Thursday, May 21, 2020

Dream, Voyage, Legend: an interview with master perfumer, Lorenzo Villoresi

There is one thing that some music stars, Hollywood artists, and portraits of politics share in common on their toilette desks. Its Florentine perfumery boutique, Lorenzo Villoresi, where they take a tour and order their own bespoke. A maison of perfumery established in 1990 and is named after its maestro. However, the house is not only a boutique for scents and cosmetics. We know it for its activities towards preservation of traditions and values of perfumery, as much as training, museum and of course, fragrances. LV's a guardian of cultural values of art of perfumery, though you barely see them in the perfume industry exhibitions all around the world, and barely see next to the new-brand so-called niche fragrances on the shelves.

It's been a while I was mailing to the house for an exclusive interview with the master perfumer, Lorenzo Villoresi. After a looking delay, I'm here eventually with this conversation.

Sunday, November 10, 2019

MDCI L'Homme aux Gants: a fragrance review

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Leonardo DaVinci

In the last months by which we passed winter, the Parisian house of Parfums MDCI has released three fragrances tagged under a new collection named after great works of classic paintings. There is something festive about every fragrance created by MDCI. In the crowded market of today that every brilliant idea can easily turn to an ephemeral fad and be forgotten, it takes guts to venture with classics and simply neglect what mainstream market demands.

The collection - as mentioned by Mr. Marchal in the interview I made with him - will contain eight fragrances; four masculine and four feminines, all inspired by great works of classical arts. This time a canvas by the Italian Renaissance painter, Titian.

Painted in 1520, the picture portrays a young man whose gesture is poised and fashionable. White shirt, black jacket, a gold ring, and sapphire-pearl medallion, all arranged on a simple dark background.
His calmness, his minimalist style and the modest play of colors the painter does, emphasize of flamboyance with avoiding anything more than needed. There is a special charm in its simplicity.

So goes our perfume: L'Homme aux Gants. At first, you indulge the well-spiced (nutmeg in hegemony) creamy oud opening that reaches its destination by tapering into hospitable warmth of vanilla, benzoin and tonka bean. The elements of opening are quite radiant, but not overwhelming or overexposing. Everything here is measured by Nathalie Feisthauer. She successfully depicts the painting's quality of opulence by the use of few materials gathered in such excellence as L'Homme aux Gants.

When the darkness of oud and spices calms down, it craves for its path towards vanilla, cinnamon, benzoin, that cohabit with leathery ambiance. Interesting is that you don't get any lactonic or really suede note, but you apparently feel the tactile texture of fine suede gloves.

L'Homme aux Gants is warm, sensuous, cozy, comfy, casual/formal, homey, inviting and safely enigmatic. For its sweetness, it's a good casual autumn/winter cologne for the evening. I would prefer to wear it at home, but it also nicely works for outdoor. If you like Dior Fève Délicieuse, Guerlain Tonka Impériale, or Eau des Missions by Le Couvent des Minimes, you would probably put this fragrance in your shopping basket.

Carpe Odor!

Etruscan Water by Francesca Bianchi

There’s nothing exciting like the transportive ability of a perfume to take you to a place and time. And no one understands this phenomenon better than Francesca Bianchi. For me, art is what makes me excited, is what brings up the very visceral imaginations, and what makes me so tied to.
I'm a picky guy, not only for perfumes. As a matter of that, chypre fragrances have always been the ones I barely wear. This is majorly because of their unwelcoming dry down. I know many love chypres just because of that grown smell. However, the dry down in most of chypre fragrances look oldy to me and makes me gloomy. I have a vast variety of them in my collection from Mitsouko to Chypre Palatin and respectfully preserve them in proper climatic condition.

I received a pack from Netherland tagged Francesca Bianchi Perfumes. A couple of samples and a tiny letter drew a wide smile on my face. My smile became rather wider when I sprayed Etruscan Water on my wrist. What a fabulous scent.
The fragrance opens with a natural air of citrus and citrus peel and petitgrain with all its acrid and bitter zest. A true Italian legacy, especially when you discover hints of basil woven in its citrus assault. From the opening, you obviously realize that this is another case. Not another chypre perfume on the shelves. While most of chypre perfume tend to lush floral or fruity heart, this one goes with the saltiness of seawater without hiring any marine note.
The depth the fragrance, instead of floral notes, displays a brilliant cornerstone of Mediterranean ambiance: immortel. This plant acts like a Swiss knife...
At the core of the fragrance, you still have that oldy signs of chypre fragrances, but here, in place of woodsy mossy elements, soft, soothing iris, basil, oakmoss and grapefruit show up.

