Sunday, March 26, 2017

Green is the color: Les Extraits Vert by Tom Ford

The exclusive line of Tom Ford fragrances - Private Blend - introduces four new fragrances in a collection named Les Extraits Vert which three of them are here to introduce - sadly my sample of Vert de Fleur smashed and I couldn't attend for another one. Greens are emblem of 70's which fragrances remarkably stamped on a brilliant era, nevertheless they now are simply called oldies. Tom Ford with this verdant collection opens a case I've closed years ago, now have to reopen the case; my pleasure. Greed fragrances, no matter how far I got from today, are a part of me. Specially I always seize a brutal avuncular green fougère from 70's and 80's in my collection.

To be honest I am not a fan of Private Blend instead of few ones which some of them are discontinued (Japon Noir has a special sit in my heart) but it doesn't come to mean I neglect Ford's leading role in fashion and fine fragrance. The genius of fashion is obviously establishing a kingdom in fragrance industry as he put his name in bold font in fashion, and Les Extraits Vert is his tribute to old class aromatic greens of 70's and 80's without regenerating their brutal and classic features. Les Extraits Vert, in other words, is a replica of venerable greens of past in contemporary accent.

Vert d'Encens is a raw green opener which has the same worried green aspects of its ancestors. Opens with herbal and grassy floral aspects mixed with soft creamy terpenic resinous air. It's a marshy greenness dried under reign of balsamic notes of incense and coniferous base that hints for a comfortable churchy ambiance and resinous air. While the opening offers a flash memoir of 70's metropolitan Tarzans and macho mossy greens of the era (Halston 1-12 to give a clue), dry down gives me an impression of something more inclined to atmosphere perfume rather to be a body fragrance; just the way incense in church is. Core of Vert d'Encens proclaims flat and simple aldehydic incense (that veers to Comme des Garçons' Encens series) plus fresh coniferous balsamic aspects that brings an inkling of cleanness.

Vert Bohème is more promising and elite, and on the other hand less Tom Fordian, compared to the other two. It's white floral green, that directly targets galbanum-optimizing gems of 70's like Jacomo Silences and Hermès Amazone with profound creamy earthiness and brittle gardenia. The difference with 70's icons is weightless floral patch that keeps it modern and apart from old-class.
It opens floral fresh, so powdery, earthy and juicy orange with bold leafy green violet allied with an impure animalic galbanum. A touch of powdery white magnolia and honeysuckle renders verdant animality of top and gives it a flirtatious feminine twist. It looks like someone's trying to replicate Hermès Elixir des Merveilles.

Vert des Bois, apart from the two others, is more loyal to its fountain. It's a classic green and sour vegetal opener that stays near to green colognes of past, nevertheless, not without a touch of Tom Ford identity. Opens intriguing and fresh green in a hot heart with coarse and unpolished woody aroma, allied with leafy spicy and spiky yeasty aura. Even the ambry and earthy warm woody base cannot cool down the volume of greenness of top. Seems Tom Ford adds to his Italian Cypress which itself is a Tom Ford'ish Halsotn Z14.

In a general perspective, Tom Ford's green collection is admirable retro design in the time no one would look back to brutal greens of past. Yet, the compositions are mainly set on modern basements. Better to say on Tom Ford olfactory accent in unity with other members of Private Blend. Another fact about this collection, I can't still count them fine fragrance. They veer more to ambiance and candle smells than personal perfume.

Carpe Odor!

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