Monday, November 14, 2016

Quintessential fougère: Bracken Men by Amouage


Do you notice how Amouage is inclining to western genres? Do you like new Amouage? I do actually. I'm not a fond of savage Interlude Men or extremist smoky Fate Men but my eyes flashed like evil characters in cartoons for a bright future when I tried Amouage Sunshine Men, however, it is not mature enough to woo me but enough different from prior veins to move leery towards western moods. Bracken Men entirely surfs in vintage European - kind of English - authentic fougère atmosphere which the title actually indicates, for which I should confess I like Amouage more than when Gold, Epic and Memoir were stars of the house. For me those mammoth fuliginous and berserk incenses are smells that cannot be encapsulated in bottle to present a culture. Culture cannot be delivered in a flacon. But smart director of Amouage - Christopher Chong - draws the line into more favorable direction and surpasses. I think by this I'm the only one who loves Interlude with magnetic cap!

With such orthodox title, Amouage actually starts a flashback trip over all history of fougère and gets back to the ancestor of this variety: Houbigant Fougère Royale. While Bracken does not necessarily resemble the forefather of fern-ward perfumes, it has touch of ambry lavender of Caron Pour un Homme but not a hair-chested macho masculine lavender.

The top surges a distinct type of lavender with earthy fresh oily cypress (something between cypress and fir) and aquatic notes merged inside classic aftershave'ish sparkling citrus accord which continues till spicy accord leaps out and the fragrance smells like sun oil under hot swords of sun rays at a sand beach. Spicy side contains sensually warm and slightly delicious notes like cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, which are fully adaptable with a perfect touch of cedar and geranium to emerge a genteel masculinity. Certainly, this opulent presence of geranium does not leave the composition without a metallic boost.

Here is the bending point where Bracken folds and turns in flat warm lavender with woodsy base. The lavender is a classical one reminding haberdasher shops, but elaborately linked to contemporary spirituality. Specially when the woody base empowers and elevates lavender up. It's a blend of sandalwood, patchouli and cedar.

Packing up, Bracken Men is necessary fougère and gentlemen's essential. It's a dripping and damp lavender-optimizing woodsy fresh cologne with dandy and sporty attributions at once. Posh and poise with classy manner, moderate sillage and long skin-sitting longevity that might be unfit to prior Amouage works. Who cares!? I don't. I finally found my beloved Amouage! No kidding, this will be the first Amouage I own but I'm still double-minded cause the lavender's fade in and out which is like a optical illusion teases me. It's not steady while is prominent member of the play.

Carpe Odor!

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