Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Your intense daily dose of sweetness; Psychédélique by Jovoy Paris

Psychédélique by Jovoy Paris

It is interesting that among some perfume houses; whether designer, niche or whatsoever; which yet could not deliver a acceptable release to take place in one's collections for two bottles, Jovoy, as a boutique, participates the industry with nigh fully perfect perfume collection. Though this is rational for a boutique to approach perfumery by itself and we all know the first aim is economy not saving the world, but it was expected while some nearer industries to fragrance like fashion do not, cannot, or would not release respectable creations, why a boutique do so?! Anyway, the house does it largely and most of their creation woo me badly, and the others are not even lower than medium.
It is almost beyond insanity to talk about warm fragrances in such hot summer days. Perhaps Psychédélique, for its strong warm welcoming and nasty sweet character, is the super star of the collection. It is an active volcano, massive and bombastic with too many synonym smell groups: woodsy, sweet boozy, green dark herbaceous, and patchouli which sits very well beside caramelized cacao absolute (Jovoy has perfectly implemented patchouli in its creations and had made a good portfolio). But what makes Psychédélique a great deal among all star creations of Jovoy and a top roller in warm patchouli cacao group? My personal evaluation is Psychédélique is a straight and non-abstract and non-twisted fragrance, plain but thick as well as it looks very complicated. It is thorough and fully composed, its warmth and its shattering kinky odd dampness shocks.

The beginning of Psychédélique is wet honey-like and sweet delicious with tons of massive caramelized cacao and chocolate, merged with patchouli, like an ancient wooden totem found in Mesopotamia, but the perfume is entirely modern with no link to classics. It's yummy and boozy, also a resemblance to high-priced biscuits makes it wealthy.
Psychédélique swirls towards patchouli, shows green dark side of cacao'ish amber. This is way enchanting when the core settles with labdanum and patchouli. It is smoky, dark and solid like lava trapped under encrusted layers. The core of the fragrance is one of the warmest ever seen, although citruses and rose and geranium try to cool it down, but they did nothing just add zest to its warmth. That is what Psychédélique exposes brilliantly, natural face of patchouli and cacao.

Some reviewers (great review of Kafkaesque for example) and people in forums identified the fragrance with concept of old library, cognac, some sort of classy things. In fact impressive illustration for such a fragrance, I admit, and it is much useful to understand the perfume upon a review this way. But honestly I don't see too much woody character in Psychédélique to call alike, nevertheless, I totally agree that the fragrance imitates the atmosphere.
Psychédélique grabs me badly with stubborn performance on skin. Wow it stays for a whole day on me with several hours of sole vanilla, labdanum and soft musk aura. Brilliant! So as sillage; a friend says it's normal, even mediocre but upon others' feedback it flies to several meters and fills a big office like ours just within few seconds; vividly and completely (apparently not a good coincidence cause instead of me every single one else is aromaphobic in our office). For some aspects this perfume is so similar to L'Instant de Guerlain eau Extreme Pour Homme. What links the perfumes is amber accords mingled with patchouli. And if you're not satisfied by the dose of sweets (which I don't suggest to go any further for the sake of public) you might turn it to Opus Oils Dark Chocolate Royale, but that is the ultimate chocolate! But, Psychédélique is an aristocratic casual royal fragrance.

Carpe Odor!

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Seize the summer; Amouage Sunshine for men

Amouage Sunshine for men

Recently the Omani house of Amouage made two surprises; Sunshine for man and for woman, which, both are totally out of opulent sultanate style of Amouage, both are out of incense which is cornerstone of Omani culture. While most of Amouage creations are cold-weather fragrances, the last pack offers summery mood!
It is not officially declared in the house's webpage but it is said the noses behind Sunshine Man are Pierre Negrin (the most responsible portrait behind Amouage creations) and Fabrice Pellegrin.
This review is only for masculine version. The feminine version, sooner or later, will be added to the actual review.

Sunshine Man opens out with immense and realistic lavender. The fragrance has a paradoxical treat inside; lavender and freshness are two not-completely-overlapping parties that come together in Sunshine Man. Although the opening is on pure lavender, and the next step is citric and fresh, and the base of the fragrance is identified by cedar, the pillars of structure are based on coumarin. Intense dose of tonkabean swirls into lanvender and construct the vintage dandy and chic character of the perfume. You feel it. You feel the retro aromatic spicy theme which appears with creamy delicious herbal mood.

