Wednesday, November 8, 2017

Fragrance review: Bourreau des Fleurs by Serge Lutens

Few months ago the house of Serge Lutens unveiled a new member of their newly sorted Collection noir named Dent de lait. In addition they announced for birth of a new member of luxury collection of Section d'Or named Bourreau des fleurs. I had been truly antsy to get my hands on and my wish materialized with kindness of a dear friend in the house to whom I'm deeply thankful. While most part of perfumistas and connoisseurs are amused by Dent de lait (for its availability and new 100ml packaging of Collection noir), I found Bourreau des fleurs quite a fancy and intriguing fragrance to jog down.

The scenario behind this fragrance is different to that of prior seven articles. I received a catalog beside my sample that contains a gloomy dialog between a condemned woman who's sentenced to death and an executor whose ax is sharpened to decapitate the victim. The idea comes - as described by the officials - from mother/son relationship of Mr. Lutens. They also noted that the fragrance has no floral notes, though the title insists.

I was serendipitous to meet Bourreau des fleurs. What a delivery! A nifty rendered gourmand, politely piercing spicy, softly vulgar  fragrance that coalesces around a heart of immortelle.

It unleashes with burst of spicy weather paired with peculiar culinary waft and - most probably - spiky honey that confirms we are in Lutens' chamber. Immortelle immediately looms and spreads massive shade all over the scene. Then cumin, licorice and probably anise surge to trigger a sham gourmand that resembles some of early Lutens oriental works; not ambrosial or concrete spicy but dusky, murky, desiccated syrupy and quirky lactonic. I'm not sure about the honey but I detect the spiky animalic honey that takes responsibility in many early works of the house like Miel de bois.

Curtains down one after one till the scent sits and encapsulates deep base with a sheer musky rendition and an anonymous soothing odor reminiscent of smell of Coca Cola! Actually not sparkling soda directly but it's something delightful that makes me strain to match words for sensations.

Bourreau des fleurs is a linear perfume with cloudy and stormy spicy top and tender spicy musky bottom. It has enormous up to 12 hours longevity on my skin (again a common feature of early oriental works) and medium to down projection which keeps it close to skin. It’s difficult to impose a gender on the fragrance but it works pretty good on my skin, and me, well, I'm a male with almost dark skin, if it helps.

Carpe Odor!
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