Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Chic and luxury: La Belle Hélène by Parfums MDCI

Chic or luxurious, this is not the question, this is the obsession. Two infinite obsessions with definitions near to each other. For me, general speaking, chic is intellectual, arty, and profoundly weird without making incommodity. It better not to be quintessential and conventional, nor aspirational. Like Picasso or Pollock, or even Keith Haring. They are artistic, or at least they surely were at their own time before they hyped. Art is what thrills you, what disturbs your ordinary mood and makes you out of yourself to look to things in a different view. Shocks you. Chic is charming, like a different style of dressing, an exotic taste, an unfamiliar music.
Luxury, on the other hand, is settled, archetypal and related to comfort, wealth and dainty like saunter with high heels on!

If Claude Marchal - the director and manager of Parfums MDCI - lived in 18th century, he would have been one of the most brilliant portraits in perfume history and today we would discuss on MDCI creations in early Baccarat flacons. Marchal has spent a life-long in perfume industry and dig all the ways of this trend until he finally established his independent fragrance house. Yes, Parfums MDCI is an indie house of fragrance (re-read this last sentence if you still think indie is synonym of amateur). He worked with the most endorsed maestros with delicacy and architectural obsessions to deliver the finest timeless classics. I also underline the last two words of last sentence: timeless classics. Common feature of all MDCI fragrances is they can be worn back in 1800 till 2080. Another common attribution is their interrelationship with both luxury and chicness.

La Belle Hélène is juxtaposition and completion of two sides of beauty to reach an absolution. It is as ornately flamboyant and arty as is cult and crowd-pleasing. The juice is named after a 19th century opera composed by Jacques Offenbach. Bertrand Duchaufour, the nose behind this fragrance, created it is 2011 and it's his first chypre fruity for the house. (He later created Chypre Palatin) Duchaufour is one of most admired noses for his ability to twist gourmand without overexposing deliciousness. He sets artistic side of perfumery into classic methods and the result is nitro fuel! He mix of ingredients in a way to make you feel you have their name on tip of your tongue but can't exactly name them, is also a very interesting score. Like all his creations La Belle Hélène is a match of familiar scents and odd feelings. Therefore, I'm not going to explain the scent from alpha to omega.

In one sentence, La Belle Hélène is sister of Yves Saint Laurent M7. Same oriental, muted and cough syrup thing plays with a sublime fruit combo to conjure up an otherworldly aura. They appear almost shampoo'ish, effervescent, gauzy and somehow unyummy. In core of the juice sits osmanthus (and apricot maybe) and tangerine, amplified by a sepia floral chypre accord composed of rose, iris, and violet, and a colossal woody resinous amber. The result of such blend is a comfortable opulent fruity top and oriental chypre base, overlapped in a perfect syzygy to evoke both carnality and sense of trust. It's young, full of energy but calm and gentle. Let me summarize here: La Belle Hélène is sexy as Louboutin and comfortable as Todd's. In other words it's olfactory equivalence of Charlize Theron. A fragrance that demonstrates arty weird and sumptuous vibes.

Carpe Odor!

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