Saturday, February 28, 2015

A perfume from heart and memories

Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

This is the first Serge Lutens I tried about couple of years ago and the first I bought and my first impressing was parallel to Luca Turin's first impression on the master's name "what a mysterious name" and I said what a mysterious smell.
Fille en Aiguilles is the best and an absolutely unrealistic and abstract perfume that presents the most realistic and elaborate pine scent ever, which itself is one of the most challenging raw materials to extract. About the title, just in the beginning I have to admit that I'm not going to disambiguate it since what is created by heart and memory is not translatable into word, it has not to be.

"I don’t think of myself as a perfumer.
I’m just someone who sets a fragrance within the context of a suitable story"

But still with his description about his masterpiece; Fille en Aiguilles; that says:
"Resin, sunshine, cicadas and the shade of tall pine trees. The needles prick your feet, but a stand of pines by the beach is a wonderful thing!"
he points cupid's arrows towards my heart.
I really don't want to be another reviewer who calls this fragrance a Christmas perfume imitating snow covered pine forest atmosphere, however, Fille en Aiguilles is an autumn/winter fragrance resembling untouched cold pine forests in Christmas time surrounding rural European towns where there's no track of car tires and smog (I'm talking about purity of the place); just as pictured in Marc Chagall's paintings. Yet, I really don't know why everybody has neglected its summery side? The picturesque Serge Lutens borrowed the concept of the fragrance is plain and visible: a warm beach with constant irritating-decibel yet lovely noise of cicadas, pines and their cool fresh comfortable shadow that makes the sand beneath much colder than that under sun exposure.
Again, beside so many other fragrances that shoot me back to childhood and happier days, Fille en Aiguilles brings those days in a flashback. Mid and late spring days on sandy solitude and uncrowded seashore with suspended water temperature that you're not certain to swim or not. Pines and eucalyptuses on beach provide a buffer zone between two sunny regions of water edge and back of the beach like a ribbon parallel to where sea's dances finish on water sucking sands and pebbles. The dried and crunchy long pine needles under your feel tickle and needle your thick feet skin which is an incomparable happiness.

I wish I had accessibility to my old photos in my archive right now, however, this photo meets my needs to explaining my point of view on what Mr. Lutens indicated about his feeling behind creations of Fille en Aiguilles.

But of course its concept comes from this summery vision and it is not necessarily a summer fragrance.
Fille en Aiguilles opens so robust with vivid glimmering tone of green pine needle smell, oddly sugary camphorated liquor'ish creamy spices plus turpentine and some incense and fruity vibe that pastes adequately sweet smoky air to the composition. Fille en Aiguilles is soft smoky, freshly coniferous and burning acrid and pungent sexy with promising and religiously hopeful air that reminds me Wim Wenders' Wings of Desire and its post-war hopeful view; religiously but not that spiritual as introduced in Cardinal by James Heeley.

A German poster of Wim Wenders' Der Himmel Über Berlin, 1987
The movie is called Wings of Desire in English

I'm afraid to say the fragrance rather change during time on my skin. Moreover, it is not complicated and multi-faced fragrance to be baffling, although, it doesn't mean that it's simple and monotonic. Behind its sexy dark caramel color it has all the notes listed together in olfactory golden ratio one could blend and that's what makes Serge Lutens high level and that's where anticipations meet reality.

Maybe it's a nice opportunity to talk about a similar fragrance rated by people on Fragrantica: Wazamba by Parfums d'Empire! Well I understand smell relies on body chemistry and skin but not that much that some people rated for similarity of these two perfumes. Wazamba is an incense/resin bomb while Fille en Aiguilles is a slight smoldering smoky pine ballet dance, a real masterpiece in its line for whom I should stand up and clap hand loudly.

Ansel Adams, Lodgepole pines cast long shadows at sunset

Carpe Odor!

A westernized oud

Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur

L'Artisan Parfumeur is an interesting case, most of the house's creations stay in the middle of something presenting many aspect in a same time with moderate and conservative level, or let's sat polite and cautious way. Al Oudh, itself, is a different case of oud accord and manifestation of the house's point of view towards oud and how this extreme oriental element becomes westernized and tamed.
The first thing is said about Al Oudh is about the nose behind this perfume: Bertrand Duchaufour, a perfumer with very brilliant portfolio and experience, however, Al Oudh is not exactly what I know from the nose's taste. It's like a semi-bespoke perfume for the brand and upon the house's request. Although it doesn't necessarily mean bad! What is interesting for me is some other reviewers' indication about Al Oudh a hardcore and uplifted animalic filth. Well, definitely there are different takes but my several testings tell me different. It's actually so sensual and delicate spicy woody with direct oriental feels but modern western vibes beside.

