Sunday, June 28, 2015

Let's have a walk on beach!

Sogno Reale by Mendittorosa


Have you ever heard about warm marine fragrance? Neither me, but there's no limit for dreams and imagination right? This is the main rule to make dreams real!
Few months ago during days of Esxence 2015 in Milan the house of Mendittorosa has announced and exposed their last launch Sogno Reale; again by Amelie Bourgeois (the same nose responsible for the scents of Mendittorosa). It attended in a pretty fancy outfit. The bottle is the same to default of the house: square based and round edges. But the cap is not the same to the stony ones in prior creations. It is presented under two different sea urchin caps; one Byzantium violet and one caramel creamy*. Pretty weird alien-looking and quite fancy and cute. Also the bottle is belted by hide cord that at one side carries a circular bronze mandala. The package is like all of the rest of Mendittorosa: wooden, like Japanese packages (thick corners and very minimal). For its cargo-box appearance it emphasizes "handle with care" feel! Anyway these are info usually mentioned at the end of a review!


Hot summer day, broad flat horizon of sandy seashore, small continuous waves are rows of white teeth of sea. Extreme sunlight at the beach makes everything looking like an oasis or like déjà vu: white and lunatic. I feel lazy and sleepy, smell of warm waxy sunoil on my skin and drops of sweat that slip down. There's a desire to dive into the water and get rid of it, there's a desire to walk alongside the beach looking down for particles the sea spitted out. Pieces of bottle glass with round sandblasted edges, abandoned sea shells, drift woods, rusty metal things, random round beautiful stones, pieces of bricks rubbed like an orange-colored sponge, and so many neglected things! Neglected, without being considered that all of those trashes have the spirit of the water. Sand, things hung from ceiling or placed in shelves in my room, rare exotic woods gifted by the ocean, and all those memories captured in a room. I'm not imitating an image of all these, I'm describing my own room in my family mansion by Caspian Sea! Sogno Reale has all this joyful moment within, that conveys me to my hometown; miles away now. This perfume is one of a kind.

Fairfield Porter, Waves

It is all about dreams as Stefania Squeglia talks about the concept influencing the perfume that she dreamed about sea and when she woke up she decided to materialize this dream. Dream is a powerful source of art, strong part of imagination, and is filled with desire.
The fragrance opens with very unusual milky theme; thick, warm and sweet; with too much lemon to juice it. It's suspended between cold weather and warm weather. One fact is for its warmth and sweetness, it perfectly fits winter. On the other side, it directly resembles summer heat and tends to warmth. Very dangling situation and there's a strong desire to dive in it. The milky accord comes from sandalwood and I can't really deny the impact of styrax and animalic ambry mood on it. The beginning of Sogno Reale is so skin-mate, so dense and so creamy, almost punchy and rounded. But the rest when the fragrance settles in heart and matures, is just astonishing dreamy. It's soothing yet active, overpowering yet friendly and memorable. The heart of Sogno Reale, although is not as strange as the opening, is very amusing and sensual. It's on amber with leathery smooth animalic and resinous aura. The success point of the fragrance is keeping marine vibes in the background, not hiding it under tons of olibanum and animalic accords, not bringing it upward to make the perfume cloying like many aquatic fragrances presented by mass-pleasing designers.


It approves the noses' ability to manoeuvre with aquatic accords and keep it floating between warmth surface and hidden ocean depth! The dry down is splendid! I love this fluffy different type of amber leather in the base. It's sensual. I have not idea why it reminds me Marooned by Pink Floyd.
Sogno Reale; this title has two different impressions: "Royal Dream" or "Real Dream"; it's up to you! A sensual citrus boozy opener, marine woody milky themed, amber animalic based and leathery fragrance. Maybe not a good idea for summer heat but a good idea to wear in summer night or last September evenings! It's type of smell that experimentally may irritate in dry weather (it's because of sandalwood) and make wonder in humid air of seaside.
It's longevity is as strong as memories from summertime happiness. I'm so infatuated with this gem. Strong scent on skin, however, sillage factor may not meet the satisfactory level of one who plays electric guitar of Marooned! Not weak but not extreme.

Ps: The fragrance is presented in two caps. One violet and one caramel, as I mentioned in intro. The concept may leave you speechless! It's like finding a very special thing half buried by sands of beach. If a lucky buyer receive a bottle with violet urchin cap which happens randomly, s/he has a chance to pick another creation of Mendittorosa by her or his choose; instead of Le Mat and another Sogno Reale. And the amount of violet caps are not that low as the house announced. So let's have a walk on beach!

Carpe Odor!

Friday, June 26, 2015

That tender scent of hospitality

Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi


For his multi-faceted classic Roman style of perfumery, Lorenzo Villoresi is a distinct face in perfume realm while his art is intimated with conceptual expression of smell. Villoresi's style is commonplace among Italians: botanical, nature-loving, dramatic, and clear type of fragrances which are more like to be ancient pharmaceutical and aromatherapic formulas remained chest to chest from ancient Aegean civilizations till today. Every time I try a perfume from Villoresi I feel hearing opera from a remote open space few streets away (not about Alamut, it's a composition carrying his signature but not a Villoresi perfume in my idea).
Yerba or yerba maté is a variety of evergreen tea (not actually a tea relevant species, but only a green beverage softly steamed by boiling water) from holly family widespread in south and central American continent, in Bolivia, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, partially Brazil, and also in Syria and Lebanon to which the plant is imported from Argentina. The plant is a shrub that grows up to about 15 meters till it forms like a tree. It is believed that leaves and twigs of maté contain considerable amount of caffeine for that the beverage is a traditional energetic drink.


