Wednesday, March 1, 2017

A bouquete of hearts: Le Parfum de Thérèse by Frédéric Malle

Edmund Roudnitska, source:

This last months I was encountering timeless classics and in my discovery I searched for roots and masters of perfumery which took me to a name many paths ends to: Edmond Roudnitska - an influential name reminding of tens of great classics of all times like Eau Sauvage and Diorissimo, Eau d'Hermès, Eau Rochas and Mustache. Also a name who delivered talented and brilliant artists of their own time like Mona di Orio and, master's son Michel Roudnitska. Hats off!
The perfume I'm talking about is maestro's bespoke for his wife - Thérèse - composed in 1950's (or 60's, not sure about the exact date) which after master's death in 1996, in a deal with Frédéric Malle and master's son and wife, under circumstance of acknowledging real creator's name on bottle, has been exhibited to public under Editions de Parfum. It's an exquisite work of art with quite an emotional attachment and developed techniques of perfumery behind it. Le Parfum de Thérèse is indeed a fragrance much ahead of its time, that, still today, it considered a contemporary scent. It's a true masterpiece that epitomize on timeless classics and reminds me famous quote of Yves Saint Laurent: "Fashions fade, style is eternal."

The fragrance is a chypre fruity with juicy sweet mandarin and watery melon top that delivers murmured camphorous boost and immediately promises of a lush floral heart. In a way this melon stays apart from that of iconic Carnal Flower. It's more close to cantaloupe which is an inseparable part of our summer diet in my homeland; Iran. A coriander/peppery curtain shifts fruity path and gives way to floral heart where a fleshy rose allies with dominant green earthy violet, a truly indolic jasmine, and dark exotic plum that amplifies fruity side of chypre. What a chypre, what a chypre! Magnificent masterpiece!
Dark shades of base notes - leather, earthy vetiver and pure woodsy cedar - lessen indolic aspects of jasmine and chamfer the composition's angular edges. What remains is a supreme timeless classic that is still a contemporary fragrance.

Le Parfum de Thérèse, though introduced to public, still gives me strong feeling of a bespoke with so many emotional stories behind, for that I feel hard to wear it personally. I have bad obsession with not wearing perfumes of others. But at the same time it signifies how identical and signature-like the fragrance is. Enormous longevity and medium sillage is other aspects of this masterpiece, if you care about it beside ultimate quality of the juice.

Carpe Odor!

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