Illustration from the Arabian Nights, Leon Carre, 1920

Al Oudh is not actually an oud-prime fragrance. It blossoms with watered down yet charming dose of semi-gourmand spicy stream, very elaborate and soothing. Oud, here, loses its kinky sour smoky portrait and swirls with dried fruits and dates and caraway (some sources say it's cumin) and fertilized with animalic duet of leather and soft civet. With very sensual and hypnotic musky delightful accord it promises oud in the following which uplifts with spicy carnival. Dry fruits and caraway remind some of Serge Lutens' creations such as Arabie and Chergui but it's considerably much lower than those immense caleidoscopic perfumes. Anyway, why I call it "not an oud perfume" reveals in the middle phase when caraway and dates range the pyramid and oud submerges and subdues to spicy layer. What remains in the end is a subtle and fluent air of modern and western caraway/musk as majority intimated with oud-livered oriental spices and dates.
Although the title does not meet reality and expectations and it plays like colognes of Penhaligon's creations; I accept that L'Artisan Parfumeur has its own style and it is cool. Cool but not so great.

Carpe Odor!

Friday, February 27, 2015

Back to those glamorous days

MAAI by Bogue Profumo

It was going to be an interview with Antonio Gardoni, the innovative artist behind Bogue Profumo and MAAI, but I noticed he and his respectful artwork has been subjected to several professional interviews before even I smell the masterpiece so I decided to go through the perfume solely upon my own experiences and, of course, borrowing few words from the perfumer that are solved within the text.
Antonio Gardoni is not a perfumer, he's an architect with full passion and curiosity in olfactory fields. His first impressions and efforts in perfumery began long time ago experiencing with plants and organic aromatic ingredients. When I asked him does his passion in his career (architecture) influence his perfumery idea he answered "I don't really think that there is any specific and possible connection between the two activities beside the fact that I'm the same person doing both". Of course there's no common point on which the two fields dialectically meet but I see tails of architectural rational obsessions in creation of MAAI.
MAAI is by far a different case. Meanwhile in the time of synthetic movement in perfumery suddenly an organic based perfume made by someone who doesn't reckon himself as perfumer hits market in very very small amount and with no chance to be exactly reproduced although the material and methods are the same.

Antonio tells the story behind the material used in the perfume: No special secret formulas in MAAI and actually not even some of the rarest materials on the planet, just a lot of good quality organic natural materials with some appropriate chemicals but, yes, it took quite a while to develop it and endless variations.
MAAI opens punchy smelling ozonic and Freonic airy mingled with warmth of green aldehyde notes and high quality unblossomed green tuberose that steps forward and draw up the unusually reinforced and genitally animalic smell. Yet with these all, MAAI is not just another animal-hearted to extend the heritage of the mid-20th top sellers.
My first impression; I found it near to Chanel No5 and some other parallel releases such as Givenchy Amarige but then gradually during next and next testings it unveiled more and more till it reveals completely with very calm yet potentially hardcore animalic force on very delicate and fragile soprano smell of fresh early morning tuberose; then you think the title is perfectly fit!

I'm not actually accustomed to any martial arts but I certainly notice the delicacy and details of martial arts behind their coarse features and their active side beside their tranquility. They're full of humanistic features.
Maai (間合い, with pronunciation like Ma'ayi); I'm not sure if my understanding corresponds; is the title of a concept in Kendo (a Japanese marital art) simply translating to "interval" or "engagement distance" which refers to physical distance between two opponents in combat and the time it takes to cross the distance. This lingual diversity in between Japanese to English that precludes translating this term; Maai; to English in a decent and simple way is exactly parallel to difficulty of traslating MAAI as perfume to words as it literally needs too much words to make a scenario that for sure eventually it becomes exhausting and yet the idea is not probably delivered. Some sort of fragrances must be understood by heart and passion.

MAAI is an animalic striker, a modern retro art nouveau perfume with heavy floral chypre powdery nuances; a buzz smell with that famous urine-like musky floral theme of last century's pinnacle perfumes, however, unlike most of the classic chypre perfumes which are mainly rigid and heady MAAI manifests more dynamic and versatile attributes based on classic compositions. Among all those fragments of the brand-new synthetic revolution with any concept behind that occupied all the shelves in the markets, someone creates something that half of society had forgotten some decades ago what kind of smell used to be evocative and sexy. That's admirable.

