Friday, July 24, 2015

Haute couture

Le Parfum Couture by M. Micallef

A fancy cube bottle covered by smooth cocoon of black Chantilly lace filled with Jean-Claude Astier's gold honey colored juice inside is the result of collaboration of the perfume house of Micallef and haute couture fashion house of Denis Durand unveiled in March 2013 in Cannes and released limitedly. An oriental floral fragrance based on rose and necessary note of orient; patchouli. It is in my opinion, the best I tried from the house of M.Micallef.
The fragrance springs out with vibrant juicy citrus infused cinnamon and honey. The two notes apparently shine like sun over ocean and it is tangerine note that luxuriates and gives it a delightful loose. Since the application the muse of the playground; Bulgarian rose; sings out deliberately. Tangerine submerges and Ceylon cinnamon and honey's warmth swirl into orange blossom that balances both the fever of spicy side and watery juicy rose side. I'm infatuated by the rose vibe of the fragrance and how they tamed watery metallic side of rose which is my phobia! Specially Turk and Bulgarian roses.
Beside to Tauer PHI which I called "a rose perfume not for rose lovers but for rose phoblics", Le Parfume Couture tells the same story and in fact they are sisters, however, PHI is mush dustier, denser, wilder, and the its rose is authentic and unique. Le Parfume Couture, on the other hand, is soft soothing with random type of rose ornamented to the utmost level to become a jewel. And what a gem!
The fragrance gradually and softly goes into the core when the patchouli delivers oriental and twisted apricot-like gourmand dimension. The rose ages down, dusty and powdery, and the elements of the opening charge the spicy sweet throne for the rose queen.
Le Parfum Couture is a jewel perfume. Personally although I don't buy it cause it sits prettily on feminine side but every time I see it in a market I try the cap several times! Boy there is no nicer click sound; not even in Zippo lighters! The metal cap ticks on the thick high quality bottle and that sound is beginning of a luxurious olfactory journey. It's a 50ml eau de parfum for $150 presented in big cube package.

Carpe Odor!

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Faunic splendor

Animality: a review on Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens and Musk Tonkin by Parfums d'Empire

Minotaur kneeling over sleeping women, Pablo Picasso, 1933, Etching

As for pure musky perfumes I found the category vacant. I haven't approach this ostentatious animalistic range for long, so I found a leisure time to pick and interpret what I have tested. I chose two not-so-similar specifically musky creations of art (that does not mean I neglect other cult gems, but I avoid to write on it too much cause musky perfumes are exhausting for many people by default, even in written form) to review and this review is not a comparative study; it is only introducing two different take on musky notes. Two edgy luxurious retro modern animalics; pure and straight to the point; both are famous for their solid animalic themes; both are infamous for majority part of perfume lovers; and both are gigantic.
Musk has always been a cornerstone in perfumery from early ancient times and still (though man-made, though natural; though high level, or cheap) is one of the most necessary ingredients to deepen a composition and give it enchanting dimensions. Yet, when it comes to its solid and dominant form it repulses. Many people cannot bear its smell. One fact that makes musky perfumes repulsive or lesser rated is because circumstances for setting it to outfit is still unclear. Solid musky perfumes are very rigid to wear easily or fashionably. They look formal but their dirty faunic attributions are in high contrast with formality. Rightfully; maybe haste to acquire favorable impact in short time (while musky perfumes perform scratching kinky in opening) is another factor for rejecting.

Muscs Koublaï Khân by Serge Lutens

To begin I pick the one I give utmost compliments to: the notorious faunic skanky creation of Serge Lutens which is a red line of "no trespassing" even for many perfumistas. Once; as I mentioned it in my review on Fille en Aiguilles; a friend declared "Serge Lutens for his mysterious omen atmosphere is David Lynch of perfume realm". Well I prefer to call him Fellini or Bergman for his creativity which is his coat or arms and responsibleness towards quality, since I found his perfumes much maestro crafted than to be mysterious or seductive. Also I found them tamed and quite wearable.

Mythically thick is what Muscs Koublaï Khän says. Thick as fir boots, thick as body of wrestlers, thick as Mogolian throat-singing, and velvety and delicate as silk and fir.
The opening of Muscs Koublaï Khän is highly imposed by Sheldrake's renown cumin (the note that materializes and identifies Serge Lutens perfumes) mingled with civet and musk (I believe there must be beaver's also included cause its corn-like smell gets sharp few minutes after application). For such titanic animality the opening is apparently skanky and it remains so till the heart level of performance.
It's a king size alley of brutality and beaut, integrated and tightly woven within. I might not be a fan of such solid musky performances personally cause I have difficulty to wear, but Muscs Koublaï Khän is one of those I always wanted to have a bell jar in my collection cause whoever tends to animality and leather, would definitely take hat off for such seductive art.
You may not be so impressed by the main theme of opening and half of performance in general but I assured you no one dare to reject the the empirical out-of-this-world musky undertone in core of the fragrance when it eventually settles. It's like rubbing velvet blanket over nude body. I love this aspect of musky fragrances. No other type of fragrance gives me the same aura and pleasure. They are inexpressibly and enigmatically enchanting fragrances. Even a random moderate musky creation like Kiehl's Original Musk gives that fresh warm skin-mate seductiveness.

