Sunday, April 2, 2017

Wild at heart: Purple Heart v.5 by Map of the Heart


Appeared in 2014 on perfume databases, Australian perfume house of Map of the Heart, it immediately caught public interest not only by interesting list of ingredients but also, and even more than every other aspect, by their unusual and quaint heart-shaped bottles. But policy of rarity and few stockists (they are actually numerous, specially in Italy, but restricted to Europe and few other regions) keep them rather unveiled.
Influenced by medal of purple heart which is given in return of act of valour and bravery in war, the house's latest release - Purple Heart - is a feminine fragrance delivered by Jacques Huclier (the architect of great masculine gourmand, Theirry Mugler A*Men) in 2016.

The opening of Purple Heart showcases chiaroscuro highlight of notes and immediately takes curiosity level to infinity, reminding me earthy features of Serge Lutens De Profundis and Bas de Soir, and some works of Mona di Orio. With prominent touch of telluric soil - wet and charged with wrath of thunders - mingled with a sumptuous floral plum, it displays sharp contrast of light and dark, near to expressionism light in cinema*. Cherry, in this fragrance is totally loyal to its natural smell: astringent, softly effervescent, musty and wine-like just the way it appears in SHL777 Qom Chilom.

SHL777 Qom Chilom, Photo taken by Roberto Greco

The cherry is the very element responsible for darker heart where vibrant violet, saline licorice, and purple ink bestow a corrugated edge to dark floral fruity top. Violet and licorice bring both classy European (better to Lutensian) feeling, and a vernacular Australian wilderness that is intensified by smoky animalic feature of ink. This accord handles both floral side (feminine powdery rose) and petroleum-like soil side, in immense measure.

Image provided by the house

I am fond of the ink and its storytelling aura. It's like someone's writing a story with quill and ink on a pack of paper, while I'm talking about this perfume. Ink not only duplicates saltiness of licorice, but also donates an intriguing animality to woodsy base, where soft touch of vanilla and tonka bean align with dry sandalwood and form a smoky amber dry down.

Wrapping the topic, In an ironic way you can say Purple Heart is a reverse fragrance that opens with heavy boost of darkness and settles in soothing smoky woody amber. Purple Heart is a sweet woody fragrance with immense earthy floral mood and dark synthetic renders. An intriguing and distinct experience in feminine realm. I don't underline femininit, but it greatly inclines to that side. Great, very great longevity and more than average sillage. It's a springy and autumnal fragrance when weather is mellow and fresh, not so cold not so warm.

Carpe Odor!
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* Cin City movie is a nice example for darkness and lightness paradox in cinema.
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