Perhaps Alphonse Mucha's lavish and extra-magnificent art is the best example to declare MAAI's delicate and elegant wilderness.

MAAI is brutal/delicate, is sensual/cruel, is dark/glorious, animalic/floral, MAAI is ideal and conceptual. Maybe the juxtaposition of  all these paradoxical features is what makes MAAI complex and outlandish. MAAI is absolutely artistic!

Thanks in advance for Antonio Gardoni for the materials and information he shared with me to conclude in this review :)

Carpe Odor!

Thursday, February 26, 2015

An exquisite leather, part I: Puredistance M

M by Puredistance

I hate M and I love it! Why? I love it cause it deserves the highest love for a perfume, it's a masterpiece that shows how elegant a coarse element can be, an angel made by a beasty note. But why I hate it? I do cause it challenges me every time I test it and every time it wins. I wrote several reviews on it and erased all cause I found them inadequately informative and out of convincing senses and emotions. It's much higher than my lingual ability even. That makes me feel weak!
M is not a random creation nor a random leather perfume, nevertheless, I don't necessarily put it in leather category since there are numerous other aspects beside leather though its leather is genuine and bolder.
Here's he/she on my wrist for all day long, several testings. I say he/she cause unlike some reviewers I see feminine state as strong as masculine, though it is believed to be a masculine perfume. It opens with interesting delightful green or grassy vibes sweetened or spiced and swirled with faintly juicy flower infused citruses. To be honest, the opening is highly integrated and almost impossible to decode. What normally M leaves in the first whiff is only describable by an arrangement of fancy romantic literature terminology. That's why I always say this perfume is beyond words. Just from the beginning it amazes that how leather accord is embraced with spices and how charmingly establish a fluffy throne for this royal introduction. Indeed, M is royal and sumptuous.
Now, like always, I'm trying this and making a scenario in mind in that a dandy man is wearing a soft leather jacket that had been scented by Chanel Égoïst and the fragrance is intimated with the leather in time. And with all these in mind it just rang a bell and it was a scene in Tomorrow Never Dies. That's for its masculine side.

Pierce Brosnan in Tomorrow Never Dies, 1997

Then I red some reviews and news about it. Leather seats of Aston Martin? Agent 007? Roja Dove? Boy, what an English perfume. Believe me with a slight keen sense of making story for scents you can solve more than half of the story cause the scent reveals these all to you, it performs English! The philosophy of Puredistance is a throwback to fragrances reminiscent of the 1920's and 1930's and James Bond is about a bit travelling in time.
beside its semi-dark leather path it has some happy and whimsical sweetness identified with green woodsy notes that delivers soothing feels to imperial leather nasty vibe, and a result is just a focal point of two strong olfactory groups.
For me M is not unique in smell, not even that heavy to fall in love for, but it a strong charisma and it stands out cause the thing it has much higher than many perfume even higher niche ones is premium presentation of quality of notes that offers strong longevity and enormous enveloping sillage.

I found M quite dandy to be appropriated for Burberry suits, especially among all the collections I found this one from 2012 Fall/Winter runway.

Bel Ami and M; these two fragrances are often compared and paralleled; rightfully in some cases; but it is not all. Usually people indicate that M is wasting money while a %100 similar alternative exists. Actually I don't take that. They are apparently not mirrored, nor even in the same class. It's like saying BMW and Porshe are both the same cause both have four wheels!
Anyway, M is luxurious, opulent, high class, charming and sensual, yet, considering uncomfortably high price (approximately $600 for 100ml) while the scent itself is not a significant and unique type of aroma, it's only addiction to luxury and not that artistic in olfactory way.

Carpe Odor!

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Baruti; an interview

Indigo by Baruti
Part I: an interview with Spyros Drosopoulos

- Thank you Spyros for the time you speared for this interview. So where to start? Let's talk about where this all happened to you to be a perfumer?

My interest in how perfumes are made intensified after I discovered what is called the “niche” market in 2006, at the age of 30. Not that I didn't care for perfume before. Actually I have always had a keen interest in smelling objects. But before my discovery of “niche”, perfumes fascinated me more as a means of communication. I was intrigued by how much a perfume could influence the way the wearer was perceived by people around him/her. The discovery of “niche” turned perfumes into my primary focus of attention, and with that came the desire to learn more about how they are actually made. At 33 (while I was still working at the University of Amsterdam) I took a perfume workshop for the first time. There, I learned the very basics of blending. I knew then that I’d found what I always wanted to do, the one occupation to cover both my scientific curiosity and my need for artistic expression. After that, things took off rather rapidly. I would purchase every ingredient I could get my hands on (natural, nature identical or man-made), smell, blend, and evaluate the result.