Creamy for lavender, natural, filtered and refined. I'm not very good with listing notes one by one, so I skip over explaining the role of bergamot and junipers. They are minor parties of element. Brandy and cedar has great influence on overall composition. Sunshine Man in overall smells like tobacco and sun-oil! And unlike most of Amouage creations which are impressive by their gigantic personas, Sunshine Man is straight sexy because of its simplicity and friendly manner. It sends a message, connects clearly, yet it is still firmly on Amouage's style, it's grand and bold. Just like Sunshine Woman it is not a fresh perfume, but it directly reminds summertime!

Sunshine Man is stingy, a little warm, a little herbal but not wild, it's urban, ultrachic, four season (not so wintery though, not even so summery), deep aromatic, spicy and active. It has great longevity (it stays for more than 18 hours on my skin) and great sillage (only over my wrist it flies softly and my sample is not a spray sample).
It's maybe not in my priority list but those who love lavender raw and bold, would most probably the ones who immediately put it in the basket after first testing! I assure!

Special thanks to Jovoy boutique in Tehran for their all the time helps and kindness!

Carpe Odor!

Friday, August 7, 2015

Beauty is personal, not common; VenDetTa by O'Driù

VenDetTa by O'Driù

Perfume or Profumi, this is the discussion! This is the obsession just as about good wine; a Chinese wine or a bottle of wine with accent of Burgundy?! This is the intention to artistic side of every creation in opposite to mass-marketing...
Few decades ago the most august and intellectuals of the art world; Salvador Dalí and Pablo Picasso, to give names; added new vistas to enlightenment art movements that had been vaulted earlier; the role of human and his power of imagination into artworks has been highlighted. This, however, widened the gaps between art and mass audience. Dalí, for his erotic and perplexing expression has been titled a lunatic; Picasso, a fraud who earns from tycoons and art collectors who have not been gratified by Impressionism art collections of Monet and Renoir!

Francis Bacon, Three Studies for Figures at the Base of a Crucifixion, 1944

As long as it was, it is tied to modern art's nature, and for every bigger step there's a bigger opposition! Certainly, this is partially responded by modern arts of early 20th century that dag the gap between art society and audience. By the end of 20th century post-modern and conceptual arts, and several minor movements, have widened the gap and produce highly artistic atmosphere in which criteria, concepts, and messages of art became narrower and non-audience friendly, in some cases. The majority of this trend is oriented by art dealers who usually run main galleries.

Damien Hirst, The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living, 1991

In the realm of olfactory, just as in any other art activity (and even more, since the sense of smell is still enigmatic being of humanity, and perfumery is materialization of humanity's abstract perceptions) issues and concepts of artistic side of perfumery has been merged into its commercial power. In fact, it is full of doubtfulness and there's not border for artistic perfumery. How do you define it? What is the aim of artistic perfumery? What is medium and what differences is between "arty" and "non-arty" perfumes? What is art when the topic is perfume?
This recent years, since he launched his subverted and artistic perfumes in 2011, Angelo Orazio Pregoni has become a controversial portrait and synonym of insanity among majority of perfume lovers and random or even professional bloggers! He grabbed attentions and set in focal point not only by distinct perfumes but also by the way he introduce them: presentations and olfactory exhibitions plus uncommon comic videos in the Facebook page. The Objections dramatically increased after Peety, particularly for outrageous concept of adding wearer's urine to personalize the perfume. I gleaned from every reliable forum of perfume, red comments including indication to the perfume's unhealthiness! "How can a society who eats at Burger King and wears random "blitz compliment-bringer perfume talk about healthy side of perfumery while urine is in fact a part of body?!" was what I though when I was writing my review on the perfume. Anyway, no one force you to add your pee to your Peety as long as it potentially gives a great joy without it.
Not only the jaw dropping prices (merely the earlier creations of O'Driù) that makes one think that it is a big deal under cover of art, but also a reason of unliking is the bizarre performances which all have deep roots in erotism, comedy, philosophy, and antiquity. Scented underwear, perfume from you're removed underwear in few hours, nudity and carnality and uncommon atmosphere! But honestly these are not things for discus!

