Monday, November 14, 2016

Galop d'Hermès: a u-turn or a new nose for that old style?

Ralph Lauren 2012 campaign

Perhaps title of "the most surprising perfume of the year" should be granted to Galop d'Hermès which is not only a debatable fragrance but also a great u-turn in brand's portfolio. Consequently, the news about retiring Jean-Claude Ellena for fans of Hermès was as shocking as 2016 presidential election of the States for entire world! Obviously Ellena put great deal of effort to sign over the equestrian footprints elder perfumers has inscribed on Hermès' resumé. With minimalist, transparent, verdant and modest compositions, the monk of perfumery has enchanted many hearts (while I was never a fond of his works for Hermès) and entered the hall of most popular perfumers of last decades. Yet, Galop d'Hermès, is the first independent fragrance after separation of Ellena, made by his heir - Christine Nagel - who appeared in Hermès with her Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate. Now many eyes are awaited for her next move to encounter the path the brands will pass; even for me who doesn't put Hermès in priority, it's like the very moment before the trigger is pulled in a Russian roulette duel.

Galop d'Hermès unleashes with dazzling cute pinky rose that reminds me soothing fresh cocktails based on rosewater to chill out. It's watery, brittle, and soprano rose that screams like siren, beside a bright sour citrus accord that demonstrates akin feelings with some of Ellena's works. This gives me a clue that Hermès is controlling their path with a new nose, not a new style for Hermès, yet it is too early to conclude.
The syrupy fresh rose which submits for frenzy happiness of Diptyque L'Ombre Dans L'Eau is paralleled by a vegetal petroleum-like leathery dimensions which is present in Diptyque too. Soon, while the rose is so intrusive, it is upholstered by a screen of refined chamois leather that brings soft sweet suede-like features like newly creamed skin after shower. Galop d'Hermès is a duet of two accords: a citric fruity rose at one side and a fresh leathery saffron on the other side. And this duet sings very delicate and girly.

The fragrance has potent longevity and strong sillage in the first hours. It's rather feminine and barely masculine. Sensitive, casual, sentimental, kind of timeless retro/modern, teenage and energetic with sparking floral dimension. But what was the main debate topic in forums about this perfume is its 225 euro price tag which I actually find quite large for such simple fragrance!

Carpe Odor!

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