- So you're a perfumer with different background. It would be interesting if we know your personal idea about artistic aspects of perfumery.

Well, to me art is a language, like English or Dutch you name it. And so an artist is someone who uses that language to express themselves. The degree to which an artist is able to communicate his/her message is what makes good art. So to me any object created with the purpose of transferring some kind of message beyond the actual function of the object qualifies as art. So a painting (no matter how skillfully painted) that is purely decorative is not art, same way the business report of Baruti is no art either, for they are objects created with a function/purpose and they don't transfer any message beyond their actual function. A perfume that was made just so people use it and then smell good, is no art either. It can be artisanal for artisanal refers to craftsmanship, but not art. The way I see myself I think the perfumes are both art and artisanal. They are skillfully made and they convey a message that goes beyond their function

- I have Indigo by Magnetic Scent on one wrist and Indigo by Baruti on another. Seems there's a big evolution or let's call it change cause the two Ingido's are seriously distinct.

They are and they aren't, with the new version I came closer to my original objective which was an amber perfume for summer wear! the biggest difference is the toning down of the hyacinth, but other than that the formulas are essentially identical.

- I see a sensible difference between Indigo of Magnetic Scent and Indigo of Baruti. Maybe it's because of the oud accord you use in it, it's imitating of leather/amber accords.

To me the old Indigo is clearly amber/incense dryout. The new one is less incensy. Actually in the old perfume I was using an oud-base as well but I never declared oud on the pyramid because a) it wasn't real oud b) I wanted to avoid indigo be put away as yet another oud fragrance c) the note played a supportive role anyway. The only reason I now put NOOUD in the pyramid of Indigo and Berlin in Winter is because it is my own base so I don't have to explain anything about oud. Also with NOOUD out there people can actually smell it and decide if it reminds them of oud at all...Due to the hyacinth being toned down the mastic comes forward much better in the top which is a positive thing as I love the mastic.

- How many études you did till you eventually found new Indigo is done?

I looked that up 17 the thing is that initially I didn't intend to change the formula, but I just couldn't resist not to fix some minor flaws I had discover with the old version. But then I revisited some even older version and found some aspects I liked there as well and so brought them back in, so actually the new version is a mixture between the Magnetic Scents version some even older ideas and some new ones.

- Personally, as an architect, what I'm interested in your perfumes in the matter of appearance is the keen attention of details in every aspects; beside the smells packaging, bottles, pattern, and logo in both Magnetic Scent and Baruti are carefully designed. It's amazing, and I don't wonder if you say you supervise all the process of production and design to get the very desired result in appearance beside the smells you blend.

Yes I do, but I also allow the people I work with a lot of freedom because I want them to love what they make for me as much as I do, and this only happens when they can put their soul into something. Besides when you open yourself up to new things you often end up with much better things than your original objectives, and so in the beginning of the creative processes is like noise too much happening and you see what sticks to what it transforms and so on!

I found the octagonal motif of Indigo and patterns on other Magnetic Scent perfumes quite architectural and arty

- Which house or perfumer influences or encourages you the most?

I think it's no big secret Alex [Alessandro Gualtieri] has been a big influence on me, also Geza [Schoen] and Bertrand Duchaufour. I also like Maurice Roucel for his ability to take up any project he likes, whether it's Red Delicious or Musc Ravageur. Personally, I still refuse to settle to something that would qualify as a signature. One of the things I love about creating is enjoying absolute freedom, and thus a signature feels like limiting myself which is contra intuitive to how approach what I do.

What is your most beloved perfumes?

Although I never ever actually sat down to make a copy of something, I think the original Wode by Boudicca (Geza Schoen) and China White (Nasomatto) are the only perfumes I actually spend hours smelling and thinking how they could have done it (I totally love both of them). Happily for me I have decoded them sufficiently (or so I think), to be able to identify what I love about them and internalize that onto my own palette (big smile).

- Do you prefer natural or man-made ingredients? Which sits better for your olfactory ideas?

I understand that for some people this is a meaningful distinction but to me it is not. For what I make I couldn't do without one or the other. I can understand natural perfuming from a marketing point of view and I can see where the anti-perfume reaction of many people comes from. But, apart from the fact that (as with most things) the term "natural" is so poorly defined that many perfumes claiming to be (all) natural are actually not, anyone seriously believing that natural perfumes are "healthy" and the ones also containing synthetics are "harmful" has little to no idea what they're talking about.

