Saturday, July 15, 2017

Walls of serenity: En Passant by Frederic Malle

I have been living in Ankara since 2010. A soulless city with concrete buildings and no nature nor water. But if you ask what in this city makes me excited the most I immediately reply scent of lilacs bushes in May. Hanging violet clusters of tiny flower form canopies on tip of their fragile stems. A heavy spring rain gives its scent a dusky face and mixing with smell of soil after rain, lilacs depict a cute sweetness with gray-shaded render that I cannot pass by without breathing it all the way in. En Passant made in 2000 by maestro perfumery Olivia Giacobetti - I should kiss her nose one day - is a rare example of lilac smell in perfumery and also a rare example of post-rain soil. (Not exactly smell of petrichor)
En Passant is a soliflore and not. It's demonstrates a perfect accord of lilac while you absolutely capture more dimensions and layers when you dive into it. The fragrance raves with a blast of ozonic and floral main theme with aquatic and transparent quality. In a way it remotely reminds me another floral aquatic I tried last summer: Oriza L. Legrand Villa Lympia.

En Passant's top layer transfers, gradually, into an oceanic aura with cucumber and a crisp watery smell that is implemented merely to cool down sweetness of lilac accord. The result is a natural lilac image as real as in rainy gardens and as natural as it doesn't come in verbal explanations. It's ultimate beauty by all means.

Now what remains is pros and cons of the scent. En Passant is truest lilac ever (even Amouage's strong reference Lilac Love could not accomplish Malle's decent capture), no doubt, but it also means that the scent gets far from abstract aspects - although lilacs are not naturally used in perfumery and they're synthesized. This is the very problem with Carnal Flower's truly natural features, that some people don't like. Me? I am personally fan of twisted scents, specially when you know that or this note is included but afraid to strongly claim so. Therefore such purist scents to me smell like premium ambiance sprays. This of course is a personal preference and doesn't mean the scent is bad or good. It is indeed superior quality, professional blend and an artistic timeless floral green fragrance with perfect sillage and tenacity. It's Giacobetti's after all!

Carpe Odor!

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