Thursday, November 10, 2016

Rahele by Neela Vermeire: Does east truly meets west?


East as cradle of civilization has always been synonym of mystery for prior centuries' human. This might be the very reason to draw curious westerns to the ancient eastern lands for discovery which took centuries of traveling, frustrating routes and galaxies of expenses, by a result of which, today it is not a surprise to see hundreds of publishing in libraries prepared by those who once put their everything to encounter unseen and untold of the world in east. Neela Vermeire's latest release - Rahele - is homage to three French travelers (Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Francois Bernier and Jean Thevenot) who independently and individually find their path in India. Literally Rahele is an Arabic term meaning traveler woman (letter "e" at the end of the word indicated to femininity in Arabic).

Regardless to everything about this perfume, the juice itself is the very topic to discuss. First of all, this is not another authentic Indian composition like the prior creations. Nothing oriental about Rahele, nothing Indian. It's entirely western, or better to say it's east through eyes of a discoverer who writes about India at his house in London without even visiting India.
The fragrance begins with a quasi-rosy air that emerges from full-bodied osmanthus which swells till it reaches to a powdery lactonic fruity dimension reminiscent of ripe apricot. For about first one hour there is one main theme - osmanthus - and some minor plays that are outdid by it, so it gives me strong feminine signals.

Rahele removes first shell and displays velvety suede scent beside growing osmanthus, and develops with leathery accord. But it's not a masculine dark leather of contemporary trends, nor a chypre classic one. Let me say if Mitsouko EdP and Serge Lutens Daim Blond had a child she could be Rahele's leathery side. Why Mitsouko? Because of an oakmoss that hides behind tons of sweet floral theme and tries to keep the balance with semi-woody-chypre atmosphere, but I can't get spice on my skin while they are mentioned among notes.
There is something else to claim Rahele is not on main vein of Neela Vermeire's fragrances and it's its simplicity. While it's complete and fulfilled, I don't see Duchaufour's perplexing olfactory maze tease that he's registered in my mind with. Rahele lacks serious grade of comprehensiveness and kaleidoscopic play of layers of notes, it's an integrated whole of floral and leathery and spicy notes. 

Packing everything, Rahele is a floral woody and sweet leathery fragrance with dominant osmanthus. This is strictly out of my boundaries but if you like osmanthus you most probably praise this fragrance.


Carpe Odor!

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