- You have begun a powerful start with the six perfumes of Baruti that I think a part of which is for the experience of Magnetic Scent and a big part is; for sure; for your deep passion and interest in the field of perfumery. With this uprising diagram of success I'm curious about your next projects! Would you like to tell us about the next projects? What type of perfume you're going to design?

Well I'm working on about ten things at a time. This is because for one I have too many ideas and also because designing perfume is a slow process. You can only make a certain amount of trials per fragrance in a week (one day you make it, let it sit overnight, then you evaluate the work which you need at least two days before dryout hits in so...). I have two more Indigo remixes I work on, one really powdery dirty sexy version and one where the leather/tobacco is pushed over the top, then there is Tindrer and the Jasmine, I'm making a perfume for my daughter and a couple more. There are also some collaborations coming up as well, but it's all still too early to really make predictions and set release dates. For now I'm focusing on the current line even six fragrances is quite a lot to start with so stores and people need to digest these first before I offer new perfumes. But yes I think for the next 5 years I won't have anything remotly related to a writers block :)

- Thanks again Spyros for the time you dedicated to this interview :)

Carpe Odor!

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

How does the earth smell

Sulphur[¹⁶S] by Nu_Be

The titles, the packaging concept and everything this perfume house does is just that cool to deserve a blind buy. I strongly believe that packaging and appearance are as important as the scent itself. I know quite a few examples that how amazingly charm with their appearance which is much higher than their scents. Perhaps the elements of Nu_Be; the new brand and powerful pioneer of synthetic revolution of perfume world; are best opposite examples in the field of design and how simple appearance presents artistic composition which is a routine occurrence among many of the parallel houses such as Fragrance Republic and Escentric Molecules who follow the same policy in design.
About three years ago in 2012 Nu_Be started the line and today has seven perfumes dedicated to seven primeval elements of the origin of the dust and magma that conceive the universe and stars; an artistic inspiration that promises the success and uplifts the whole line parallel to super niche and maestro perfumes that expand to more and more space in the shelves of high-end markets day by day. So, to be honest, the idea is so great, however, Oliver&Co has almost the same cosmic idea about the smell of space, and Blood Concept has somehow similar idea about the origins of the revolution of mankind; blood. Concepts that bring the theory of origins of human to memory.

Sulphur is a 2013 release of the house categorized in Aromatic Spicy olfactory group. Like its siblings, it consists of high dosage of synthetic accords beside considerable amount of Iso E Super and lab-made modern aldehyde notes. The notes; which better to call accords; listed for Sulphur are: Castoreum, Cinnamon, Grapefruit, Rosemary, Cactus, Guaiac, Angelica, Opoponax, Oakmoss, and Cedar (and probably aldehyde notes which are Antoine Lie's signature). Now, bearing the notes listed and the notes public-voted for their bold attendance in mind you may expect a skank herbaceous animalic with sour woody base but you're wrong in high percent! Sulphur opens with gassy soft sparkling sour and freshly chewed cactus plus unripe grapefruit that together with opoponax and its slight resinous smoky feature evoke the same feel of smelling pure sulfur gas: salty, sour, phosphor yellow and nervously bright. Also, it is the aldehyde notes that direct the path of fragrance.

Max Ernst, Murdering Airplane, 1920 (to talk about Sulphur's moral features, it evokes nihilist and hollow senses with profound artistic mood that reminds me some artworks of Dadaism school.)

Then it quickly becomes offbeat and subtle yet it is so acute and radiant. Sort of strange castoreum joins the club with earthy muddy dry way that nurtures the spicy side till they settles on the bed and develop every single minute of the performance. For his recent efforts in Comme des Garçons, Antoine Lie has developed his olfactory world through modern aldehyde themes; Sulphur is a noble examples for that. It is the aquatic/ozonic face of Iso E Super that delivers paradoxical aspects in battle with skank and dusty animalic vibes. The result is a synthesis of acrid acidic calm madness like suspended weather after storm.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, February 23, 2015

Of the land of witches and omen soil

Norne by Slumberhouse

Before I start I have to indicate that this review is upon my sample taken from the formulation with cylinder bottle as shown in the painting above not the new flanker.
Norne is for sure the most hyped and one of the top sellers among Josh Lobb's creations. When we talk about Slumberhouse perfumes the first coming to mind is "uncommon" and Norne is not an exception, however, it has more versatile aspects than the others. Norne is a thrilling dark take on needle-leafed forest concentration with months of effort on pure natural oils behind its creation. Knowing nothing about the perfume nor its title, the term Norne evokes a feel that tells me it has some root in north European languages and in fact it has and it is impressed by Black Metal genre of music that awakes originally from Scandinavian regions; Lobb mentioned in an interview.
Just like other Slumberhouse perfumes, Norne leaves you dangled and shocked which is hard to get rid of. You think about it, you smell your wrist regularly or wherever you sampled; unconsciously worrying about its ominous aspects which is common feature gifted to all Slumberhouse creations.