NOUSE ART is the movement he founded in 2011 that is responsible for several art and olfactory performances: Lumore (Napoli 2011), Perfhumance (Roma 2012), Intimate Apartment (Amsterdam 2012), Mise en Abyme (Milano 2012), Splash, slow dinner fast perfume (Amsterdam 2013), and Wikifluxus (2013).


The last trinity by Angelo Orazio Pregoni is in fact a response to those whom he calls unfriendly oppositions of O'Driù. It is called VenDetTa for vengefulness; a simple primordial and undeniable emotion of humanity that comes from deep anger in return of a violence. The fragrances plus Satyricon have been introduced in Esxence 2015 in Milano. The trio's packaging is designed by Marco Ventura and it is made out of recycled materials. Each pack is handmade and has differences in details. The general shape of Ven, Det, and Ta is conic droplet 50ml bottles with metal hexagonal nuts cap and two metal blades arc-welded at one side to form "V" perpendicular to stopper to form devil's horn and V for vendetta; and irregular incompletely stuck labels, all provide diabolic and unusually attractive appearance. Just as the quaint aromas are. The three perfumes are in fact a soul developed into three form that signify three steps of a revenge: anger, for when you're furiously about to kill; purpose, when you're planning a revenge; and act, when you finally implement the plan of revenge. VenDetTa has molecular integrity in design. Each perfume can be worn separately or together with the other two or one; it's up to wearer.

I found the perfume trio very conceptual and maybe a simple review on scent and price and such things will not be sufficient for such issue, therefore, I preferred to make an interview with Angelo Orazio Pregoni before I introduce the fragrances. In this interview not only the trio, but also the questions about general aspects and concepts of O'Driù are asked.

An interview with Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O'Driù

What is O'Driù? Where the concept comes from?

O'Driù is an anagram of Druid (in Italian language, Druido), with the vowel "O" in front to ridicule the French use of the word "Eau". Also stressed the "U" is a game to imitate the French phonetics! Very little is known about the ancient druids. Among the Celts of Gaul and the British Isles, druids were a kind of priest: the performance of religious and rituals, the interpretation of omens, the storage and transmission of traditional knowledge, all these things were the tasks of the Druids. The Druid was a landmark.

How and when you began perfumery?

In 1996, after working in the wine world. But at the same time I began to work as a Chef too.

Have you made perfumes for other brands or bespoke before you begin O'Driù?

Of course! Even if illegally.

You're an anthropologist. Has it inspired you to approach perfumery?

I am convinced that our prevalent communication uses smells! In 1996 I was in Brazil, in Salvador de Bahia to study the Candomblé. During a ceremony everything became clear to me: how odors could be used, the smell like words, divination, the ambitions of Julius Caesar, the secrets of the Vatican, the obesity problem of Elvis Presley, the speed of the crash of James Dean’s car.

There's a big gap between O'Driù and majority of perfume world. Can you describe it?

I could not! It seems like a chasm. The difference between a museum of wax figures and Rapa Nui!

What sort of perfumes you don't like to make?

Those that are made from wax figures!

How do you define "art"?

I believe that art is separate from the human being. As a deity which can be reached only with the help of a pagan pontiff (etymologically from Latin “pontifex”, creator of bridges). Anyone setting up these bridges is an artist, but before building a bridge you have to destroy the stereotypes to create a firm foundation.

Both in your perfumes and in your performances, there's an erotic interpretation. Why is that for?

I try to subdue the moral! The eye is now accustomed to nudity and easily crosses the boundary of ethics and morals, while the nose can not overcome the moral as easily! Smelling an undergarment abandoned by a person is far more difficult than seeing the same person naked. If the nose exceeds the limits of morality, then it is walking on a bridge to the art.
Many believe that nudity is erotic! I am convinced that it is the smell to be erotic!

After so many unusually priced perfumes you discontinued, Peety is your most talked perfume for its concept of urination. What was the concepts and criteria of making Peety?

The ingredients in a fragrance not remain separate, on the contrary they blend together chemically. Similarly it occurs by adding water and salt: they creates a chemical reaction that changes this scent! Peety is an overdose of ambition! Peety is the refusal of approval. Peety is one of the best perfumes in the history of perfumery!

O'Driù perfumes are artistic and apparently not for all. Bearing in mind that there are only few of us who get involve with arts and among them there are even fewer who we really understand and communicate, how do you connect with your audiences?