Tea, in every culture, is emblem of hospitality. Its smell is inviting; any kind of tea is so. Just like Yerbamate which blooms out with simple and strong herbaceous welcoming aura that evokes sense of trust and friendship. The intro of the fragrance is on bitter and super realistic hay and grassy mate mingled with Villoresi's famous special spice mixtures. He's definitely a chef in perfume world. For his special blends of greens, spices, and woodsy compositions he has a developed and seriously experienced nose to detect and decypher and reassemble all the smells in 3D quality: all integrated yet apparently detectable. That's the reason I have to take hat off for his efforts and knowledge.
As usual Villoresi's implemented notes are crowded as an bazaar: fresh green and lemony notes, tea, aromatic herbs, maté, mint, tarragon, rosewood, ylang ylang, green notes, herbs, hay, lavender, galbanum, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, aromatic woods, a touch of powder and spices.


Foods and breads, drinks, music, customs... these are what people and cultures around the world are significant for. These are our identity, our spirit and intangible heritages. Isn't beautiful to capture an important part of identity of a culture and form it to perfume language and introduce it to world? Perfume by far is message in a bottle and Villoresi keenly knows it by heart. Of course perhaps not everyone can send this message in its favorable literal format as Villoresi speaks with his nose. His creations are simple and straight to heart; maybe for that they are exciting and alluring.
Yerbamate grows towards the heart getting far from herbal shop atmosphere. This is rather complicated than to match words to sensation.  Bitter creamy lavender, grassy dryness swelled with mentholated tea and sprinkled with chopped tarragon and twigs of hay, filtered and woodened by Villoresi's magic wound: rosewood. The vibrant excitement of the initiation is not settled but its bold bitterness which inherits from mate is like happiness of having guests in your home! I love it so much!


Yerbamate is a fine fragrance that evokes sense of trust and it's not a little thing for a perfume. It is fresh stingy grassy, realistic and autumnal, nostalgic and classical, casual and identical. A type of lover or like perfume; I believe that no ont would hate it. It has about 8 hours of longevity on my skin over a sample vial and I'm sure if it was spray sample it would stay even more and perform better. Not a type of easy fragrance to blind buy but definitely one of a kind perfume in tea and green range.

Carpe Odor!

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Vetiver catwalk!

Vetiver catwalk!
Lampblack by Bruno Fazzolari
vs
Vétiver Extraordinaire by Frédéric Malle


This is not a post to identify two biggest vetiver perfumes, nor a post to compare two great vetiver and see which is good and which better and so on. This is a review on two distinctly different vetiver perfumes, totally out of each other's world and this is why I chose them. First it was going to be a review exclusively on Lampblack but I noticed as an indie with less than a couple of years age it is precisely and faultlessly described by other bloggers so I didn't find it requisite to put another brick on the wall. Therefore, I picked an issue to present two different gems of vetiver world together to make the fun bigger!
At one side, Lambblack, a postmodern artistic form of vetiver breaks the ground, at the other side, the same classical pure vetiver in its natural form is showcased by a billionaire heir of East India Company, Mr. Extraordinary! Both are jaw dropping, both are premium and the best in their own group.



Bruno Fazzolari Lampblack


Without annotation about Bruno Fazzolari's artistic career and paintings, I go directly to the perfume which is the result of his efforts in perfumery as an indie perfumer.
Lampblack, so as named, is an intellectual twist on vetiver. This perfume is freshness absolute, a postmodern mythical humor with fresh happy yet Hades type of blackness and frosted smoky tranquility which dark smoky vibe of kerosene lamp soot is injected to the scent and is not potentially from the composition. This reminds me a very underrated but overly-sold-in-time perfume: Lalique Encre Noire delivered in 2006 by Nathalie Lorson. Yet there are bold differences in scent patterns.
Lampblack starts with corrosive and savory nuances of freshened smoky woodsy vetiver escorted by unzesty grapefruit and black pepper which amplify freshness and smokiness, respectively. There is a paradoxical theatrical moody personality: sadness and happiness. Happiness is for elements of opening which are grapefruit and pepper and what makes vetiver poetically and drizzling gloomy is cypriol for its Hamlet character syndrome. With these few simple elements of ingredients plus some others responsible for slight sweetness of dry out, Bruno Fazzolari has interpreted a new definition and a buzz name in vetiver perfumery.
I've received many bright compliments while wearing it on my backhand for testing which also showed how great and vast is sillage and how strong is longevity.
Minimal and innovative stylish earthy smoky vetiver which has special room in my top ten vetiver list.



Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire


I believe there is a schism in vetiver dominated perfumes. Two types: one group is vetiver-dominated but not solid vetiver like Lampblack, Serge Lutens Vetiver Original and Comme des Garçons Wonderoud, the other side holds solid vetiver play which considerably holds larger number of people. This type of vetiver is its classical and traditional form like as it's presented from the orient back in days. Linear, solid, ongoing and mature like a dandy man in his 35 to 40. Yet there are two undeniable realities about vetiver; first that it's not  feminine ingredient, second that it is so overpowering so it perceptibly surpasses all the elements of composition. There are too many creations for this group and dramatically legendary Guerlain Vetiver is the most renown.
Vétiver Extraordinaire evokes the utmost level of satisfactory when solid vetiver fans must take note. This last year and these days I'm not satisfied with solid vetivers and I gave away my vintage Guelrain Vetiver to my brother cause solid vetiver perfumes perform so linearly and so long lasting that make me exhausted, but recently got my nose on this vetiver and...
Alongside to those noble emblematic vetivers, Vétiver Extraordinaire is an utterly luxurious gem. Chic, dandy, high class, standard and formal. Formal, I mention cause normally vetiver expose a hippie orientalist humility and thug life mate kind of smell, free, unashamed and modest monk'ish. But Dominique Ropion's perfume has hidden or overcome that side and tamed the vetiver into tuxedo and bowtie to agree with everyone.
The beginning of Vétiver Extraordinaire is on citrus verge and bold pepper notes (for some aspects I feel white pepper not pink as listed). Very slight hint of classic citrus reveals a dose of neroli while it's camouflaged by modern take of bitter orange. Soon after, vetiver shows up and its classic tailor cut royal and wealthy. This is the moment of pure joy and comfort. This nose-petting fluffy frosty vetiver linearly plays till the drydown, which is a warm, resinous, woody air, and its freshness is never reduced from the beginning to the end.
Moderately fair longevity and enticing soft sillage, not convincingly strong.
Auric quality royal and Maybach-mate vetiver.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, June 22, 2015

Fig carnival!

Fig vs. Fig vs. Fig
L'Arbre de la Connaissance by Jovoy Paris
Figuier by James Heeley
Philosykos by Diptyque


These last times I found fig a very concrete and overpowering ingredient which I to encounter from the beginning and discover its beauty. After my almost first serious meet with fig in perfumery in Thierry Mugler's incomparable art; Womanity, I dug for more and more figs from designers to niches and so on and I found three very near comparable perfumes all by accident in three different times: James Heely Figuire which I tried a couple of years ago, Diptyque Philosykos that was introduced for first this last autumn, and Jovoy Paris L'Arbre de la Connissance which I tested for first a week ago by the time I'm writing this article; and upon which I reshuffled my drawers to pick out Figuier and Philosykos to see whether if I'm getting or not the right point about their resemblance.
Fig is an assertive fruit, both physically and aromatically. It has strong astringent appetizing green acidic acrid sweet vision. For such uncommon taste and smell (every time I smell or eat a fig I feel it comes from another planet!) fig is one of the most adorable and uplifting fruits that treats like no other fruit in perfumery. Actually fruity tag usually bring silly plain and shallow lollipop smells to mind but fig acts like a zested wood, complicated and an amplifier. Maybe it is for this unusual manner that the fruit is sacred in some cultures, the fruit of lust according to some others, and considered as tree of philosophers in some believes. However it is, it has a face that I love and it's Pan's naughtiness plus Dionysos's comfort plus Pluto's wisdom all together.



L'Arbre de la Connaissance


What a good title for a fig woodsy perfume portraying fig tree's twisted and thick flexible root and broad smiling light velvety leaves. L'Arbre de la Connaissance (The Tree of Knowledge) has certain facet of fig tree; too much fig and fig leaf to show up a natural touch. This is the drawback of fig: unless collaborating with some sweetness, it reveals the synthetic side of accord and Jovoy's fig is so. L'Arbre is exclusively presentation of green notes and green side of raw stony figs with acidic metallic atmosphere that illustrates postmodern fresh electronic music of big parties. It's actually way too active and energetic to be a philosophical perfume.
The opening of the fragrance is a bit repulsing till few minutes when it settles in unassured good or bad type of fresh gourmand smell with vivid vibrant colors of Benetton.
L'Arbre on my skin has medium longevity and strong sillage and for citric play in the opening and sandalwood accord in the end which brings smoothness to fig, it is either a party smell or a feminine daily signature scent. Not formal, not official nor definitely the best by Jovoy. This is Pan's fig! Pool party informal fresh fig.


Figuire


Figuier is a complex monotonic fragrance ironically or purposefully modestly named simply fig. I found this one more enjoyable and easy to wear for both sides while I think although the opening goes more masculine the dry down goes more for ladies.
The opening of Figuier is not so distinct to what happens in L'Arbre. Same acidic acrid bombastic smell; here charged with delicious melon. Melon appears at the beginning and surprisingly it stays for long. For some aspects of it, Figuier resembles Carnal Flower in some minor detail that come from naughty melon. Fig leaf in Figuire is round and refined, not edgy and sharp like in L'Arber though it is reinforced by active rhuburb. It has aquatic savory visions and less crispy than over-crisp L'Arbre. Figuier is a vegan type of fig (referring that fig has a meat-mate smell that fits any kind of meat gastronomy) and it is provided by fresh and vivid grassy notes: some vegetable plus fresh hay. I said everything significant about the perfume but honestly all this glamorous opening is nothing when the glorious dry down appears. The complete fragrance is fluffy and aerial heavenly lazy smell of ambergris (if I'm not misguided by melon) plus fig leaf. This is cold golden sand under cool shade of broad palm leaves and that vague lullaby of sea in your sleepy head; what a pleasure!
Figuire has strong and satisfying longevity with enormous sillage on my skin. This is Dionysos's fig! Enjoyable memorial summer evening fig.