Norne initiates with dense volume of oily green vinegar'ish smell of weird moss-covered fir and pine smell; a bit wet and springy type of resin probably. From the beginning it is incense infused and spiced. Actually I feel scared of it if I catch the same accord in nature cause this level of abnormal combo in woods hints where the trouble is! I'm an atheist and I don't believe in any metaphysics or sort of ghost stories but fear has roots in unreasonable things and Norne evokes that apprehensive feel of sorcery!
But with these all this is one the most admired scents to imitate the realistic smell of forest absolute that have to say bravo! It worths the effort and time spent behind.
When it steps forward to the middle phase; however, for the density of its oily quality it is very hard to discern when it shifts into next step; it features kind of mature evil deep incense sour spicy apothecarial feel and the more it goes the more it gets far from the first conifer smell it has structured on, yet it doesn't reduce the level of smoke and darkness. In overall, Norne is an un-urban wild dark and green.

Carpe Odor!

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Joyous inner revolution

1969 Parfum de Revolte by Histoires de Parfums

That was probably not easy to achieve like many other revolutions! 1969 which is dedicated to 60's sexual revolutions and those brilliant years, in fact brings the idea to mind. I was in Harvey Nichols to test one or two perfumes that I noticed they hit Histoires de Parfums newly. I was excited as hell since I have been a real fan of 1740 Marquis de Saad and Petroleum. So I forgot for whom I was there, I get in the line thoroughly. Since I new 12 scents only some were new to me. After several testings and three hours of chatting with my friends in the market I finally picked 60ml of 1969 Parfum de Revolte and another one from another house.

Anti-bra protest, California, 1969

Until the moment I come back and check some reviews about it I knew nothing at all about it. It was the first time I pick one perfume upon first test and I was so excited. I usually happen to try a perfume several times before I purchase, even about cheap designers.
The notes listed by the site are: peach, chocolate, rose, patchouli, white flowers, cardamom, coffee, cloves, white musk [and probably vanilla].
Sometimes it happens that you fall in love in a perfume and it runs into all your egos. For me 1969 Parfum de Revolte is such perfume. It's sexy and erotic by all mean, sensual and nudist, elegant and evocative, however, it marked for women yet I can't neglect what I love deeply!

It was a long time I was looking for a unisex in gourmand trend that you know, it's either very hard to find or very pricey. But this one gave me a chance. 1969 Parfum de Revolte is a carnal floral chocolate spicy perfume with very pronounce erotic delicious nuances.
It opens with tons of chocolate and peach highly influenced by cardamom and patchouli, also slight amount of cloves. It is the first level that for its rose the perfume looks like a bit punchy floral and feminine but it gradually settles in more and more unisex balance when its cloves and patchouli get bolder beside strangely delicious peach and intense coffee/chocolate.
Well, normally we wear scent to match with our costumes or style. This happens a bit intense in 1969 since it's a personality on you, running all your egos out. For me it's like revealing all my hidden and forgotten senses and emotions to be freely myself, not ashamed of anything seems no one is around to judge me. It's boldly me on me, and egoist perfume that exposures me out.
1969 Parfums de Revolts is exactly the perfume of 60's and 70's "sexy years" and it is olfactory equivalence of Keith Haring's painting world and some other Pop-Art artists of those years and erotic culture run into visual arts especially comic strips.

Up: a Keith Haring painting, down: Brooks Shields by Keith Haring

1969 is naughty, delicious and happy, smells sweet intense chocolate and peachy fruity floral with soft spicy bed. I love the sweetness when it is unrealistic and abstract exactly the way 1969 presents; merged and mixed in a way that none of the notes is clearly visible. And what I love about this is its blatantly sexual appealing and erotic manner. It was long time I was looking for a perfume like this and the other only alternative for such sexy gourmand for me is Womanity by Thierry Mugler.

Carpe Odor!