One of the features of the niche perfumery is that you do statistics only on those who talk about niche perfumery. Actually the forums are frequented by mentally ill people! These are incompatible with my collectors who are "severely mentally ill", so if they write in a forum they do it only to send to fuck the others!

What sort of materials and ingredients do you usually use? Have you ever made an exception for a perfume?

In all limited editions I only use natural ingredients. In the ongoing series I also use synthetic ingredients. I create a perfume without thinking about the ingredients: the ingredients are musical notes or colors, what interests me is the mood.

What is VenDetTa? I briefly explained the concept but it is nice to hear perfumer's words.

VenDetTa are three perfumes which can interact among them. They tell the feeling of revenge as a gentle drama. The idea was to create a futurist perfume, using unusual materials, to continue my path on the bridge I said before. While everyone ridicule himself with perfumes already made and remade, I want to go beyond the Pillars of Hercules, like Dante's Ulysses. Fuck fragrance family, forums, distributors, invented Noses, prizes, luxury brands disguised as niche brand, the ones saying to exist for centuries and have been born yesterday, ignorant bloggers, the ones licking the ass to sell, religious lobbies, homosexual lobbies, Masonic lobbies, fairs and friends of friends! The perfumery: is it this shit? I wanted my revenge, my VENDETTA!

Why the collection is offered in three different bottles?

VenDetTa! Three perfumes: each bottle is a unique work, but all three together have a continuous graphic mood. Marco Ventura is the sculptor who created these unique pieces.

There is a strong similarity between Ven, Det, and Ta. Why is that for?

Because they speak the same language in the soul of the same person.

In an interview in Esxence 2015 you mentioned that you probably stop the line and start over another line. Can you describe about it and its reasons?

By the time I stopped "Wet Dream": Peety, Eva Kant, Pathétique and Satyricon, they will stay in four! I also stopped "Alchimia di Profumo", those scents have become vintage ones for my collectors. So over Wet Dream, I will present a new basic line that will try to rework with innovation some stereotypes of perfumery. The first will be presented in September/October, it is ITALIAN ANGEL. Soon the new KMA (KISS MY ASS) line will be ready in 32 pieces!

What is Wet Dream academy? What is the aim and what are the missions of the academy?

An anti-academy. Where you can join for free, and understand my style, my ideas, my modus operandi!

The first chapter of revenge, Ven, opens with very intense boozy vibe; boozy and aromatic spicy; with intrigant sweetness. Pineapple liquor and rum cocktail allied with cherry wine lees. This dark ritual zest is the introduction, then it immediately shifts into spicy and creamy format. What Ven says is cumin in brutal form mingled with classy sensual notes. The clash of two opposite sides make yeen and yang but not balanced, it's totally impetuous and wild. Ven is a gastronomic and bizarre type of spice, with animalic erotism buried under tones of warm notes.
In overall what you acquire in the first hour of application is pineapple, booze, wet damp uncooked rice, cherry wine, anise, wheat flour, and tobacco. Certainly, not all of these are listed but I mentioned what I get to emphasize immense and complex body of Ven.
The heart of Ven is a shapeless solidity, or let's say irregular rigidity. For such oxymoron Ven, just like Det and Ta, is an ineffable perfume. The first layer's projection is so great and robust. The core, when cumin takes control, is soft and moderate. It stays great on skin but doesn't fly over to leave a trail.

It initiates with very persona of O'Driù. Det is a close sibling to Peety. Like in all creations of the house, Det has considerable Roman empire air. They are thick, gigantic, ancient, smoky, mythical and pompous.
Det opens with a very familiar smell; a familiar intense smoky gourmand smell mixed with unexpected hints of aquatic vibe but not as happens in Italian perfumes. The aquatic vibe is metallic and acrid and very body-mate. For some aspects of peanut, creamy and waxy sweet, amber-like tobacco, and benzoin, Det reminds me to Slumberhouse Ore (although it's not that dense and suave as Ore) and it has the same image of pervert sweetness.
The heart of Det is more herbaceous. Sweetness is now calmed and savory hints of mint and woodsy notes appear. In overall, Det is a creamy waxy, thick, witchy gourmand, floral, and aromatic fragrance. It has linear bombastic opening till one hour and aftermath it settles close to skin. This series has moderate sillage and I think it has to be so cause this volume of magma disturbs if it jumps out.

