Friday, April 28, 2017

Swiss knife iris: Iris de Nuit by James Heeley

Ogata Kōrin, Irises at Yatsuhashi, 1709
Spring has already scattered her curtain of silk all over trees of northern hemisphere and you feel it wholly with blossoms and fresh smells in air. What can cheer up a springy day like a decent seamless iris fragrance with powdery and earthy dimensions?!
Iris de Nuit by French house of design and perfume, James Heeley, is one of the most all-purpose iris fragrances I've come across. First of all I should unveil a misguiding play of words in title of the fragrance. Despite of the title that indicates on iris to be the prominent note of composition, the fragrance spins around violets and keeps iris in second stage. Even in the very base musky nuances wave greater than iris. Another paradox is about the word Nuit which means night in French; thereby, Iris de Nuit means iris of night. This is while the fragrance exhibits glassy and sheer bright features that hardly fits a nocturnal mood. It's totally a daytime scent.

The scent, on the other hand, is floral, green, wet soil, astringent and woody musky. Opens with tonic sparkling, bitter, and fresh floral green theme composed of a deadly trio to die for: angelica, violets and iris. This gives an instant boost of pure class and arty casual style with bitter, earthy and strongly powdery features. The powdery side has a clear maquillage powdery smell that reminds me Xerjoff Marquee. This also is the main theme of Iris de Nuit till the end where fragrance meets clean spiky cedarwood and sheer musk that palely smells like a newly bathed skin. This delivers a comfortable sensitivity to vibrant floral top.

To talk a little about details, there's a carrot seed in top that charges iris with telluric hints which ultimately gets iris closer to violet and angelica. There is also soft amber, dry woody shade that pairs with cedar which plays here astonishingly.


To wrap it all, Iris de Nuit, regardless to everything that influence judgement for $180 price tag, is a very comfortable green springy fragrance. A multi-purpose or let's say Swiss knife powdery earthy fragrance that covers t-shirts to tuxedos, female to male. It's young, bright, sharp, edged, long lasting and vibrant and quite fit for comfortable life and minimal architecture.

Carpe Odor!

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