That clouded absence in neverhood

Series 6 - Synthetic Tar by Comme des Garçons

It was a blind swap with a fragrantican friend from Thailand. I have asked for a sample if he minds to sell, he replied he prefers to sell the perfume cause he's bored. So this term "bored" when it is told by the others usually runs a syndrome in me that tells me the subject is quite nice, therefore, I accepted and instead of money we swapped perfumes. It, with its bulky ugly lovely plastic bottle, was shocking at the first step. To be honest I was expecting for a 30ml or something but it's a 75ml vacuum pocket in a 200ml sized plastic flackon!
Anyway, the day I received it I wore to walk down the crowded streets in a fresh evening! Boy it is so weird, so so bizarre and it seriously sad. What immediately came to my mind was the picture of Alberto Giacometti; the Swiss artist, while he's walking under rain and the sculpture of The Dog he made for this picture indicating that he found himself a homeless dog walking under rain. Artistic syndromes come out and I became an alien, a foreigner to all the people in the world like everyone was a distinct creature in an asphalt jungle walking, talking, eating, laughing, shopping and all and it was me, a bearer who might not be seen. How can I be lost if I've got nowhere to go?

Henri Cartier-Bresson, Alberto Giacometti, rue d'Alésia, Paris, 1961

Anyway, let's not talk about too much personal things!
Tar is dark, grey, gloomy and senseless. It starts with blasts of purely synthetic leather amplified with sour gourmand aldehyde notes vastly used in Comme sed Garçons perfumes. This outlandish opening smells astonishingly like petroleum and playdoh. Yeah, exactly playdoh is what comes to mind for the first whiffs of the opening, although, today they may come in different varieties and smells to be safer for children.

Oh, the egos of this perfume are much higher to concentrate on the suffocating smell of thick leathered tarry perfume. I just want to not be seen like a crow over a sycamore who sees all and its valueless black volume has nothing to attracts any eye. Tar is a very heavy dark smoky powdery resinous pseudo-animalic perfume with very earthy mud-attributed freshness that comes probably form the accords of styrax and aldehydes. If this is what they wanted to be, the project of Tar is apparently a successful step in synthetic revolution and again Comme des Garçons is the pioneer of this movement.
There's no special change when it gets into its stride, only a monotonic leathery grayness that emphasizes on its petroleum aspect. Not exactly tar nor meting asphalt, petroleum is the very element for this sad monster. And there is a song for this perfume...

Carpe Odor!

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Olfactive impressionism

L'Ombre Dans l'Eau eau de parfum by Diptyque

You may be an animalic fan, a floral or floriental fan, whatsoever, the very moment you get an aromatic melody of childhood I bet you can't resist, no matter even it's not your style anymore. For me this happened with L'Ombre Dans l'Eau with its silly natural virginity! I don't know why it often happens with silly things! It was a movie "Flashbacks of a Fool" that reminded me my teenage years, silly rocks of 90's that make me dance, and this time this cute perfume which normally I'm afraid of wearing such realistic naturalistic scents but I was almost buying it twice and at the very last moment I said NO to myself; boy be wise you don't wear this.
Now to clarify why I fell in love with L'Ombre Dans l'Eau I have to dig it out till mid-90's and check what sort of hobbies i used to do! Hmm... oh yeah! Huckleberry Finn book! It was the most influential thing in my life for that times. I spend several summers with seaside and swimming, riverside fishing, playing in farms under dark shade of orange leaves, noise of millions of frogs in rice farms and leeches, snakes, grasses and wild flowers, cherry plums hanging from trees, ice-creams. Man, this is all in this perfume, a photo album of sepia pictures in liquid form.

An illustrated page of The adventures of Huckleberry Finn

L'Ombre Dans L'Eau; the title is even descriptive and deceptive, is a romantic and poetic piano guitar duet in perfume form. A bright brilliant natural bombastic play by which all my forgotten feelings revive again. I really wanna go out of town for  while or trip to my hometown and linger for a while. Take a canvas and some acrylic, go to the woods or rural areas and paint some leisure paintings and live the way it should be! At the evening a mellow rain wash everywhere freshly and the smell of geraniums and grasses start to scatter all around. Raindrops tenderly expand on window like fingers of angels drawing on window glass. Boy this must be the life! Memoir is a nice thing to rely on some in a while and get back to your nicest days, take a call to old friends and have some fun!

Clause Monet, Study of a Figure Outdoors: Woman with a Parasol, 1886

L'Ombre Dans L'Eau is gourmand green with dense freshly ground cassis leaves grown with black currant (which is my beloved fruity note) and some watery rose nuances that doesn't suck at all although I'm not a rose fan usually. Black currant is not a folk fruit of our regions and I only knew its jam or marmalade till I've been gifted from a sampel giveaway in Fragrantica for their new perfume; Enchanted Forest and I dived into it completely. Then I discoveres an underestimated feminine masterpiece that how amazingly it performs on masculine skin; Lalique Amethyst. Simply and beautifully, L'Ombre Dans l'Eau is the olfactory equivalence of some iconic Impressionism art especially Monet's with his dancing reflective touches of brush and alive colors, however, in the context of smell L'Ombre Dans l'Eau is a super natural perfume highly loyal to all nature's aspects and it is naturally realistic, soothing and purifier.

