Friday, July 13, 2018

Born in hands of masculinity: Russisch Leder by Farina 1709

Famous love scene of Ivan's Childhood by Andrei Tarkovsky, 1962
Leather is an obsession that weaves within my utmost innate feelings and I have soft spot for that. Through my endless discovery in infinite world of perfumery, I came to the point to claim leather is the very fragrance family I adore the most. It displays class, prestige, sensations and also it obscures certain boundaries of gender.

Few days ago I tried one of the most beautiful Cuir de Russie compositions ever. I tried many of this variety from Guerlain to unknown Russian artisan perfumeries, but believe me, Farina's Russisch Leder is an exceptional piece of art. An exquisite delivery that triggers my encrusted sensations and makes me jump off my chair excitedly.

My first impression took me to a romantic scene running through famous classic WWII Russian cinema directed by Andrei Tarkovsky: Ivan's Childhood. A cinema that reveals absorptive quality of war. In a unique shut, Captain Kholin, a high-rank member of Soviet front line, leads Masha, the only woman and nurse of the camp, to a solitude forest of white birch trees. A mesmerizing landscape of millions of eye-motif on birch trunks and contrast of white background with dark military uniforms, pairs with dead silence, in which remote gun fires and constant knocks of a woodpeckers does not cause slightest spoil.

Masha aims to jump over a narrow trench and Captain Kholin steps across to carry her to other side, but he forcefully hug her right above the trench and kisses her for some long seconds. Masha who finds herself succumbed in arms of masculinity makes no move with disinterest. Camera from below portrays their military uniforms and leather boots, and reckless love in the time of bloodiest war. A moment of romance accentuated by absolute overwhelm.

A fragrance should be so deep and rich to emerge such picturesque. Indeed Russisch Leder is simple in composition and enormous in impression. It begins with profound powdery soapy profile with hints of soft spicy semi-fougere-like greenness. Then it gradually dries out into a great fluffy leathery domain with prominent woodsy smokiness, which I know very well from Papier d'Armanie paper incenses: benzoin.

Russisch Leder is a soft sensual comfy mark of nostalgic past. It's like a painting I love to nail in most private part of my home to be the only one who sees it!

The fragrance had been made in 1925 by Hugo Janystin named Cuir de Russie; as a posh title for those era's leather perfumes. In 1934 it renamed to Kölnisch Juchten and renamed again to Cuir de Russie in 1967. Today we know it with German translation of the title: Russisch Leder.

Carpe Odor!

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