Philosykos


This is way different to the other two examples. Philosykos is the most natural, or let's say the most loyal-to-nature one among the trio (as expected from Diptyque).
With some fat rounded balmy bubbly smell of something aquatic it initiates towards transformation of saltless marine vibe to fig outfit. The punchy opening has a floral definition plus strange unlovable yet pure natural smell of greens. It's not green nor fresh or bouncing; it is dramatic and dreamy. The fig which patiently appears a bit later since application has ripe and sweet happy quality which is sun-oiled and sun-bathed by coconut. Coconut, you know its downright amazing gastronomical dense oily smell. It boosts warmly and reminds nothing but summertime and sexy body! Now one who's not tested Philosykos might think that what a wonderful sexy blind buy which is definitely not under any circumstances! Usually you don't have to expect sexiness or kind of charm from Diptyque. Actually it is controlled by camphorated notes to not be sexy but be natural. Philosykos is leafy fluffy watery rounded evening perfume with non sweet fig and green opening and a little bit sweet core which coconut and fig leaf smell a bit like watermelon in fridge. Camphorous, leafy, freshening but not sporty or kiddish, stylish and identical. Maybe not my cup of tea cause this definitely sits more on feminine side from top to toe, but notably a great scent.
What is graceful about Philosykos is its linear performance on monotonic integrated pattern, long lasting performance and great sillage. By the way, it's upon my EDT version.
This is Pluto's fig! Mature and grown formal fig.

Carpe Odor!

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Ambre Fétiche, what a name!

Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal


Ambre Fétiche, what a name! The title is descriptive about everything inside, you may think, but in a way it is one of those controversial titles that unfit expectations yet make a perfume easily a smash hit. Ambre Fétiche is such a perfume no matter yet how bad or good is the liquid itself.
It's typically a type of amber accord that makes me wish it was still winter; if and only if it would be presented in more favorable quality and strength! Ambre Fétiche is a versatile amber fragrance mainly usable in cold weather not only because it presents warm pattern like heavy velvet blanket, but also for such warmth it needs cold weather to emerge the rightest romantic feel.
The birth of the fragrance is simply marvelous with mushy and soft dirty animalic barky vibes mingled with sweet ambry accord, plasticy and somehow delicious. It's charming and intoxicating but I personally like the dry down when intrigant warm sensual frankincense appears in juxtaposition to vanillish amber and leather and provides omen immense woodsy air. This instant yet long lasting powerful dry down which I like to call core, is a matter of aesthetics in olfactory realm. This incense firework is not that unique to not be found anywhere else but it has bold character and also bold prestige and class; an olfactory equivalence of Fifty Shades of Grey.


The fragrance now settled in sort of spectacular beauty of wooden smoky mist like a carpentry studio full of interesting things made in leisure. Lush vanilla, styrax and labdanum form the identity of jewelry amber. The mesmerizing part of this play is incense married to ambry accord and iris powder vibe that together are the reality and the identity of Ambre Fétiche.
Ambre Fétiche has mellow longevity, doesn't project much and is fairly close to skin in it's short lifespanKind of warm fluffy wooden and gourmand vanilla in middle of fierce leather labdanum; all presented in whispering quality, yet entitled fancily and grouped under rather fancier series name (Les Orientaistes) to enchant you nevertheless, the reality is when you unpack your purchase in home and try to love it and omit uncertainties about the quality.
Safe amber, good fair warm welcoming smell but silly projection.

Carpe Odor!

Friday, June 19, 2015

The power of wealth

Pétroleum by Histoires de Parfums


Symbolizing the essence of the earth with plants, animals and minerals, Gerald Ghislain, the innovative creator of the house of Histoires de Parfums has works out on his Éditions Rare with three rhapsodic creation named after minerals, animals and plants: Ambrarem, Pétroleum, and Rosam; respectively.
Pétroleum is a symbol of fossilized animals that turned into liquid black gold; the sign of wealth and power. Beside the other two which are floral (vegetal) and ambry (mineral), Pétroleum is faunal of the trio (some reviewers believe Ambrarem is animalic and Pétroleum is mineral).
The notes are: oud, bergamot, aldehyde, rose, amber accords, civet accord, leather, patchouli, white musk.
The opening of Pétroleum is on an eerie gourmand vibe that springs out with sweetened labdanum and powdery naphthalene feel in the depth that slides to feminine world. The animalic nuances of the perfume appear. It's like olfactory tracks of an animalic sex party occurred in an exotic candy shop several hours ago! The very opening punches you in face: Pétroleum is not a random niche perfume, it's a special perfume for special people and special occasions. Before this quaint and mesmerizing opening shift and swerve to masculinity, a journey of rosy stream passes through the entire perfume.


The base is much safer yet the quirky oud and translucent aldehyde accords highly impose the leather and ambry notes of the basement; oh did I forget to introduce civet buddy? Yes, the skeleton of Pétroleum is on animalic powdery feelings highly imparted by oud and aldehyde. One thing before I forget, I read here and there among blogs and forums that oud is known the focal element of the fragrance. Honestly, I don't see it to be that big to overwhelm leather, civet, or amber accords. I don’t say there's no oud or it's that pale that can be considered zero, it is there and it is performing throughout the entire duration but it and its medicinal presence are so moderated. Therefore, I do not call Pétroleum an oud fragrance. It is apparently animalic. Another thing I found not really fitting about this venomous perfume is defining Pétroluem with the smell of gasoline. Well we all know the sharp tinnery candy-like smell of gasolines, with lead, without lead, high octane, super fuel etc. But does any of them smell like animalic nuances of a perfume? In fact none of the gasoline types nor gas oil nor even petroleum itself, raw and impure, smell any similar coherence. The success key Mr. Ghislain reached is to imitate the highest illusion of petroleum smell without any factual resemblance.
To me, more than to be sexy Pétroleum is a charming and attractive fragrance made for special times. Not so public, not so friendly, it smells like someone having his (I still do believe it's much masculine) own overpowering business so he wear whatever he wishes. Very rich, very identical and very vibrant with over twelve hours longevity before it dries to a close-to-skin level, and considerable vast sillage.
This perfume is presented in 60ml eau de parfum, 125€ just like the other two siblings (Éditions Rare has actually two series; the other series include gold bottles of Veni and Vici and Vidi).

