Monday, November 30, 2015

The jewel you splash: Jacinthe de Sapphir by DSH Perfumes

Jacinthe de Sapphir by DSH Perfumes


I read the translation of "Das Parfum" and in the translator's intro she nailed a very nice fact: "I wonder how possibly happens that among people of a country which a part of it are anosmic because of severe cold winters, one (Patrick Süskind) could deliver the most detailed beauty of perfumes". This is what I believe to, that geography has great impact of human's capabilities and physical and moral attributions. When I try DSH Perfumes, each of them, I always think about this that how a harsh mountainous climate as Colorado can grow such delicate mind in perfumery?
The last time we had conversation about Nourouz, Dawn S. Hurwitz indicated to Jacinthe de Sapphire as an improvement in what Nourouz spins around: hyacinth. To be honest my obsession with this heavenly flower began with Baruti Indigo before I did go through Nourouz, although this flower is a mandatory part of our festive culture!

Jacinthe de Sapphir is a part of the quadrant Ms. Hurwitz created for DAM (Denver Art Museum). The inspiration muse behind this collection is an exhibition of Cartier's Jewels in 20th Century. The collection contains Rubis RoséFumée d'OrJacinthe de Sapphire, and Deco Diamonds.

Queen Marie of Romania, the muse character behind Jacinthe de Sapphire

Being so impressed by the perfume itself, I double impressed by Ida Meister's wonderful pen when she begins her review with: "Breathtakingly Blue". Indeed, the perfume illustrates such blue and such glamour.
Jacinthe de Sapphire blooms with soil-like smell of bergamot and violet and hyacinth. I love violet. It smells like wet fresh early morning soil of garden beneath shrubs of flowers when the leaves are sweaty by dew drops. This  note has strong personality and responsibility to fit with gasoline leather as in early editions of Dior Fahrenheit, and nocturnal poetic delicacy as in James Heeley Nuit de Iris.
This fresh crispy opening is subjective, and gradually it is occupied by well-blended sweet, floral, animalic nuances. Rose appears beside soft hints of civet - which delivers so faint barnyard theme. This slight animalic hint promises for plush core and luxurious classic aura. This theme follows the path through powdery orris that enriches the fragrance.

What I may not like in the fragrance is a vibe of syrupy sweetness that stings my throat. It's not severe or bold but it is considerable close to skin. This is probably from floral side, specially hyacinth. I'm not sure. Jacinthe de Sapphire opens so blue and ends crimson. It's a queen-size modest fragrance and a tribute to beauty of nature. The fragrance has moderate lifetime with about four hours of moderate projection. It's more like a personal skin-mate perfume to finalize the beauty of a jewel necklace around sculptural bust of a delicate woman; something as close to skin as a jewel.

Carpe Odor!

Thursday, November 26, 2015

Tobacco Giants: Chergui by Serge Lutens vs Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

Tobacco Giants
Chergui by Serge Lutens
vs
Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford



I have never considered myself a fond of tobacco perfumes but I always deeply savour of keeping nose on a good tobacco aroma, whether a cigar, a newly pack of cigarette before to pull the first out after you remove the tin paper of unpacking, or a premium tobacco perfume. Smelling a good tobacco makes my day like a mug of coffee or a cup of saffron tea. Tobacco potentially has stingy dry grassy smell but in the industry; whether perfumery or tobacco production; it is always cured to be an aromatic sweet fruity material. Tobacco industry is an ocean of chemistry and experience which is out of boundaries of my knowledge, so I participate the show by enjoying the smell and the smoke once a while for fun not addiction!



There are hundreds of tobacco perfumes in the markets from cheapest designers to high-end exclusives but in this crowd only those faithfuls to tobacco can touch the summit. Burberry London for men is still a top seller in designer world, however, this record could still be kept, as in 2007, if Mugler's A*Men Pure Havane has not hit the markets two years later in 2009. Mugler did what D&G could not strongly fulfill by The One in 2008. Parallel to this, the trend was following strongly by first class niches with several tens of challengers which indeed released powerful impact on the line. Serge Lutens' absolute art; Chergui; appeared in 2005, and Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille from his fascinating jars of Private Blend joined in 2007. These two perfumes in fact has nothing to do with each other but the only common aspect that draws both in a review is their fame and being top sellers tobacco perfumes. Nevertheless, not being a tobacco-prominent perfume could be another aspect. Otherwise I would like to replace Tobacco Vanille with Tobacco Oud from the house and Fumerie Turque from Lutens.



