Sunday, November 6, 2016

Three jewels from east by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Dawn has chosen the cutest roller samples vials this time!

There's always a feeling of discovery of unknown with creations of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes. Her creations are always intriguing and familiar, a paradoxical feature that barely happens in ordinary trends of perfumery. Dawn comes up with several releases of 2016 in her portfolio which I take three of them to review: Axis MundiSouvenir de Malmaison, Chinchilla. The main theme of the trio is on the same spirit; spicy, warm and sensual.
The one makes me rolled-eyes is Souvenir de Malmaison for its outrageous opening. For long time I have not known one single perfume to second alliaceous smell in beginning just the way Serge Lutens' wrath of cloves - Serge Noire - opens with onion-like top. Hard to communicate artistic behavior of Serge Noire is rendered by softer and warmer woody and spicy screens to reduce the furious cloves' effect. Souvenir de Malmaison opens with infinite spicy theme composed of bucketful of cloves and ambrosial cinnamon and a fine cedar that locates in the middle of orchestra scene like a dwarf genius concertmaster; little in size but giant in impact. More ambery and marine ambery rays shine in with the senescence of berserk cloves that is now enveloped by fluffy rose petals. To be honest, Souvenir de Malmaison stays somewhere between mystical witchcraft and hot sexuality; both.

No matter how enchanting Souvenir de Malmaison is, Axis Mundi, beside its intriguing title is a compilation of most unknown elements gathered by Magellan from bygone islands in his discovery cruise. The fragrance bursts out with a full-bodied volume of powdery woodsy and floral atmosphere. An iris? A genuine one. Leathery? Partially yes. Woodsy, resinous, animalic? Yes yes yes! Iris usually brings a class, a prestige and dignity to anything it touch with its fragile fingers, but in Axis Mundi iris registers for a philosophical earthiness and humble beauty that grows in powdery woodyness as it ages down till myrrh and resinous air replaces it.
Axis Mundi is like a galaxy summarized in a book, whole essence of knowledge thickened in a vial. More than beautiful, which indeed is, it's intriguing and trust-giving and wise.

Now let's talk about Chinchilla. Actually I skipped over the titles and the concepts behind these three gems, which I'm embarrassed about it but I should keep the post's length favorable; I'm a talkative guy! A classical Grasse-based blend of animalic notes and rose, tuned up with honey which itself calls for more animalic dimensions and kind of woodsy base. Honey in this project is the core of the fragrance though not the boldest note. Hurwitz implements a skanky musk with all its realistic features and sets it to be the main leader of Chinchilla and brings it a classic glamour with feminine charm. But in the region I grew up - Iran - this composition hardly sells a bottle. No kidding! Just pass around a shrine, a religious or sacred place where usually you find some cheap perfume shops with shelves loaded with small and big jars of oils, and you can find hundreds with few penny. Of course, none of those so-called attars can even reach Dawn's quality to an epsilon but this is what we call taste and cultural background which runs me to confess personally I do not like Chinchilla, no matter how long I have been separated from it, yet close my eyes and judge fairly, I can't deny its wonderful quality of smell and transparency of aromas of this beasty floral.

Carpe Odor!

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