Muscs Koublaï Khän is a rare type of musky fragrance, a bold and premium special fragrance based on musky-spicy and floral (yet animalic aspects of labdanum and fluffy touch of rose in dry down amplify its eroticism) scaffolding for special audience and special occasion.
I guarantee its longevity to be one of the most adorables; approximately more than a complete day including shower and sleeping. Very keenly and masterly, its sillage is controlled to close distance (about one meter in radius) to not deliver aggressive or coarse features of musk out.
Ancient wealthy pure class musk.

Musk Tonkin by Parfums d'Empire

My review on Musk Tonkin is upon samples of its latest launch (cylinder golden cap not crown one) so some slight things may alter in details but I usually avoid to go through details in my reviews cause the message is always transferred in mass; details are for personal capturing.

Must Tonkin is way different to what happens above. For some particularities it is much wearable and acceptable comparing to Serge Lutens', yet it is as severe as many people would not prefer to wear, in which I'm not listed! I have always vacant room in my collection for animalic and leathery monstrous perfumes and always enjoy their enchained brutal sumptuous Gothic air. Musk Tokin is relatively recent release of the house. A 2014 eau de parfum based on floral and musky accords.
The twisted luxury dressed urine like opening of the fragrance shocks you immediately. It's a luxury/unfit half a world away. This is alert for the individuals looking skeptical to perfume notes in which musk is enlisted in bold amount! Nevertheless, it's not only animality in the beginning. It is tamed by floral and probably orange blossom notes. Something like heliotrope imbues musky theme (it's just a guess, don't count on me). Usually no source reliably mentions the notes accompanying in Musk Tonkin cause the house has not revealed it. Right, it is a great scent to expose up publicly. But those responsible for perfume factories of course are masters of decyphering! Even me, with my moderate nose can tell apart some of them: definitely citrus and citrus blossom in the opening plus floral notes: gardenia and heliotrope... Let me use it within the text.

I found this deer picture much fancier than any published musk deer in the internet, so pardon me for using this one!

Musk Tonkin is powdery and a bit boozy in the beginning. But it shows up bountiful dose of musky vibe (deer musk as it is named) allied with floral theme.
The basement when the fragrance settles in dry down shows up more classic patterns: oakmoss, honey, and probably patchouli are over there beside musk which is suave and dandy!
Musk Tonkin is a modern chypré, floral animalistic, musky luxurious fringed item. I'm impressed by longevity; it stay for more than a day just as in Serge Lutens. And sillage is convincing but not so great. It's better this way, some perfumes should not be overpowering.
Classic musk, modern floral.

Carpe Odor!

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Profumi del Forte - Feminines

Profumi del Forte
Four feminines

Casually and negligently I used to skip over Italians. I don't know why. Maybe French were more attractive; however British ones didn't attract me for long at all. Maybe cause there were no chance to try easily most of Italian niches as they usually run in Europe and not everywhere. Maybe the names are hard to pronounce; silly excuse! Anyhow, doesn't matter, I'm involved now and among those infamous but always considered artistic, Profumi del Forte glimmers like a less studied star in a galaxy of giants. Some of their perfumes are good objects to write about. I picked only four feminine of the brand and gonna write summarized on each.

Vittoria Apuana

This is one of a kind type of... I don't know shall I call it gourmand? It's fruity from top to toe, fruity and tropical. Vittoria Apuana is not like a perfume but it is so fun.
Combined of banana and coconut, this imitates spirit of very damp breezy hot sands of beach of Caribbean in the opening, specially for citric delightful play. But it's devoted to memories from past days of Vittoria Apuana beach resort so yes, that green dill-like smell in the middle of play is the answer to draw in miles back to Mediterranean waters of west Italia. I checked the notes, vanilla is damn hot here, so as coconut and banana and amber. Citruses cannot be that vegetable greenish. But what the hell is tiare flower?! I though it's jasmine. I search some local flowershops. Poor guys haven't even heard or seen a flower like this. A friend of mine finally hinted out and so the green floral vibe is for the flower.
Vittoria Apuana is a simple; very very simple; fun and peaceful fragrance. Feminine, cute, modest and easy going with strong longevity and moderate sillage.


