Monday, November 14, 2016

Unusual leather: Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé


Yuri Gutsatz' legacy who founded the house perfumery of Le Jardin Retrouvé in 1975 is today followed by his son - Michel Gutsatz - and his wife who rejuvenated the traditional house and enlivened the formulas once again with new apparel. They introduce seven classical compositions based on most elaborate trends of past from different categories and my beloved one is always the leathery one: Cuir de Russie, an unusual leather and a different olfactory experience. 

Our default definition of Cuir de Russie - which is usually identified by Chanel's leathery iris - meets an end here and reassembles with a modern definition relying on orthodox compositions of past. Cuir de Russie begins with pungent cucumber-like verdant floral smell that we know well from Francis Kurkdjian's cucumber violet in Narciso Rodrigues For Him. Yet, our torrential cucumber smells feminine, fragile, fertile and telluric by touch of styrax and juniper wood. It's a distinct type of leather blend, if we could call it an usual leather. After a while the cucumbery scent settles down and what remains is a soft and tactile powdery effect merged in a dusty leather, reminiscent of classic Hermès Bel Ami's leather and dust. It gets more fancy as it develops in dry down. The base of Cuir de Russie meets an intriguing smell of ashtray with salty undertone. I was thinking if concept of Cuir de Russie fragrances was smell of woman who smokes cigarette, Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie is the most loyal one to the original idea with its ashtray smell, powdery woody and fresh musk and leather. It imitates a fancy woman in a luxury parlor smoking cigarette and its smoke sits on her fur accessories.

Cuir de Russie has prolonged tenacity on skin with medium projection but surprisingly it stays for long in room you spray it on. And more surprisingly it fits ambiance scent perfectly. Could also be a good home scent. This is a type of leather you should try, specially if you're a lady obsessed with vintage luxury and art deco furniture.

Carpe Odor!

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