Thursday, October 12, 2017

Delicious and gentle: Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

Neither Frederic Malle, nor the Belgian fashion designer, Dries Van Noten. I want to begin with Bruno Jovanovic - a shady portrait in perfume industry whose name refers for, surprisingly, iconic fragrances, though his name stayed unechoed. Here he is the architect of Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle. In a collaboration with both Dries Van Noten and French perfume house, Editions de Parfums, Mr. Jovanovic creates a fragrance that reflects Belgian breath and Van Noten's designs. It's fruit of, reportedly, eighteen months of work to emerge a fragrance that smells ambiguously gourmand without being clearly so.

Although most part of cliché about world cuisines is written with Italian and French accent, Belgium is the very one responsible for most delicious biscuits, chocolates, milky things, vanilla smell, smooth cuisine, and also Christmas and waffles. To capture such picturesque the nose uses oriental notes arranged around a fine Indian sandalwood that itself emerges milky and lactonic nuances.

The fragrance opens with sort of abstract sweet animality and deep balsamic syrupy theme including saffron, sandalwood, Peruvian balm, mingled with a fresh and watery citrus accord. It has a pharmaceutical oriental facet that I often saw when I was developing website reviews for Xerjoff and Sospiro fragrances. After a while the first layer's chaos settles and a fluffy musky warm animality, which reminds me that in Musc Ravageur, remains and mingles into a vanilla-cored, milky, woody theme.

Eventually the base is a fluffy, friendly, vanilla and sandalwood that smells like waffles just came out of pan while it's singing jingle bird outside! It's a strong perfume in longevity but so smooth in sillage like skin scented by smoke of an aromatic candle. I mean a barely-there light vanilla whiff envelops you. I'm not a fan when vanilla and sandalwood take hegemony in an oriental woody way, cause it seems simple to me, but to be honest, while many of vanilla out there shout out, this one gently speaks.

Carpe Odor!
Post a Comment