Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Under my Skin by Francesca Bianchi; a Fragrance Review


The last few months have not been easy. A baby boy joined our family and it's so beautiful to be father, yet many of my perfumes jailed in wardrobe for the sake of his health. So it's been four months I haven't wear a perfume like I used to do before. Add last months of my wife's pregnancy and her heightened sense of smell to this period! As you guess I'm like Robbinson Crusue meets New York. If I ever needed a full-bodied fragrance with too many aspects, it's now. After months of hunger, I can't get enough of few notes in a perfume. I Need a massive pick.

Francesca Bianchi, a dear friend and a talented self-made perfumer whom I know from Fragrantica, developed her olfactory profile with a new perfume totally fit for new me! She unveiled Under my Skin in Pitti last September. It's a bit late to come up with a review for Under my Skin but I'm also late for everything these days!

Under my Skin is sort of balsamic, oriental and woody fragrance that takes me to an encrypted labyrinth where almost every element of perfumery exists. It literally includes too many particles and the result of this crowded bazaar is a harmonious viscous warm filthy animality. I die for perfumes that triggers my innate Marquis de Sade and Under my Skin indeed does! The last perfumes which I  found to be quite strong in that way are both outrageous; O'Driù Peety and Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï Khän.


Under my Skin opens with an eerie lavender and a coat of deeply spiced flora. Carnation, Bulgar rose and labdanum give birth to colossal heart where daring play of animalic notes in tremendous scale leaves a perky and carnal dark portrait. There's some sticky sweetness woven within context; from a to z; that follows rose and iris and leathery nuances of the heart layer. Boy this perfume is an encyclopedia of animalics written in new language.

Soon after woody side comes up with an embossed dusky and modest sandalwood - that shares approximate aspects with famous Mysore sandal soaps and also Serge Lutens Santal de Mysor - and bolder than that, intense balsamic rendition, musk, ambergris and leather. It's all about a dozen of materials spinning around a musky animalic core to cheer it up with oriental and balsamic performance that sums up in dark carnal humanity. The fragrance gives me impression of being in a antique shop where mesmerizing hand-made items racked to eaves, block light from tiny windows.

Technical aesthetics, its passage from top to end, and its notable tenacity, underlines on Bianchi's capability and talent to deliver her message with her own unique taste. Her works and her style in oriental themes keeps her on the border of apothecal natural perfumers and European niche market.

Carpe Odor!
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