Monday, June 19, 2017

From palaces with love: an overview on Parfum d'Empire

Parfum d'Empire is a French niche house of exquisite fragrances which have been established in 2003 by creative director and nose Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The inspiration source behind creations of this house is ancient empires and olfactory attribution of each depending on their cultures and available materials in their territories, to emerge an illusion of the past's glamour. In this post I shortly review few of their feminine works.
Osmanthus Interdite is a tribute to Chinese empire and emblematic Asian flower: osmanthus. Osmanthus' multi-faceted characteristics that cover aroma of tea, hay, apricot and suede makes it a chameleon and a solid fragrance by itself. Osmanthus Interdite opens with a pungent aromatic camphorous and heady air that evokes a familiar smell from my remote past when my grandma used to pack winter carpets, curtains, clothes and blankets and other amenities in attic to prepare home with summer facilities. The dark varnished opening settles and an opulent floral patch composed of rose and Arabian jasmine ornament it, in harmony with a lush leathery aftermath. A shade of green with zest of ripe, overly-sunbathed apricots and soft suede hint - that enlarges in time in dry down - is the next layer. Dry down of Osmanthus Interdite is a sumptuous play of fully ripe and realistic osmanthus plus briny bright musk and soft suede render that reminds me leather of Cuir Ottoman, suede in Daim Blond, and ambergris in Guerlain Ambre Éternel. It's splendid and provocative in performance on feminine skin, mellow and enveloping in sillage and strong in tenacity with least possible change on smell.

Eau Sauve shocked me not for its scent - since I usually wear odd fragrances - but in gender classification that the house introduced it as a feminine fragrance. A sauvage (not sauve) masculine aromatic floral with sharp botanic chypre core. A massive - and at the same level not oriental - rose, armed to teeth with peppers and berries, paired with an edgy chypre accord of oakmoss and patchouli, is the main theme of Eau Sauve. This fragrance is a sibling of Emanuel Ungaro Pour l'Homme III. Same criminal rose, same macho romantic love, same dandy aromatic weather. If Emanuel Ungaro produced Pour l'Homme III a decade ago in 80's it most probably would be something today Marc-Antoine Corticchiato named Eau Sauve. It's old fashion, chypre in blood, colossal in personality, strong in performance, archetypal example of grandeur of a certain era of art: art deco. It's a quintessential spicy chypre.

You feel the very succulent smell of early morning tuberose pods with their stems, and also mint, geranium and mesmerizing jasmine (that I only faced such loyal jasmine two times in my life: Serge Lutens Sarrians and Nicolas de Barry Casanova) that decreases tuberose's kinky animality and indolic nuances. 3 Fleurs is simply gorgeous and wearable fragrance for different group of women from different ages. And it turns more gorgeous after rose and ylang ylang join the club. The fragrance becomes an astonishing mentholated and green tuberose, bolstered by rose and ylang ylang. A poetic floral, oriental but not warm, quite fancy and simple in context but heavy in impressions. A true simple floral, no fat no bone! It's a strong fragrance in tenacity on skin, steady and ongoing with great sillage.

Intriguing and appetizing intro of Equistrius gives it an instant embracing aura that usually happens in dry down of gourmand fragrances. But deliciousness of chocolate paired with rice - which itself emerges a tender and cozy cuisine mood in aroma - subtly suggests a tantalizing picturesque of something gustatory without overly exposed on its zesty vertices. It also weaves delicious theme with opulence of talcum powder of Iris to reflect ancient Roman empire entirely devoted to pleasure and divine beauty. Equistrius is a fine feminine fragrance that exhibits womanly power and elegance of femininity with warm, tempting and woody base. It gives the same hint of suede as appeared in Osmanthus Interdite and Cuir Ottoman.

Carpe Odor!

No comments: