armed by beer note instead of bubbly filter of champagne accord! Once I was talking to a friend about why no one takes a look at smell of beer in perfume? It smells so intriguing and classic!

The beer, better to say the yeast, gives the iris a binary powdery facet all the way down from opening to base. Something phenolic (that I can't discover, it's like mimosa and angelica) and wild flowery and herbaceous is intimated within the yeast to set it luxurious as deserved for iris's prominent dignity.
The iris compilation, which is focal point of the fragrance, has a distinct manner. As I mentioned, it's not your modest wispy Belle Époque iris, it's melancholic, artistic, postmodern, and fashionable that opens doors to a new vista. A balmy creamy, telluric and extremely earthy iris embedded by peculiar musky leathery tones. Honestly, its earthiness was kind of strange to my nose before I learn there is a carrot seed in the composition which I swear I could not even dream about if I have not been told. It elaborately overlaps iris. What my nose doesn't get is the Indian stuff used in the base: tuberose, ylang ylang and sandalwood. I realized that my skin unusually amplifies iris to sun; lucky me! All I get is an premium unfiltered leathery iris that drives me insane while I'm not a fan of iris personally, and now I'm a bit embarrassed by how much I resist this note. It's a personal taste only. Furthermore, I have been surprised to see an iris that stubbornly lasts for a day without a slight decay in quality.

One fact I should add to my review. How much art and luxury can cooperate? We have uncountable examples of high-end fragrances, but not the same number of true artistic creations. Many are reinventing the wheel and follow settled big streams. Masque, nevertheless, has established a defensible idea of creation in which they bring the ultimate quality with most favorable tenacity of product without harm to its structure, all in an artistic framework. Masques iris may not be a luxurious item but it is truly artistic which I find much more valuable than "another brick in an already constructed wall".

Oh by the way, some bloggers mentioned Silver Iris Mist by Serge Lutens and Irisss by Xerjoff to resemble the main idea of L'Attesa. I strongly reject both claims, just try it and try them, you'll the results are only common in iris, not more.

Carpe Odor!

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