Carpe Odor!

Friday, February 20, 2015

A cute dark discovery

Arsenic by Tokyo Milk

That is not the original head on the bottle, I made it out of mahogany wood

It was a blind but plus Dead Sexy from the house, you don't believe, it was for my grooming set I chose! They came to me after a couple of weeks and they were both great inexpensive scents but worth every penny and worth the blind buy!
Tokyo Milk Parfumarie Curiosite, a house of indie-niche perfumes with vast range of experimental monotonic releases created by the same character responsible for Lollia and Love&Toast: Margot Elena.

To be honest, not all Tokyo Milk creations are fancy, although, I can't say the say the same about cute bottles! They're all beautiful. I just picked all by chance and taking a look at the notes and reviews in Fragrantica and seemingly, I was pretty lucky.
Usually the titles in Tokyo Milk are cutely uplifted to encourage curiosity, and they do but Arsenic is not a perfume with toxic side or evoking evil dark feels as it's described by the house, nonetheless, it's an agile and successful fragrance with shallow and plain monotonic smell. Arsenic is weird sweet and green gourmand marine. Green like all Elena's creations with bitter and acrid taste and minimal synthetic side. Margot Elena's world is simple, full of sensual romantic feels mixed with weird mystical drama, whether, it's Ex Libris with its aquatic floral soft vibe or it's Bulletproof with its intense ebony vibe.

Arsenic opens with disparate happy marine green bitter stream (probably Calone or a variation of such oceanic-illustrating aromatic components) that smells slightly like freezing vapor of fridge with mentholated salty notes plus fennel and maybe some herbaceous notes like eucalyptus leaves in very slight amount and subsequently uprising absinthe leaf. From the very first step icecreamy smell of vanilla appears and it reminds me Thierry Mugler B*Men in some aspects that make the two main themes slightly similar.

Arsenic unlike its name is joyful and deliciously dark with no offensive heavy notes that happens in amber or leather fragrances which are mainly charged by myrrh of labdanum. This is a curious pinnacle of dark and watery moods that come together in a point once a million year.

Carpe Odor!

Thursday, February 19, 2015

An Italian requiem

Notturno by Meo Fusciuni

I wonder, although Italia is one of the boldest regions in perfume world with too many cheap to high-end niche creations, sometimes some houses are barely reviewed and barely known one of which is Meo Fusciuni which scarcely someone out of perfume addiction even heard of it! Even me, while I was exhausted of waiting to receive a reply for the constant emails I had dropped to the house, felt no chance to try this someday, however, many thanks to a friend of mine, he generously shared his perfume with me!
Notturno. Well the story began this way: I was going for a daring blind buy and I left a poll question topic to pick one among some "weird" perfumes one of which was Notturno and the others were Breath of God by Lush, Ore by Slumberhouse, Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano and some others that other contributors suggested. I didn't pick it for some drawback comments such as "poor longevity" or "not so unique" and so on. But it apparently left its regretful track on my heart and I wish I would pick it.

The very first whiff of the opening is deeply booze imparted carnation/leather duet that smells baffling and beautiful like glue or someone who drank too much beverage while he's wearing an aromatic 90's perfume on his leather jacket in fresh evening weather; but it does not necessarily means bad! It is so promising and evoking. Then it grows in less booze accord with slight hint of rum; which does not smell like rum but it imitates it.

The middle step, or better to say the second phase, is very gorgeous when the scent of black ink runs into the veins. Notturno is metallic, oddly gourmand, artistic and literally romantic, dramatically Gothic and sad, mysterious.

My expectations for ink smell in Comme des Garçons 2 which is supposed to smell so was turned down and revived again by Notturno for its sweet and fresh synthetic attitude. This is the time of miracle when ink joins to rum/leather party. But honestly some other notes that are listed are not clearly visible; oakmoss and incense, they're so faint and barely exposing.
For the dry down it completely turns back with no leather no rum, or maybe hardly some molecules remained. The smell turns into lots of glue smell of Iso E Super and smell of newly printed paper, fresh, somehow aquatic and dusty.

After several samplings I eventually found a right term to describe whole structure of this perfume in one word: Hamlet! If whole Hamlet play would be preseted in a specific scent it was Notturno.

Carpe Odor!