Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Wanderes in night: Veilleur de Nuit by Serge Lutens




Not only its taste but also chocolate's smell drives us wild. While there are not much cacao-optimized perfumes as much as jasmine or vetiver, the examples of successful cacao fragrances are abundant. The latest entry from French niche perfume house of Serge Lutens is another black and gold member of high-end Section d'Or collection that arrived just a few months ago, named Veilleur de Nuit. Fans of cacao fragrances who know how mind-blowing this elite collection is, now probably dig for this new arrival dark knight to give it a try but before you proceed check out without a test let me suggest you to read this page and think twice.


Veilleur de Nuit is introduced an oriental floral fragrance that includes cacao, dark chocolate, tuberose, castoreum, civet, musk, and vetiver. So I divide it into three separate strata to get into it precisely. An animalic curtain with a trio of notes, a floral side, and sweet side. Plus Borneo 1834, Veilleur de Nuit is the second cacao-dominant perfume by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens (Plus Santal Majuscule which contains cacao but not prominent).


Photo taken from lacocinadelossentidos.wordpress.com

The top explodes with subtle rusty cacao powder which has a unwieldy, soft smoldering warmth, and murky pharmaceutical facet. It's like superior Florentine cacao powder sieved on tiramisu. Yumm! Personally I have deep affinity with this kind of sweetness-bitterness conflict which results in a very balanced quality. The opening cacao has also a pale herbaceous dimension which quickly disappears within context and evolves in floral aspect that flattens cacao theme. I'm not sure if it's tuberose or not. It has a pseudo-indolic sweet and buttery carnality near to tuberose but it's more inclined to hedoine which chisels down a limpid and luminous jasmine vibe. Moreover, tuberose in Serge Lutens creations has a certain definition, specific olfactory characteristics and strength (reference: Tubéreuse Criminelle). So this most probably cannot be tuberose, but a jasmine.

While I was talking about the tuberose, the fragrance has settled in heart level and released a bulky amount of chocolate out. In this level the sweet notes tumble down on my skin to a worrying level cause I have never seen Serge Lutens perfumes slither this fast and naked from top to heart. What I get from cacao and chocolate's leftover is a spiky warm and shimmering incognito downy air reminiscent of lavender in YSL La Nuit de l'Homme. Then the floralcy phase opens, very soft and gentle yet penetrating and characteristic. I can see in its glimmering performance an upcoming animality but so faint, sooo faint. 

Honestly, I had high hopes over the bulky trio that formerly appeared in Muscs Koublaï Khân which is a mind-blowing animalic gem but I see castoreum, civet, and musk (plus something acrid leathery) together do nothing that strong to make a move. The second disappointing fact is I hoped so much to see chocolate and animalic society of dry down merge but the trio joined the party when top notes had already left it. All left from that top is a faint trace of cacao powder and when it comes to base level the result is a bit discomforting and a bit anxious for me. Musk appears fresh and clean while cacao aged down with frown face and gets swings around mood that I don't enjoy.

Therefore, Veilleur de Nuit opens with sweets, goes to ephemeral florals, and then displays very light hue of animality. The fragrance is in extrait density yet the tenacity is a real matter of concern, so as poor projection. However you can smell it on your body for very long but only and only if you hold your nostrils close to it. I take this not a worried part of design in the house of Serge Lutens as I have seen several other perfumes of the house with such weak power, but people count facts before they count money. The house of Serge Lutens for entire perfumistas is more than a typical perfumery. It is known for its convey and discovery in perfume art and for its distinct mindful and authentic vista through perfume and emotions. Nevertheless, the Section d'Or collection, from one angle seems to be Lutens' ultimate artistic tribute to perfume art, from another angle seems Lutens who have not been engaged with mercenary faux-Arabian trend of perfume, finally conceded and appeared in the trend by Section d'Or collection. Albeit, the oriental character of perfumes of this collection is debatable and no one can explain better than the press-resist house of Serge Lutens.

Carpe Odor!


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