Carpe Odor!

Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Le nez d’Or

Les Nombres d’Or by Mona di Orio


It is hard to explain Mona di Orio's olfactory world in just an intro paragraph of a jam review for four fragrances, but I may start this way that it happened for the first by Cuir this winter which blew my head away: immense severe yet gigantic luxurious animality that I still believe it cannot be born by a woman! My journey began and I looked for a bunch of her perfumes, talking with some people who I knew for their interest and enthusiasm in Orio's arts and so I've been suggested to start with her paramount collection Les Nombres d'Or. I publish my review with female pictures for each perfume not because I found the scents feminine but to emphasize the load of delicacy and luxury the perfumes deliver.


Musc


What Musc says is all about skin. Musc is a type of clean and skin-mate fragrance with dreamy floral and semi-vintage art nouveau style, highly fashionable and easy to wear. In contrary to the other animalic item of the seires; Cuir; it is fragile and soothing that one may want baptize with and smell it infinitely and divinely.
Musc opens with crisp saline floral theme based on angelica's bitterness, rose's metallic depth and of course the queen of the night: heliotrope. In the middle of way when the unfloral opening of flowers settles, musky note appears; soft alluring and astonishing. But what links these all powerful undialectic parties together is coumarin accord which delivers fluffy mood and versatility to potentially beasty composition. One thing is not listed anywhere but I apparently capture is vanilla in the middle of performance mingled with heliotrope which reduces its plasticy air to rounded ambiance. Is that this hidden vanilla bonus that makes Musc this glorious?
Seemingly Musc is a skin qualifier perfume, stays for long on one's skin and short about 3 hours on one other's. I'm one with the others! And for its sillage it's not a type of fragrance to leave a trail or enormously bloom out, it nebulously embrace around you. Yet, a brilliant animalic based floral night fur.



Vétyver


Simply named and thoroughly composed with minilalistic notes; Vétyver is a gem.
Unsurprisingly Vétyver does not bloom with recognizable touch of vetiver as usually happens in perfumes which contain the element in high amount. It opens out with high-amplified spice and citric play on classic cool fougére and chypré mood. Creamy fresh but burning. This theme draws vetiver up which is not fresh, not silly nor simple monotonic like most of those vetiver dominated fragrances that present it incessantly as bold as no one has ever discovered before and it is the first in history that vetiver and human come in a cross point in perfume realm.
Vétyver is vetiver cooked by fiery dragon's breath and warmed up with fresh smoldering ginger, sweat like herbaceous clary sage and incense behavior of cedar. Vetiver in Vétyver is quite mature, plush, and ornamented unlike barefooted Guerlain Vetiver which more than a fragrance is like a souvenir from India. Certainly for this approach to the root it probably loses some fanatics of unpolished vetiver cause this element in its raw form is quite charming among groups of people.
White musky vetiver and fresh spicy oriental damp. Vétyver is very long lasting, very strong and punchy and it spreads about a meter around.


Ambre


Ambre; straight in one word; is a Middle Eastern luxury gem. This is way different to many amber perfumes I know. I like Mona di Orio's abstractions and twisting notes for simple names. There's a playful releasable prototype in her collection mush higher than many complete fragrances.
It is spicy crude-petroleum-like benzoin/labdanum (it is mentioned ylang ylang, I'm afraid I'm getting labdanum) amber married to tolu balsam which gives it stony powdery definition and vanilla which smoothens the entire faunic performance. Also cedar which like a politician stays at back but greatly influence the resinous gesture, shows up in the middle towards dry down when tolu balsam's Play-Doh type of smell intensifies.
Ambre is not a mist around you, it is a character itself and it insists its presence. It is juxtaposition of cluster of notes merged in a central core that looks impenetrable; a simple yet fourhand creation to signify that art is probable with few elements around not thorough complexity, and how gorgeous Mona di Orio created such complexity out of simple elements.
Ambre is mellow in longevity, about 5 hours not considering the fully vanilla ylang ylang dry down that sits close to skin to give it a divine sexy cladding. The projection of the fragrance is soft and misty, vaporizes around like heat of body and envelops close to skin.


