Friday, March 10, 2017

Exquisite leather, Part IV: Black №1 by House of Matriarch


Being in exactly 180° away from where artisan perfumery clusters, I always feel marooned when the topic comes to this trend of fragrance world. Therefore, when a dear friend of mine gave me a tiny sample of Blackbird (currently named Black 1, with the same formula and new bottle) I seized it with several tests to write my review that lasted one year in overall!
This is my second tested perfume from House of Matriarch after Fitnessence, so I have no clear vista from Christi Meshell's works and scentscape but her Black 1 is a perfume which I can't skip over without jotting down my impressions, and simultaneously challenges me, cause it's a polygonal perfume with too many dimensions and facets, and I'm so fond of geometry! Instead of counting ingredients one by one - which I still don't understand why and how some bloggers get attached to - I prefer a whole impression with three four main notes, and leave the details of issue to my reader to discover.

The nose of House of Matriarch - Christi Meshell

High-end perfume houses (like Tom Ford or Bond No 9, to give a name) deliver an uptown extravagant mood with a great schism apart from mainstream fragrances and ordinary neighborhood life. Artisans, on the other hand, cut us off from our metropolitan life and bring us back to rediscover ourselves in nature and encounter our forgotten senses. While in general House of Matriarch is an artisan house of perfume, I find Black 1 separated from other artisanal creations, not because the comprehensive composition but also, and mainly, because it immediately delivers a sense of opulence which I have never seen in artisans. It's a juxtaposition of artisanal art of perfumery with luxurious high-end ideas. Does that add or remove something? I don't know. Leather is the element of wealth and luxury and it plays so kinky in this concoction.

Now, the fragrance uncorks with austere algae, earthy fungal greenness and balsamic coniferous vibe. This apothecal sombre green top (a bold signature of nature) is allied with a searing and encompassing leather with tarnished clinquant render, which veers to woodsy heart where strange twist of incense-like herbs is redolent of head shop logic of cannabis and oud/resin of Black Afgano but stays apart from that iconic creation. Yet oud and smoky greenness gradually step aside and give way to an exquisite luxury - a dark, kinky, and fetishist smooth polished material devoted to a filthy carnality! And it's damn so sexy. To evaluate the leather, you can find the same quality of carnality in leathers of Parfums MDCI Cuir Garamante, Puredistance M and Black.

The dry down meets a curvy lewd musk and woody amber that in a way reminds me of Tom Ford's discontinued treasure: Japon Noir. It's pseudo fruity, musky, animalic, earthy and warm woody with soothing touch of smoky leather.
In overall, Black 1 is a discernible sexy leather fortified with strong woody, musky and herbal air. A very complicated composition far away from what artisans mainly obsess with. Is it a simple fragrance? Not at all, leather has potentials of invoking an extravagant vibe and indeed does. The fragrance has astonishing tenacity and low sillage that triggers with body heat (a treat inherited from natural perfumes again) that in fact satisfies me. Meshell could go on with only this perfume. It's quite enough to get famous! Splendid.

Carpe Odor!

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