Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Mon gourmand: pros and cons of Mon Guerlain

Photo taken from Guerlain.com

While I was thinking how lucky I am for having dear friends who support me with newly-released perfumes, unexpectedly I saw Mon Guerlain in Turkish market just a week after its launch in France! It is a weird condition because many perfumes appear over a year after their official launch (to give clear instance, Chanel Boy is not introduced yet). Guerlain is not an exception and its fragrances usually retard to sit on shelves, and this is the first thing that catches my eye. What is wrong or right with this news pinky that Guerlain insists to have it introduces globally immediately?
The new fragrance of the monarch of perfumery is represented by famous Hollywood actress and humanitarian activist, Angelina Jolie, and the payment of this ad campaign is told to be dedicated to charities. This is the second fact comes to mind. Jolie has a leading role in many aspects even out her own areas of concern, and as a successful woman is often reckoned a role model for many women and girls. I don't remember the last time Guerlain collaborated with a famous portrait to front a fragrance but seems Jolie's involvement symbolizes feminine power. And this collaboration presumably should have costed a fortune for Guerlain; which I'm pretty sure accountants of No. 68 Champs-Élysées know how to make benefit out of it! Haste on global launch is just a simple clue.

Photo taken from Guerlain.com

Mon Guerlain is a feminine fragrance that lays somewhere between an oriental vanilla and oriental woody with fresh gourmand and fougère accents. The fragrance unleashes with sort of masculine aromatic lavender and soothing bergamot, baptized with unknown vibrant sweet fruity floral thing that turns tousled lavender and citrus into feminine buzz. It's like a fresh lemonade which ice is melted under summer heat and the juice is warmed and sugared up like candy.

Le Couvent des Minimes Eau des Missions
The following is a composition of weightless floral heart plus a maquillage powdery iris. Jasmine and rose are merged into iris and powdery realm begins but all these elements are subdued to a lush sweet base where vanilla takes hegemony to sandalwood and coumarin (and most probably almond). This base gives me a hint of famous Eau des Missions by Le Couvent des Minimes plus a soft touch of Sambac jasmine and powdery rose and iris. Pale spear of tonka bean could bring a bold fougère feature if it would appear when lavender was a prominent portrait, but they are separated and this is how a masculine side is cut off in this fragrance.

To talk about gourmand side of Mon Guerlain is to talk about vanilla, sandalwood and tonka bean. The base of this fragrance is the very part of a rocket that reaches a planet and the other elements are left in space. Base takes the entire space and the top notes gradually dispatch. Dry down is a strong play of a renown feminine smell abundantly repeated in many other mainstream perfumes from mediocre to top sellers. Is this a reason why Mon Guerlain has taken many negatives feedback? This gourmand side, back to the topic, is an implicit take of vanilla walking of its ridge to not exceed over boundaries of luxury. Cause other side of ridge there's a gnarly pot of oozy juicy sweets where stays Thierry Mugler Angle and so many prominent gourmands. It's a gourmand and not, it's a vanilla-optimizing with prominent coumarin and lavender features - without a decent fougère personality - plus sandalwood and dizzy play of white musk that keeps it apart from gourmand ambiance.

The scent, in overall, is young and mass pleasing. It's a springy sweet vanilla fragrance, a conservative gourmand and a generic in type of smell, anyhow it is fine. Much better that many of this class but not a true Guerlian, at least I bet I'm not the only one who shares the same idea. Mon Guerlain, in first impression, is a simple fragrance tending to glitter like a forty-lamped chandelier but it's simple and simplicity always win public's heart. At the same time it's a fragrance that cannot fit a certain category and this seemingly is new policy of mainstream perfume industry to keep consumers.

Anyhow, longevity and sillage are strong enough to not care about lack of personality of scent. In a longshut overview from Jicky and Derby to Mon Guerlain and Ideal Sport, we are witnessing fall of a great heritage of past.

Carpe Odor!

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