Vanille


Cucumber pickle smell of the beginning whiff of Vanille surprised me and made me intensely curious about this perfume and why is the modest random title chosen for such complexity; which increases no curiosity at all? Am I smelling a distinct type of vanilla from a bygone barely visited Polynesian island? Honestly I was expecting a generic vanilla smell with Teddy bear type of fluffiness but this is one of a kind and a distinct composition on vanilla not on top of elements. This is how vanilla should smell in a Ferrari.
I realized that this boozeless boozy opening on crispy crunchy notes is all happened by metamorphosis rum implements in bitter orange and what a citrus! I love bitter orange deep by my heart but frankly I have not seen any better and purer bitter orange in entire perfume world.
I found Vanille an Italian perfume, very Hellenistic. Simple and masterly crafted, very pleasant and nature-loyal. It is based on elemental ingredients of perfumery and just like the other gems of the collection it has the same gold and bronze quality of notes composed on few elements and strong personality. Seem she wanted to approve how a golden nose works.
Vanille is a spicy bomb, fresh smoldering and yummy crispy. The citric opening of the fragrance is highly occupied by booze and then cloves (also I apparently get star anise) that evokes the crisp savory smell; no place for vanilla and woodsy army of the skeleton yet. The transformation of first chapter to what I called a vanilla baroque art is x-faded with lowering citric booze and intensifying vanilla and woods.
This is for sure the best among these four I tested these days. Vanille is way classified, artistic, aesthetic and poetic. I'm totally satisfied and beyond by longevity and sillage which separate it to a higher class.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, June 15, 2015

From India to Tehran

Royal Oud by Creed

“Wood, leather marble and gold,” elements of a royal Persian palace, inspired Olivier Creed, sixth-generation master perfumer for his Royal Oud creation. Rare, hypnotic, sumptuous oud, an ingredient coaxed from agarwood trees of India (and more costly per ounce than palladium) lends its power to this blend. Creed Royal Oud gives the contemporary American man and woman a touch of the splendor of palace life, Persian and Parisian.
This was the declaration of the house of Creed on Royal Oud. In 2011 the house has announced for their last creation by Oliver Creed the Sixth Generation. Type of vise-versa fragrance much distinct to what Creed is renown for. Oud? Creed? This was a part of responses of those disheartened by oud overload to the news while the other side who believed Creed approaches the oud trend successfully was celebrating it. I was in the second party believing a house with about 250 years of experience won't spoil himself just for being a part of new arrival oud market fever and I think I'm right.
It is said the inspiration source of Royal Oud is Sa'd Abad palace in Tehran (a complex of official and ceremonial palaces which were in use by the Iranian royal courts since Qajars epoch (1785-1924 AD) until the revolution and decay of Pahlavi kingdom in Iran in 1979). This complex is constructed in north part of Tehran on 300 hectares area including 18 palaces and about 185 hectares pure nature. My assumption on Oliver Creed's inspirational palace where he indicates to gold and marble is one of the Pahlavi palaces which is truly sumptuous.

This is not a picture of Sa'd Abad Palace. I couldn't find a decent picture in my archives so I picked this photo of Niavaran Palace (again in north part of Tehran) from a Flickr profile.

Personally I do love walking in north part of Tehran under vast cooling shades of enormous old sycamores rowed in front of wealthy mansions, hearing ravens croak and gentle sound of water coming from springs and rivers floating in lonely and tranquil narrow rural streets of this paradoxical nostalgic uptown. For these images beside some authentic identical places Tehran is a different city tattooed in my heart forever. And how gorgeously Mr. Creed illustrates the beaut and identity of the city and he delivered it using Indian oud wood. But the palace is not represented by a solid oud fragrance rather, I found Royal Oud even more elaborate and opulent to be a solid oud oriented.
The birth of the fragrance is on citrus infused and juiced pepper: a bit effervescent, a bit stinky and fresh crunchy. This peppery vibe is highly washed with ephemeral lemon as pure as the fruit itself, and freshened and soapy by bergamot. This is welcoming beginning of a fragrance that goes deep in a plush magnificent woodsy heart. The heart of the fragrance is still infatuated by pepper while the empire of cedar has just begun. Royal Oud although is not an oud dominant fragrance but for this high level woodsy oud based cedar oriented manner rises above what could be with solid oud.


Lush spicy cedar settles. Crisp like ocher yellow crumpled sycamore leaves under my feet. Dry like summer of Tehran. Spicy like croaks of ravens that echo in void between huge venerable sycamores and cypresses. And dramatic and nostalgically luxurious like all those polished marble walls and stairs of asleep palaces which it's been years since they reflected splendor of gold crown of a queen for the last time.
The floor of Royal Oud is even bitterer like the decline of a kingdom or death of hero of a play. Galbanum and oud draw the heavy velvet curtain and close the scene.
Royal Oud has persuading good longevity on my skin about 4 hours. with more that average projection that stays close nobly and gently. King size oud.

Carpe Odor!

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Brutal zestless incense

Interlude for men by Amouage


Amouage is Walt Disney of Arab perfumery world. Comparing to authentic Arabian perfume houses it made a portfolio with Arabian themes presented in a global benchmark and launched universally. By the other mean, it produces high level crowd pleasing perfumes that brought them the success of being the most famous sign of Arabian peninsula in entire perfume realm. Oman is a rich country in balsamic notes. Yearly, it produces many sort of incenses and balsamic notes not only for perfumery. There is not surprise when Amouage perfumes unlike many Arabian ones are based on spice and incense. Interlude is the summit point of the method. A chaotic dense multifaceted incense spicy woody fragrance with too much things to construct a tremendous fragrance (by the time of this last editing on my draft a friend has said that the new version is not that enormous). It is always considered a success point in Amouage standard portfolio. Interlude is delivered by Pierre Negrin in 2012 which is believed to be the same father of other Amouage perfumes since there's a common vein in all the creations.
Interlude is a hardcore incense fragrance with polygonal character. It initiates with charismatic vibe of severe masculinity based on immense gassy peppery vibe tamed by citric note. The notes in the opening are intense and carbonated that makes the opening way harsh yet promising of persuading incense heart. It's all supervised by resinous sweet myrrh which injects soft sweet balsamic smoky mist to the aggressive rioters of the intro.