Ta is a familiar composition. A camphorated fruity floral structure with delicious sinful strawberry, and melon-tuberose, on cedar, that does not remind you Carnal Flower. There's a notable semi-aquatic and metallic smell with the fruity side, that evokes sense of uncommonness and it comes from bay-leaf. Italia has plenty of this plant everywhere and the smell of the leaf strongly signifies the greens of the country. After Woodland Strawberries, this perfume is the second realistic and "Alice in Wonderland" type of composition on strawberry fruit. The fruit potentially has strange and unfavorable behavior and metallic smell; that is intensified by bey leaf. A strong touch of cedar, after a while, sets the main character and thickens the overall feature.
Ta is delicious and hazardous, sweet and bitter, woody, aromatic and fresh warm. Ta is the trouble itself, occurred, blood is gushed on herring bond mosaic floor. It is sweet, as sweet as Ven and Det, and as sweet as masking a poison with wine in a glass.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, August 3, 2015

Olibanum, wealth and humbleness; Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano

Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano

Thanks in advance to Farbod for this mix. My etude drawing in black tourmaline picture

Three things I love about olibanum are, first, its paradoxical regressive yet modern luxurious attribution. Beside this authentic unmodernized manner, its dark smoky vibe which fits any color but white (while itself is talcy creamy yellow-white) is the second paradoxical fact! The third fact is its evocative smoky aura which has bold contrast with its sacred mood.
A bold scent-perspective of olibanum is its safe, trustworthy, and secure mood of carpentry workshop, occupied by loads of trunks and timbers; newly cut or aged; here and there. An old kind carpenter; whose large size shoulders and arms are anomalous to his tender kind character and white ambry long beard; works in his carpentry. The place is full of aged sepia colored wooden items portfolioing his lifespan career and passion.

St. Joseph the carpenter; Georges de La Tour; 1640 (the very painting which comes to mind every time I face a fine olibanum perfume.)

But these are not the only facts I love about Black Tourmaline. I love, no, I adore its sacred enigmatic sexy air which is olfactory equivalence to new-age style of music in late 90's. It is hard to wrap a certain explanation for Black Tourmaline which is an ostentatious aroma in its own group: olibanum or incense; both respected. It is sacred but it is earthy and not churchy or cathedral'ish like James Heeley Cardinal.
In first sniffs it presents utmost level of satisfactory for a dark and smoky atmosphere in luxurious manner. Luxurious and friendly just as stones Olivier Durbano employ to create his jewels (Olivier Durbano has interesting humble luxurious collection of jewels,specially necklaces). Its opening is array of ritual spices: cardamom, caraway and peppery accords which escort olibanum. It utterly gives a soft delicious dimension to the oudwood-attributed olibanum in the hearth of the performance.

Black Tourmaline continues to settle in a very smooth, very refined, and detailed elaborate olfactory jewel full of facats, yet what comes out is an integrated volume. The spicy vibe submerges and olibanum becomes richer with more woodsy vibes darkened by leather.
Black Tourmaline is soothing dark, mysterious, and fashion-mate fragrance, full of modern Gothic nuances. Once I was going to blind buy a "weird" perfume and sorted a list of top rated ones gathered upon comments and surveys, and one in the list was Black Tourmaline. Although I didn't pick it eventually but the time I tried for the first I found a standard high level oilbanum which is weird in the same position.
The essence of Black Tourmaline is on leather, pepper and olibanum. This trinity makes a dark, creamy-crispy, smoky and woodsy calm and gentle scene for that the fragrance is half formal half casual, not daily, not for warm weather, and informally luxurious. The third winning ace of Black Tourmaline is for its complexity; while many of olibanum-oriented fragrance exhibit humility and simplicity, Black Tourmaline presents it in a very detailed, Gothic, and thorough way,

The perfume has strong longevity, strong enough to cover a whole day, dry down included! Projection is ordinarily fair, not so great nor poor. One fact I capture is mostly olibanum perfumes suck in humid weather but practically this one does not, or at least is not cloying in humidity. Just give it a fresh dry weather and it gives you the best aura ever. There are too many olibanum or frankincense fragrances out there in the boutiques but I strongly suggest to get a nose on this one before any pick.
Fashionable sexy mellow darkness and one of the best in olibanum category.

Carpe Odor!