Thursday, August 1, 2019

Acqua di Sale by Profvmvm Roma: a fragrance review

"The sea smiles from far off,
Teeth of foam
Lips of sky."

Federico García Lorca

Sea waves lay down and make pebbles snore. Refreshing sea breeze smoothly touches your sun-tanned skin. Cool of water and heat of sand under your feet give you an incomparable joy. And the rapture of finding a huge seashell no one has noticed... these feed imaginations of every melancholic artistic mind, as essenced and dropped in Acqua di Sale.

Monday, July 22, 2019

Megamare by Orto Parisi

I came to the point to bravely confess that although aquatic fragrances are not entirely my type, there are some I really have soft spot for. Strangely, they have nothing in common to make it easier for me to classify and emerge a decent definition of my own taste. One is fruity, one is fishy, one is greeny, and some, clear water. However, it gives the result that I have a nose for true work of art and artistic ideas; just the way I welcome every other matter which gives me 10/10 joy.

Thanks to nice friends in SNOTbv (the company which exclusively distributes three niche lines of Nasomatto, Orto Parisi and Maria L.) I received a couple of samples of the new fragrance by Alessandro Gualtieri. You can watch in this link how terrific their idea of sampling is, and how it surprised me.

Saturday, June 1, 2019

Nio by Xerjoff: a fragrance review

It's mid-spring and the weather is getting hot to promise summer. I'm impatiently waiting for it to bask in the sunshine with aloha shirt and enjoy fresh pineapple cocktail, so why not to talk about a handy fresh fragrance?!

Sunday, January 20, 2019

Different, Elegant, Personal: An interview with Claude Marchal of Parfums MDCI

At left side of homepage of Fragrantica website you notice a long list that hosts newcomer perfumes and perfume houses. Many enter this galaxy, but only few engrave their names, I strongly believe. They are those who work with precision and aesthetics, not trends and preferences of market. For me Parfums MDCI is a good example of a success. An indie-niche house of perfumes, bigger than many renown "niche" ones. Their high-end quality, complexity of compositions, loyalty to classics, and hunger for ultimate beauty feed my high expectations.

Sunday, December 16, 2018

IMMERSIVE PERFUME SCULPTURES: An interview with Andy Tauer

Actually there is no need to compose an introduction for an interview with Andreas Tauer of Tauer Parfums. We know him not only with his groundbreaking fragrances but also with his personality. A friendly portrait in social media, a multi-talented man, a nature-lover, and a perfumer who works with precision of Swiss watchmakers. These are mandatory ingredients to be Andy.

Sunday, December 9, 2018

Safe inside: a review on Battaniye by Pekji

It was about two years ago when I first chatted with Ömer İpekçi about his perfumes: Pekji. The most noticeable characteristic to consider was his style of communication. A syzygy of words compiled to couch complexities of an inexpressible artistic mind. Later when I discovered his perfumes I noticed the same cryptic characteristics and friendly slang mirrored in his perfumes. Some of you might remember my article about Pekji in which I wrote shortly about five of his perfumes (Eaumer, Ruh, Odun, Cuir 6 and Holy Shit) when I was an hardcore fan of marginal and avant-garde side of perfumery. I confess it has been long time since the last I wrote about indies, but new amber/patchouli of Ömer İpekçi makes me turn and write about it: Battaniye.

Thursday, November 8, 2018

L'innommable by Serge Lutens: A fragrance review

I have a soft spot for everything of Serge Lutens fragrances including scents, bottles, colors and all, that comes from my aesthetic preferences. (I should detach new 100ml bottles here which are merely out of my affinity for beauty) A pair of new fragrances came out recently, both based on immortelle and amber accord. A new spicy gourmand amber named Le Participe Passé presented in classic oblong bottle, and another spicy amber named L'innommable presented in a new division named Gratte-Ciel (Skyscraper) that also takes ten other fragrances of the house. Gratte-Ciel collection is delivered in a new appearance: a quaint long pitch black bottle with square base and slender height that reminds art deco designs. It entirely keeps the liquid obscured.