Frankincense in this fragrance has overlooked rendition that unlike many of ambry or resinous fragrances does not illustrate that caramelized brown yummy color; it is dark and gray petroleum blue/green colored in my mind, a little gloomy shade on the bottle color.
The chest of the fragrance is not harsh like opening disorder. It is now monstrous dark indigo gray smoke composed upon balsamic notes swelled by leather accord; bitter and merciless; and accented with efficient agarwood and sandalwood. I listed too much notes and too much descriptions right? So Interlude is that confusing as the notes I wrote for!
Interlude is an active multifaceted solid incense icon programmed to satisfy every kind of incense fan in all. It presents many forms of incense in common plus leather and oud and savory crisp. What else an intense incense lover wants? But in spite of all its majestic attributions I found this dense and complicated woven structure a drawback of Interlude cause it takes away one thing that is so important for fragrance: character. Interlude is like someone who shouts with loud voice and all he says is nonsense. Too much incense, too much woodsy, too much leather and too much spice, so one term I can't use to describe Interlude is delicate. It's a mystic ritual zestless stony incense.


It stays more than expected on skin; about 16 hours on my skin with no serious lack or looseness in sillage which is so strong. However, its projection is another matter of worry for me cause for such vulgar incense I wish less projection power. It is more than filling a room in just few seconds and leaves a huge trilling trail behind. Yet it is an indiscernible fragrance for every incense fan.

Carpe Odor!

Saturday, June 13, 2015

Post-industrial olfactive philosophical silence

Pekji: aromagraphy

Ömer İpekçi is a new face in perfume world from Istanbul. His efforts is perfumery and smell realm concluded in his personal indie house named after his surname: PekjiÖmer is a graphic artist and illustrator and an experimental perfumer as he introduces himself a "self-made guy". This apparently shows a big deal in the trend that we're observing more and more indies and experimental houses join perfume world.


The term "niche" which was almost unknown for most part of the world of perfume lovers about two or three decades ago (just as uncommon as reviewing perfumes with limited capability of internet and unfashionability of scent art back in days) is now a commonplace randomly given title to any new coming house engaging with a bigger sponsor in Esxence catwalk. This vast ocean of shops encourages several houses to join so-called niche market and grow toward luxury no matter whether how good or mediocre quality is.
Happily soon after, parallel to that, the gap of "what about quality?" that overnight brands left is fulfilled with people responsible to their personal interests in fragrance toiling for love in first and not money; we don't name them but a big part of this deal is merged in indies. Beside this fact, I love unlimited experimental innovations indies express; for such qualification there's an extended list of hardcore perfumers on top of which Slumberhouse and Olympic Orchids are flags on Sagarmatha. Pekji is one of those I have to point straight out with finger to example for those innovative freehand perfumers and a new face in perfume world with strong step at the beginning of its journey. Honestly I'm so happy that I discovered the line and am one of the first who writes about it.


For me all five perfumes has a common blood that makes me excited and it is kind of post-industrial olfactive philosophical silence in a crazily crowded metropole like Istanbul. It's like being deaf in heart of Taksim square, like being a pigeon napping on edge of a rusty tin roof of an old republican building near the salty water and oily rats of the harbor that hosts lazy broad-breasted ships. It does not mean the scents have feel of fresh relaxing mood; not at all; in contrary; they are sleeping dragons. They are charged with rebel metropolitan feel but not being infected by crawling in chaotic livelihood syndrome. Pekji perfumes are not what fit the words, they are all mandatory to test; perfumes to approve "art is not resulted only by complete shelves of ingredients".
“Odors have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances, emotions, or will. The persuasive power of an odor cannot be fended off, it enters into us like breath into our lungs, it fills us up, imbues us totally. There is no remedy for it.”
Patrick Süskind
Das Parfum: The Story of a Murderer



Ruh


My humble compliments to Ruh (literally means soul). This is one of a kind floriental gem. This fragrance is so edgy and heady with type of immensely attractive/repulsive floral pattern. Type of desiccated smoke-cured rose coffee fragrance with freshly cropped cardamom and saffron dressing. How deliberately he come with saffron's reality. I adore it. I'm a saffron expert by blood. It's our tradition, a part of our diet, a part of our culture and hospitality. I know many saffrons by smell and what I scarcely seen in saffron based perfumes is presenting saffron's medicinal vibe which in my opinion is its beauty and identity but being afraid to make skank atmosphere it is usually emitted while making the accords. Ömer loyally lets the spice live its own way and saffron in return delivers his Ruh a peculiar and unique inexperienced dimension. Another factor that makes Ruh precious is remarkable overlapping of rose with saffron and oud and spice catalyst. The spicy theme evolves into type of fluffy naphthalene mood: powdery, smoldering ambery and aldehydic. It is the spicy feel that elaborates mainstream rose to a vibrant artistic level for which I gains my bravo! Yet with these all Ruh is a mainstream creation of Pekji considering the other ones!
Ruh has about five hours longevity on my skin and soft floating projection with about 2 feet diameter to make it a close contact beauty; a personal take of rose and saffron.


