Friday, October 21, 2016

Spring with autumnal gloom: Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens

Photo by Guy Bourdin

This last days I re-racked a pile of homeless samples and gave them a new shelf and order. Meanwhile I came across some undiscovered fragrances, one of which is Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. I usually put few reviews between two reviews from one house unless a new release come at my door or an intriguing case tickle me to speak about, though briefly.

Bas de Soie is one of those Serge Lutens fragrances that shares a teasing sensation and a paradox in title with context. A tactile texture of silk stocking as the title suggests, is 180 degree in opposite to rustling impression of floral theme of the fragrance. For that it shares common feeling with dismal floral; De Profundis. Furthermore, although Bas de Soie possesses all the characteristics of a Lutensian fragrance, it makes me think that Lutens who frequently looks back to Moorish cultures for inspirations, put his efforts on this fragrance to set a new vista that barely happens in his profile; as I briefly indicated in prior review. Eventually, Bas de Soie sets apart from most of creations by the house and registers somewhere between oriental early works and European contemporary works with least oriental spirituality and strong performance.

Bas de Soie opens with an uncomfortable sensation that ornaments the top and it's what makes the fragrance an unusual iris/hyacinth gem for which I don't find it mere feminine to be written by women bloggers often, while men ashamedly reject trying it on skin.

Bas de Soie - unlike its title that indicates to dandelion quality of silk stockings - is a tangy floral fragrance that bears hefty amount of shrill hyacinth which itself is an aloof flower to communicate that displays unique powdery facets different to that of iris. Hyacinth here has an almond-muguet-rose-like personality that pierce with a metallic and telluric feature. Unlike many of bloggers who marked "metallic" for this fragrance I would prefer "telluric" for this opening that diffuses wet soil-like aspects.

Photo by Lupi Spuma

The hyacinth is brittle but austere. To smooth its powdery effect and matches it to musk and woody air, crystal iris is implemented, and galbanum brings about a chypre-leaning format to this sensual flower duet that eventually promises for a well-known Chanel No19 air in dry out. The iris, while is mostly referenced to Lutens' iris masterpiece - Iris Silver Mist - I find Bas de Soie almost irrelevant to that unless the name of iris in both pyramids. Iris in Bas de Soie is more soapy and rounded but not that powdery to emerge a sentimentalist powdery effect.

Bas de Soie, is not carnal, it is corporeal, tempting and illicit. A kind of conflict with self that makes the perfume linger between suspended definition of stockings as veil with religious identity or an erotic garment. Very decent and symmetrical, it's a lonesome floral fragrance that gives me a quirky feeling of being in crowd without being seen.
The fragrance has a very rational power and projection. Precisely measured empowered opening about three hours and then fluent creamy powdery dry down which is as smooth as removing stockings and rolling naked in bed under satin bed linen. Radiant sillage for first layer and skin-mate projection for sensual base. It's a frown Eva Green'ish poisonous floral fragrance.

Carpe Odor!

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