Wednesday, August 9, 2017

A dress to smell: Superstitious by Frederic Malle

It takes guts to come up with a new floral aldehyde in the time the category is reckoned extinct, first and majorly, because this genre is tightly related to memories of past and their era is, begrudgingly, over. Secondly floral aldehyde is a heady floral sparkling soapy category that for its link to past immediately reminds of oldness, muscular weakness and lack of health, which accordingly confront with repulse. Many of the genre are barely loved in public, specially among young generation. Last year Chanel accomplished to revive their legacy with new No5 l'Eau - luminous floral aldehyde - to adapt it to contemporary fashion. Another remarkable work is Dominique Ropion's newest launch for Frédéric Malle. This fragrance is interestingly named Superstitious and more interesting is this perfume is not a modification of an earlier stuff. It's totally new and it's crazy! Nevertheless, it does not face problems Chanel have simply because it is a first class niche tag whose audience scarcely seen in Sephora.

The fragrance is out of routine of Editions de Parfums and is made in collaboration with Alber Elbaz; who took inspirations in this perfume from silhouettes of Lanvin's designs and her giant floral aldehyde: Arpège de Lanvin 1927.

The fragrance opens with a wallop of floral fizzy aldehydic air. It's almost fresh like washed with lemon juice but there's no citrus joy included. Bombastic Egyptian jasmine and Turkish rose show off insanely with edgy indolic and soft soapy renditions. Boy it's lot of jasmine there, wild and lewd. This oldy aldehydic aura is paired with lactonic sub-play of peach (and probably apricot) that gives it a smooth powdery effect. It carries throughout the development until elements of base - patchouli, labdanum, and prominent milky woody sandalwood - imbue to a bony earthy crunchy Haitian vetiver, and a soft curtain of frankincense which was there since the beginning.

The incense is the very element to give Superstitious an abrasive offset, like Amouage recollects a truly French floral aldehyde. It's a fragrance with unpolished surface that gives floral aldehyde's palatial scale an urban accent; which is opposite to my expectations from Mr.Ropion's works. For his refined and flawless masterpieces, Mr. Ropion is Michelangelo in olfactory world, but why he should left tracks of his chisel on marble?

Superstitious waves in air related to remote past, hazy, old yet fully alive, classic and postmodern. It's highly floral and highly aldehydic, but it's neither this nor that, in great scale. It's a simple game of perfumery with few notes arranged in perplexing and intriguing way. It has strong longevity on skin up to ten hours and mellow sillage.

Carpe Odor!
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