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Homage to Hemingway by Masque Milano: a fragrance review

Many thanks to Alessandro Brun for this picture
Considering growth of perfume industry from 80's up to today, we notice a giant speed up in every part of this trend and correspondingly decrease of quality and innovation. Many perfume houses that begin today are not lucky to introduce in Pitti or Esxence next year. Those who survive by aid of budget injection are replicas of some others which formerly gained some fortune. Only few surpass with innovation and justly deserve to be introduced two decades later. One of such houses is Masque Milano. An Italian premium fragrance house with brilliant portfolio which added a new vetiver-oriented fragrance this year.

Friday, July 13, 2018

Born in hands of masculinity: Russisch Leder by Farina 1709

Famous love scene of Ivan's Childhood by Andrei Tarkovsky, 1962
Leather is an obsession that weaves within my utmost innate feelings and I have soft spot for that. Through my endless discovery in infinite world of perfumery, I came to the point to claim leather is the very fragrance family I adore the most. It displays class, prestige, sensations and also it obscures certain boundaries of gender.

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

The epitome of jasmine: Jasmin T by Bruno Acampora

Happened some great changes in my lifestyle. Changed everything, even my taste for food and good perfume. It made me sell or give away some of my fragrances that I used to adore before. Separating from what marked memories is not easy but I'm quite satisfied with my new me. It opened new windows and shone on new horizons. Days ago at a friend's I tired perfumes of an Italian house of perfumery I have not tried before. Since I'm on new mood for exploring new things I welcomed it. The house is almost a shadow among other Italian names, and surprisingly, locates in Napoli, not Milano or Firenze. Its name is Bruno Acampora; charming enough to trigger one's curiosity to dig for it everywhere.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

Slowdive by Hiram Green: a fragrance review

I close my eyes and imagine a sunny day in June in an orange farm that donates heavenly smell of orange blossoms, fresh grass under my feet, bitter taste of chamomiles and buzz of honey bees, promising of a nearby bee hive. So intense, so true, and so clear like physical existence of a tangible object, Hiram Green's latest release, Slowdive, strongly triggers my imagination.

Thursday, June 7, 2018

Nudiflorum by Nasomatto: a fragrance review

Painting by Matthew Stone

About a couple of months ago, before Nasomatto even announce  for their newest launch, Nudiflorum, they began to post several plain images on Instagram that finally form a larger image picturing a fragrance in plain salmon pink color, that emerges sensation of something powdery, skin-obsessing, intimating and potentially erotic.

Tuesday, March 27, 2018

Camel by Zoologist; a Fragrance Review

When I was kid my favorite TV program was anything related to mystery and adventures of detectives in orient. My utmost love was Egypt and enigma of pyramids. Hercule Poirot, Tin Tin, Blake&Mortimer and such stories used to amuse me to death with their fascinating juxtaposition of oriental ambiance and European gentry.

Tuesday, February 13, 2018

A short review on Eau de Cologne by Johann Maria Farina

Popularity means the state of being liked by many people. It gains when an object or article meets basic expectations of aesthetics in a massive group of people. To give an example, one day something ordinary captured my attention while I was waiting in my car. It was a school bus parking in a corner. While on rear gear the bus played a monotone melody of Für Elise by Ludwig Van, as caution of a large vehicle driving backwards.

Monday, January 29, 2018

Passionate, poetic and inventive: An interview with Sultan Pasha

In today's fast food world where quality became a remote aspect of life and everything is produced for short timeline, one stood against all odds to resurrect a heritage of perfumery from its very origin. What is made ephemeral is produced by menial methods for massive population. As a result, attar oils and traditional mukhallat (in Arabic means blend) which are fruits of patience andd maceration, are put in shade by modern perfume and disgraced by inferior quality provided by anonymous online opportunists. Nevertheless, it is quite fascinating to hear pros and cons of attars and mukhallats from one of the most upgrowing perfumers of this range. Thanks to his kind and friendly personality, and a little thanks to social network where we gather to share our passion for odor, many of you know who's the nose behind the picture above. Sultan Pasha; a self-thought perfumer with eastern origin and western identity.

