Saturday, March 4, 2017

A fairy tale of nature and memory: Pahodka by YS UZAC

Franz Dvořák, title unknown, 1910

While Switzerland hosts most of fragrance ingredient labs, its perfume houses, instead of few, are mainly undiscovered. YS-Uzac is one of them. Recently I received a sample of their 2011 aromatic leathery composition; Pohadka; that impressed me to write down on this infamous composition.

Pahodka is a green leathery and slightly sweet fragrance from Prêt-à-Porter collection released in 2011 that Vincent Micotti (the nose) takes impression for a Swiss landscape at Lavaux's vineyards over the Geneva Lake. Interesting is that I knew Switzerland a cold climate but the warmth of composition and a brief image search of the location show I was wrong.
The title is borrowed from a piano/cello chamber composition from Leoš Janáček named Pohádka. A modern Czech duet based on impressions of Moravian folk music with a Russian accent and paste of dream and surrealism to it.

Just like the way duet begins with an uncertain emotion and nostalgia, the fragrance unleashes with an active aromatic green assault of cold wild herbs and gummy sweetness, much warmer and potent than what Switzerland brings to my mind. Shiso leaves and davana and grassy notes that play like anger on cute face, give me poetic sadness of piano. This sexy anger rapidly calms down and verges towards sweet spiciness of immortelle, vanilla, labdanum and sort of licorice-like twist.

Amber-like side of labdanum and strong immortelle deliver a genuine suede render and conjure up a faint hint of Histoires de Parfums 1740 which awkwardly I have never been ready to talk about it in my blog. But if immortelle of 1740 brings erotic and sinister side of leather up, that of Pahodka gives birth to tobacco, near to hay and tobacco love in Serge Lutens' outrageous Chergui, yet it doesn't get that ripe and stays dissonant like something is not done completely.

Pohadka is a herbal tobacco with least added flavor, kind of leathery near to that in leather series of Memo Paris, and light green leafy near to simplistic The Different Company's De Bachmakov. But what makes me iffy about it is warm sweet play of vanilla in the base that spoils leathery side and gives an unrehearsed render. It has a nice play on skin though, with fair enough longevity and mediocre sillage which I personally don't care. I like it, but only like it.

Carpe Odor!

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