Eaumer


Here's a pretty play with words: eau mer (sea water) and it's resemblance to Ömer and summer. Eaumer is an aquatic fragrance totally irrelevant to what Alberto Morillas has delivered for Bvlgari.
Eaumer is crisp and effervescent saline citric green leafy with bold petitgrain and probably bergamot and neroli that swirls into dusty frosted inexplicable type of poetic marine vibe which I had experience in L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme composed by Jacques Cavallier in1994 for Issey Miyake. By this category I have to classify three aquatic classes: one is transparent like Bvlgari Acqua Pour Homme, another group contains salty seaweedy creations as James Heeley Sel Marin, and now this frosty salty group; crispy and savory salty. A backstage of fresh gasoline smell (I have to thank Alfarom for giving the idea in his review) is the link point of metamorphose of the citric glassy opening to agile tingling vetiver in the basement. I'm not normally convinced by vetiver this last times as this element goes too much selfish and linear and exhausting sometimes but Eaumer offers very expert arrangement of notes with x-fade edges of one layer to another. Vetiver appears in the right moment and last for the persuading durability.
Unlike most of aquatic colognes Eaumer is a stubborn one to fly. This potentially meets half of expectations of summery aquatic lovers who are mainly disheartened by notoriously poor longevity of summer colognes and commonplace crowdpleasing sportish party smells. The other good news is it has vast sillage too.


Holy Shit


Holy Shit is not an easy perfume to carry on, neither the title nor the smell. It's a type of perfume requires complete dedication and self-assured personality to wear otherwise; honestly; don't even go with it cause it's playing with lion's tail. I have to confess as a weirdo perfume lover that it's been a long time I have not been surprised like this.
Holy Shit is a strong solid animalic hardcore incomparable to any type I know cause even the most brutal examples present capability and versatility a perfume needs to be worn but Holy Shit is not easy to wear perfume, this is a museum of smell in a bottle.
Holy Shit opens with trenchant powdery leather smell just as alive as an animal: warm, breathing and unashamedly realistic. This kinky animalic show is the main theme of the fragrance and it makes me wonder how such gigantic molecule performs from alpha to omega of the fragrance. I'm afraid to call it leathery or musky. A generic term of animality may be the only definition which comes in handy cause this theme is not a known benchmark; definitely a astringent odd kind of smell. However, it develops toward sweet balsamic addition that makes the overall composition smelling like corn baked on smoldering coal! Yes this is the point. Baked corn and animality, like a manger full of chewed corns and intense permanent olfactory track of bulky pigs who left the place already.
I can talk about this perfume few paragraphs more and describe it precisely step by step but it is not helping and I strongly advice do not buy without testing. This is perfume not for perfume lovers, nor for niche lovers, or indie lovers, etc. but only for daring expert perfumistas. It has higher than enormous longevity on my skin and great projection but not that vast to make you worry to smell like a character jumped out from George Orwell's The Animal Farm.



Cuir6


Leather is luxury and unavoidably charming and this must be the leather. This is damn good! Gave me an olfactory orgasm! Cuir 6 is definitive step in leather without going beyond the borders of melancholy and logic with wealthy gothic nuances. The utmost wearability a leather perfume can go further and a type of fragrance one may hate of love and nothing in between.
Chamois leather smudged with gasoline splatter rubbed off from engine of a steampunk tuned truck. This is Mad Max in olfactory world. A brilliant monstrous concoction of birch, musky leather, saffron and probably delicious labdanum.
The opening is so hard and aggressive yet elaborate and bravely conducted. Again the gasoline vibe of blue gray smell of half burnt fuel in early winter morning makes the perfume much deeper than what was in the opening. It settles and spicy ambry tone comes up. For long time I was stunned by Histoires de Parfums Pétroleum since I'm crazy for smell of petrol but this one.... A friend once suggested me for careful use of "masterpiece" for every perfume I love but what else shall I call it?
Cuir 6 is dark powdery dusty leather spice opener that settles in modern chypré leathery skeleton. One side it presents hints of classic leathers, one side it goes with hard rock head.
Cuir 6 has strong longevity and sillage on marvelous hardcore opening and then it stay misty around you when it settles down in gentle but corrupt pornographic manner! It's one of a kind.



Odoon


Odoon (odun in Turkish means firewood), last but not least is an incense oriented fragrance. My first impression on my first try on Odoon was not really convincing. I was expecting an immense woodsy fragrance by the title but then in subsequent testings I realized it has sufficient incense potential yet not very convincing for my Gothic taste but quite impressive for public.
Odoon according to those other siblings is the most decent and acceptable one. It opens with vinegar smoky balsamic plugged-in woodsy plasticy aura. The opening and the overall design for its incredible wood camouflaged incense reminds me of two similar examples not for the woodsy side of the fragrance but for its arc-welding smoke variation: Comme des Garçons Black and Amouage Fate men.
Personally if I was in his shoes.... I don't know what I would to do but I feel something is missing! Yet I somehow am not convinced by this last one but you don't take it on account cause this is my personal point of view and comes from experiencing weird and arguably artistic fragrance I did. Odoon is yet much higher than expectation of a mediocre perfume love level.
Again like all the creations of the house I have nothing to add to your worries about longevity and sillage, both on top.


Final words; Ömer İpekçi has my second bravo this time for the packaging. Now this is quite normal that an architect obsess with design and appearance. Aesthetic factor of a perfume is what I highly concern with. One thing I seriously cannot take about indies (although I have many friends from this this range) is their poor bottle design criteria with almost any random circular or rectangular based bottle and low quality printed tags. Pekji, for graphic artistic background of the designer, covers this lack with kraft box design, simple yet convincing for a set of post modern fragrances.

Carpe Odor!