Although he's fully introduced by many bloggers who described his creations, I found it necessary to go further with an interview. I confess I went sooo deep in conversation! Thank you for your patience.

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Under my Skin by Francesca Bianchi; a Fragrance Review

The last few months have not been easy. A baby boy joined our family and it's so beautiful to be father, yet many of my perfumes jailed in wardrobe for the sake of his health. So it's been four months I haven't wear a perfume like I used to do before. Add last months of my wife's pregnancy and her heightened sense of smell to this period! As you guess I'm like Robbinson Crusue meets New York. If I ever needed a full-bodied fragrance with too many aspects, it's now. After months of hunger, I can't get enough of few notes in a perfume. I Need a massive pick.

Monday, January 15, 2018

Across 110th Street: Times Square by Masque Milano

I have never been in NYC, begrudgingly, but the Milano-based niche house of Masque Milano with their new release, Times Square, take me to years ago when I was deeply fond of cinema and I was a die-hard fan of Scorsese and his Taxi Driver. The movie's several sections passes through pervert streets of Times Square, showing porn cinemas, street jazz players, drug dealers, pimps, prostitutes and stench of cheap life all in a straight panorama of Scorsese's camera. I like the way he makes his masterpiece from streets where life is harsh, intense and stench. The same way acts Bruno Jovanovic - the architect behind Masque Times Square - with clarion notes and prominent accords. His tribute to old Times Square reminds me of Across 110th Street by Bobby Wommack.

Friday, December 1, 2017

Urbanized sandalwood: Comme des Garçons Concrete

Since childhood strange smells of environment that others find disgusting with abhorrent face were, and still are, matter of curiosity for me. That is a gift I had by which I extend boundaries of my google earth over our neighborhood, to nearby farms, meadows and woods, while other children were sentenced to live their miserable childhood on asphalt football courts. I should clarify that my neighborhood then was surrounded by orange farms, paddy fields and several unconstructed lots occupied by birches and poplars. That gave me enough material to grow up organic in city!

Wednesday, November 8, 2017

Fragrance review: Bourreau des Fleurs by Serge Lutens

Few months ago the house of Serge Lutens unveiled a new member of their newly sorted Collection noir named Dent de lait. In addition they announced for birth of a new member of luxury collection of Section d'Or named Bourreau des fleurs. I had been truly antsy to get my hands on and my wish materialized with kindness of a dear friend in the house to whom I'm deeply thankful. While most part of perfumistas and connoisseurs are amused by Dent de lait (for its availability and new 100ml packaging of Collection noir), I found Bourreau des fleurs quite a fancy and intriguing fragrance to jog down.

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Delicious and gentle: Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

Neither Frederic Malle, nor the Belgian fashion designer, Dries Van Noten. I want to begin with Bruno Jovanovic - a shady portrait in perfume industry whose name refers for, surprisingly, iconic fragrances, though his name stayed unechoed. Here he is the architect of Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle. In a collaboration with both Dries Van Noten and French perfume house, Editions de Parfums, Mr. Jovanovic creates a fragrance that reflects Belgian breath and Van Noten's designs. It's fruit of, reportedly, eighteen months of work to emerge a fragrance that smells ambiguously gourmand without being clearly so.

Wednesday, October 11, 2017

Of winds and salty waters: review of Viking by Creed

The house of Creed updates its profile with a new masculine fragrance that signifies modern man and is inspired by resolute devotion to exploration. The new release, Viking, immediately - even long before it officially announced - turned all cameras to the house. It's a Creed after all! The architect behind this scent is Olivier Creed who has been developing the house into new age of perfumery with many modern fragrances for both women and men since 1970's. His passion in voyage and seafaring encouraged him to capture the idea behind his new perfume from Iceland and northern waters where Viking culture originated.