The smell of citruses and a bouquet of freshly cropped flowers from garden, in a comfortably mild cold air of early summer morning, on a marble table in entrance with large open doors to garden next to the main hall, starts a sizzling romance.
Fiorisia is powdery, soapy and rosy iris, charged with bergamot (Italians' tradition accented by French affairs) what a fantasy! Teo Cabanel has some similar items but Fiorisia is way authentic and vernacular to local Italian identities.
The perfume starts with cute fresh chilly floral vibe baptized by citruses. It's very romantic and peace loving. Very bright and sheer, yummy sour and floral, simple, suitable for everyday wear, casual.
Enveloping projection, not so vast but good. Normal longevity a floral fresh scent has; about hours.

Vaiania Dea

Gastronomical tuberose; if it does help to give the idea. Tuberose is so delicate. You either have to spend a lifetime effort to extract pure essence to deliver the quality like Carnal Flower or castrate it like many random feminine perfumes that smell tuberose but do nothing at all. Perhaps making yummy vibe out of tuberose is the best approach to not spend life and money nor spoil everything.
Vaiania Dea is fresh and sweet tuberose opener; tuberose affected by aldehyde's sour freshness. The opening is a bit baffling but quickly it settles. Vaiania Dea demonstrates an easy to wear modern floral pattern with nostalgia of past. The core of fragrance is more rounded, yet fresh and euphoric by fruity note; peach. It is not mentioned who's responsible for the combination but peach and its blissful theme, bold contrast between warmth and freshness, and bravely use of too many notes in a modern fragrance is giving me a clue that immediately recalls Bertrand Duchaufour for this fragrance. It carries his signature.
Strong longevity, more than 6 hours and the dry down is out of this world. Average projection. The scent itself is so bright and well made.
A daily casual tuberose, rustling sound of Italian romantic records on gramophone, hats and high heels, diaries notebook.


This is so-so. Not strong, not at least on my skin. Frescomaro is a fresh fruity salad type of floral scent with bold osmanthus and boozy rose. The introduction of the fragrance is played by citrus: creamy grapefruit and juniper. It is slightly effervescent and not really perfume like. Just a scent.
Then elements of heart; flowers; appear and identify it. Cucumber and melon in slight portion, violet leaf, soft petroleum-like smell, and kind of cherry jam smell (which is not tobacco) shine palely in back.
Very mediocre longevity and rather poor sillage. Unnecessary fruity green release.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, July 6, 2015


Meerschaum by Soivohle

By kindness of a friend from Paris I finally found opportunity to try some scents of Soivohle which literally reopened a new door to higher class natural dark world; a door which had been opened once by Slumberhouse and Olympic Orchids and closed while striving and amusing by luxury markets.
What I love about indies and single-parented naturals is that you can look at them in a dynamic point of view without concerns of a luxury brand and all they provide is complex simplicity in quite modest package.

To talk about Meerschaum let me first talk about the stone. The meerschaum stone is magnesium silicate mineral chiefly used in jewelry and tobacco pipe and its biggest mines are in Turkey. The meerschaum stone is so soft and can be carved easily by a piece of metal or carving tools. It is believed that the material acts like filter for tobacco potentially and by passing time it shifts color and caramelizes into opaque muddy amber color, the more it absorbs nicotine. It is fragile and crunchy.
But what Meerscahum as perfume signifies is tobacco color and not white color. It is a dense dark aromatic type of 18th century herbaceous grotesque. The initiation of Meerschaum is light with almost yummy spicy unfiltered flavored tobacco. For the beginning this is much greater than a tobacco perfume needs to be. It's is full of Gothic nuances and certainly the tobacco and pipe reminds one thing to mind: 221b Baker Street.

This direct opening emphasizes the effect of tobacco and image of mystery, however, more than to be a tobacco perfume, Meerschaum is a classic English type of lavender-like oakmoss with its purest creamy green shape, masterly layered with chamomile.
This is the ultimate face of the perfume and its core. Dark, green and witchy omen. Tim Burton type of smell that I have known before by the dry down of Slumberhouse Norne. Now to give the rightest clues (cause I believe picking from such perfumes is so difficult) if you looking for a classic, un-animalic, all-green, creamy, mysteriously and amusingly dark with 19th century's vibe, then Meerschaum is an answer. And indeed it's a good answer.
This perfume has strong longevity over 8 hours and vast projection, and it is not disturbing nor weird at all. Kind of forgotten standard classic manly cologne, reidentified in unisex manner.

Carpe Odor!