Thursday, February 16, 2017

When I was a child goodness was a woman who smells cigarettes: Civet by Zoologist

Photo from

I write on the newest release of Zoologist long after its launch, that itself had been promised to fans earlier in late 2016. Since I'm the last to talk about Civet, I guess I have no space for chattering about this or that of the fragrance and should directly go to the impressions but this perfume is so forceful in emotions.

When my precious friend Victor Wong, shared news about an upcoming launch named Civet that is composed by renown American nose - Shelley Waddington, who formerly delivered poetic and delicate Hummingbird - my eyes glittered, as I'm an animalic lover, but at the same time I though Zoologist probably gets on a dangerous Alpine ridge cause civet musk is not kidding...
Civet musk is the most skanky animalic note ever with urinal and fecal smell, but surprisingly Zoologist's Civet immediately conjures up a retro air that takes me back to my childhood. Dusty back streets where an old man used to have a poor, dark and low-ceilinged grocery with practically no useful item for housewives of neighborhood, but lots of dirty snack and junk food for outlaw children like us. What a policy of merchant for a neighborhood full of children! I clearly remember my mom have banned fruit roll the old man sells, but who listens?! It takes me to the very first whiff each time I opened the plastic cover of fruit rolls and the very first illegal bite. Illegal always tastes delicious!

Travel size sprayers of Zoologist, photo by me
The fragrance opens topless (full-bodied without top notes) with vibrant aromatic waxy theme of sweet syrup, reminiscent of a classic chypre from mid-20th century. It's an oozy floral, fruit-like, gourmand, ambrosial and spicy composition, promising of a lush animalic core. Civet has least possible curtain off from A to Z. It's a linear fragrance with base presenting almost the same in top; however we all know there are some changes in vibrancy and opacity of notes.
Gradually floral army (specially ylang yang and fleshy tuberose) settle and coffee and moss show up but not in a clear manner like in a quintessential chypre. They seems to weave in and out of floral surface to form a modern vintage air. And what encapsulates all the elements is a heavy shade of civet musk without emphasizing on its animality, to just give an erotic chypre boost and guarantee enormous tenacity.

Allow me to not continue with notes, I'm not a good detective. Civet is a lush animalic fragrance which I hesitate to call a mere animalic. It's a comprehensive concoction with adult erotic inclinations, and by far the most artisanal member of Zoologist, though not the best release from the house, imho. Shelley Waddington brings a classic chypre air up that has not been maintained in a time capsule from past to today. Civet is the necessary remedy for today's loss of identity and hunger for authenticity. In the era when every single retro phenomenon is diluted for the sake of nothing, works like MAAI and Civet are the savior of grandeur of our unforgettable past.

At the end a galaxy of thanks to Farbod, whose words opened locked doors in my head!

Carpe Odor!

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