Wednesday, August 9, 2017

A dress to smell: Superstitious by Frederic Malle

It takes guts to come up with a new floral aldehyde in the time the category is reckoned extinct, first and majorly, because this genre is tightly related to memories of past and their era is, begrudgingly, over. Secondly floral aldehyde is a heady floral sparkling soapy category that for its link to past immediately reminds of oldness, muscular weakness and lack of health, which accordingly confront with repulse. Many of the genre are barely loved in public, specially among young generation. Last year Chanel accomplished to revive their legacy with new No5 l'Eau - luminous floral aldehyde - to adapt it to contemporary fashion. Another remarkable work is Dominique Ropion's newest launch for Frédéric Malle. This fragrance is interestingly named Superstitious and more interesting is this perfume is not a modification of an earlier stuff. It's totally new and it's crazy! Nevertheless, it does not face problems Chanel have simply because it is a first class niche tag whose audience scarcely seen in Sephora.

Monday, July 24, 2017

Terroni by Orto Parisi

Alessandro Gulatieri, the nose and artist behind Nasomatto, Orto Parisi and MariaLux lines of fragrances, updates his profile with a new incense-snipping fragrance for Orto Parisi named TerroniAs a non-Italian speaker this is a nice term to pronounce but the term is actually an offensive address to people of south Italian regions. While in urban slang, the term terroni (plural of terrone) seems to be a synonym of redneck in the US, the title is actually a reference to people who work with their hands in traditional methods and yield the earth and form roots of civilization without a shame of being rural or being engaged with farmyards. It is as real as Antonio Ricci in The Bicycle Thief and as lived and weary as portraits in Mario Giacomelli's camera.

Saturday, July 15, 2017

Walls of serenity: En Passant by Frederic Malle

I have been living in Ankara since 2010. A soulless city with concrete buildings and no nature nor water. But if you ask what in this city makes me excited the most I immediately reply scent of lilacs bushes in May. Hanging violet clusters of tiny flower form canopies on tip of their fragile stems. A heavy spring rain gives its scent a dusky face and mixing with smell of soil after rain, lilacs depict a cute sweetness with gray-shaded render that I cannot pass by without breathing it all the way in. En Passant made in 2000 by maestro perfumery Olivia Giacobetti - I should kiss her nose one day - is a rare example of lilac smell in perfumery and also a rare example of post-rain soil. (Not exactly smell of petrichor)

Friday, July 7, 2017

Chic and luxury; part II: Lux by Mona di Orio

Some portraits of perfume art changed my path and my journey in olfactory realm. One of them is Mona di Orio, whose chiaroscuro play of light and darkness evokes my inner dark passenger. A nose who delivered melancholy, darkness, erotism and elegance at once in all her soulful creations. Although after artist's death the house's new policy changed the bottles, juice volume and even created new formulas, MdO is still an elusive artistic brand with greats timeless works. The perfume I'm obsessed to write about, Lux, is a member of Signature Collection delivered in 2006. Before I skip to the scent I should mention another portrait who impressed me is Luca Turin, whose avuncular reviews fascinated me, nevertheless, his thumbing down reviews on many of MdO's works and malice towards herself made me rather intrigued about her creations because happily I have tried them all before I know Turin, otherwise, you know how great his impact is!

Monday, June 19, 2017

From palaces with love: an overview on Parfum d'Empire

Parfum d'Empire is a French niche house of exquisite fragrances which have been established in 2003 by creative director and nose Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The inspiration source behind creations of this house is ancient empires and olfactory attribution of each depending on their cultures and available materials in their territories, to emerge an illusion of the past's glamour. In this post I shortly review few of their feminine works.

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Chic and luxury: La Belle Hélène by Parfums MDCI

Chic or luxurious, this is not the question, this is the obsession. Two infinite obsessions with definitions near to each other. For me, general speaking, chic is intellectual, arty, and profoundly weird without making incommodity. It better not to be quintessential and conventional, nor aspirational. Like Picasso or Pollock, or even Keith Haring. They are artistic, or at least they surely were at their own time before they hyped. Art is what thrills you, what disturbs your ordinary mood and makes you out of yourself to look to things in a different view. Shocks you. Chic is charming, like a different style of dressing, an exotic taste, an unfamiliar music.
Luxury, on the other hand, is settled, archetypal and related to comfort, wealth and dainty like saunter with high heels on!