Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Your daily dose of spring fragrances: an overview on versatile vetivers

Artist unknown, source: Tumblr.com

Spring already began, everywhere trees are blooming. The planet renews and smells of air change. Woods smell brittle like fresh flowers and promise of juicy yummy fruits of summer. What can be more delightful than a versatile, wearable musky vetiver with earthy floral nuances? In this post I just randomly come up to name some of those fragrances I like the most whenever I'm not sure what to wear to be casually chic: Diptyque Vetyverio, Medittorosa Nettuno, Ormond Jayne Zizan, The Different Company Sel de Vétiver, and last but not least, L'Occitane en Provence Eau de Vetyver.


First let's check Diptyque. It's been three days I'm wearing this perfume over two sprayer samples and I should confess this is quite good though it's not my cup of tea usually. Vetyverio begins with a fresh sparkling grapefruit aligned with sweet juicy mandarin and zesty lemon and bergamot. It's a very light and airy top which citrus accord is mixed with camphorous geranium and soprano metallic musky rose that registers for both genders. A soft touch of spices and ylang ylang bring vetiver and cedarwood up. This is a classic duet of woody earthy notes that is modernized, lightened and blurred by the play of white musk and pamplemousse-like grapefruit that looks like to be made by Jean-Clade Ellena. Vetiver in this composition is like to be a combination of more than single vetiver. It has a fresh earthy coldness as well as floral and warmer woodiness. Vetyverio is a vetiver-oriented fragrance with soapy citrus accent, and floral green base. Very appropriate for this time of year, specially for ladies who don't put florals in priority of their shopping list. It's woody, musky, soapy floral, and light green like a sparrow's sound in early spring morning. I can't say it's a good one in sillage but it stays quite enough on skin.


Next stop, seashore, sound of waves on sand, round pebbles move by current of water that make a harmony of lullaby where you can rest your head for a while and enjoy late spring sun. The smell of sun crystallized on your skin is a saline track that is impression source in this fragrance. Sel de Vétiver displays a springy warm fresh spicy aura, and salty woodiness with slight delicious twist. A gentle touch of cardamon, ginger and grapefruit plus geranium, invites an intriguing woody aquatic phase composed of powdery iris, salty notes and tropical vetiver accord that appears loose, warm and skin-friendly. But the spicy air occupies vetiver and it murmurs on skin after a while. It seems to be a common disadvantage of perfumes of this house that they immediately doom to fade away of demolish on skin. Though I personally don't really care if a juice gives me an hour of olfactory orgasm! Sel de Vétiver does and it's like the earth itself is blooming with roots. Clean floral vetiver with soft spicy render.


Surprisingly Zizan has gained many negative feedback from professional bloggers. I'm not here to defense it, though it has some considerable weakpoints but I just skip over them and see the scent through customer-optimizing sight, dedicated to its functionality. Zizan is an active fresh spicy woody fragrance named masculine but is totally wearable for women as well. It opens with hefty amount of hesperidic lime and bergamot, mingled with vibrant pink pepper that projects strongly. I was thinking that Zizan is like a polished edition of Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Extrême 1984 made by Geza Schoen, that I noticed he truly made the fragrance! Bad or good (apart from biased ideas against Schoen) Zizan is a Swiss knife; it's wearable, handy, and simply nice with a generic spring summer smell similar to some items of department store in niche class. The base of Zizan exhibits a fresh earthy and semi-soapy vetiver/cedar combo, abundantly injected with Iso E Super. This is what makes a masculine fragrance a hit. Vetiver bursts woody identity that is quite fit with sharp lime. And lime! I am surprised with its steady play from top to base. The last time I have seen such enormous citrus was Xerjoff Nio's diehard bergamot and 01 06 Lime Absolue by Fragrance Republic that is closed now.


Nettuno is somehow different to the other members of this review. It is launched in 2016 under name of Mendittorosa but currently is under another name - Talismans Collezione Preziosa - which I know nothing about it but seems to be an in-house division. Nettuno's main identity is its soothing freezy iris. Well I would like to call it "hovering in space in an infinite tranquilizing absolution". It's like being happily lost somewhere between remote planets where sound and gravity are useless facts of physics. A soapy, shampoo'ish iris and white musk with soft fluffy animality and fluent spicy curtain is the majority of Nettuno. But the base of fragrance has more dimensions with a soft poetic leather and woody resinous air that is hardly warm like sun in Antartica's summer. In a way carrot seeds, musk and iris gives me an akin impression to Serge Luten's reference iris: Silver Iris Mist. Where is vetiver? Ok, the vetiver is generally subdued to iris and musk but a woody earthy play in base of this celestial duet acts like bass guitar in a rock band without which rock music has no depth. Nettuno is a daily iris, a wearable, stylish, arty and versatile musky iris that, in my humble opinion, veers more to feminine side than masculine. Longevity is fair to cover half a day, and projection is so so. Not strong in sillage.


Now the list comes to an interesting point where a really precious item lies with low price. Last year I was confused to pick a vetiver for spring between Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire, Chanel Sycomore, and some others but Error 404: money is not found! So I postponed them all and randomly looked for a cheaper vetiver that found Eau de Vetyver (aka Vetyver). It's a warm herbal delicious leathery vetiver based on the same classical duet of vetiver and cedar, muffled with nutmeg, ginger and lemony zest. It also has a hint of woody leathery aura that gives it a modest chicness, no bargain! L'Occitane Vetyver is a decent, dapper, versatile springy (let me say four season) perfume with sweet spicy, seamless leathery, modern cute woodsy character. In a way it's a simple and minimal fragrance that works much greater that its name, its composition and even the price you pay. So it's a true win-win fragrance. By the way, it's masculine.

In any word, vetiver is one of the most versatile notes of perfumery with more inclination to masculine realm but there are noble feminine vetivers available to break this taboo. The root, in any variety, can make your day, in summer, or winter, in night or day.

Carpe Odor!

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