Tobacco Vanille

Since the day it hit, in the collection, beside Tuscan Leather and Italian Cypress, Tobacco Vanille is an influential perfume that has great impact on bazaar. It's a plush and very dominant dose of sweetened tobacco.
Initially, the perfumes assaults with very thick and heavily-duty sweets-intimated, intriguing tobacco accord. Sweet and punchy as smell of apron of a pastry chef at night after a hard day work full of orders, the fragrance attracts with daring gourmand sweetness. It's cacao, spices, and tobacco, highly charged with vanilla, and the vanilla comes up step by step by setting spices down and decreasing edgy smoky vibe into rounded sweetness. The sweet accord of vanilla is like a twisted amber that in the process of creations, the nose decides to make something else and the result is a solivanille, extremely boozy and forceful. Of course, a considerable dose of coumarin is detectable in the heart of this accord but it apparently is not delighting this wave of magma. Formerly I had been surprised by Slomberhouse Ore which is a caramel/cacao bomb and the same tone of sweetness exists in Tobacco Vanille but in luxury tuxedo and bowtie.

Photo by CarlMacau from Profumo.net

The core and base of Tobacco Vanille is sensually warm and inviting. I'm dreaming a perfume with such opening. Anyway, the perfume has some distinct characteristics, one of which is its extremely flamboyant and screaming sweetness exposure. It's shouting sweetness, and it's angled honey-like and smoldering spicy vibe that overtones and defeats tobacco down. I would like to compare Tobacco Vanille for its intense dose of sweetness and cacao with Thierry Mugler Angel which is another sweet bomb, however, the two perfumes are miles distinct in details.
Tobacco Vanille is so realistic and smoky spicy/tobacco that I like to second Luca Turin's statement that says: "Smells great, but feels more like a cozy parfum d’ambiance than a real fragrance". Definitely not my cup of tea but still a nice fragrance if you're in perfumes that scream out! Very potent longevity and projection, be careful how and when you wear it. It's a cold weather evening and formal private party perfume, not an office cologne.



Chergui

There's a sentence I have to engrave on a plate of jade and fill with gold saying: perfume must cruise you to a place, a memory, a time you always want to have it back. And this perfume deliberately takes me to matte sweet memories of past.
Chergui means Eastern (شرقی). It comes from North African French-accented Arabic language. But seems Lutens indicates to something else, a local desert seasonal warm wind, probably, when he says:
"...As if bursting from the earth, Chergui, a desert wind, creates an effect that involves suction more than blowing, carrying plants, insects and twigs along in an inescapable ascent...".
Chergui has took always place on top five of many professional collectors and bloggers which indeed deserves. Chergui is a very smart composition and a proof of how guys in the house of Serge Lutens are working on formulas. This perfume is certainly the most thoughtful and conceptualized tobacco composition ever made...

Photo ⓒ by Mohammad Aboutalebi
Thanks to Mohammad A. for this brilliant shut

It opens up with so yummy theme resemblance of what you can't easily bring out to words. Whatever it is, it is so sweet and lovesome. The composition, nevertheless, has soft and delight sweetness as cherry jam, which a dozen of best tobacco fragrances are famous for. Fruity, delightful, nostalgic and soapy. Soon after this unrepeatable opening, inklings of hay come up. This note shows how professional Sheldrake and Lutens are. Unlike many tobacco fragrances - made in extrovert and severe form, as Tobacco Vanille - here we have very delicate and very mathematical architecture of materials. Hay accord, in fact, duplicates tobacco. It has smoky, fruity, irregular herbaceous bitterness that amplifies tobacco and on the other side, honey gives it sweetness while iris appears and takes responsibility for powderiness. I wonder if my assumption of existing ambergris in the composition comes true, cause I acquire marine notes mingling with soapiness and iris in the dry down.
This is why professional perfumistas call Serge Lutens a real niche house not another high-end house! This house makes wonders with each creation and while others' take on oriental is a severe hot and mystical smell full of harshness and lots of oud and rose, how poetic Serge Lutens sees the beauty of a harsh desert wind! I should stand up and clap for his enthusiasm and knowledge of the east. Cherguie, is perhaps the house's top seller. It has soft moderate longevity up to about 7 hours on skin, and corresponding to this, it has mellow projection.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, November 23, 2015

A tribute to plentiful gardens of India: Phul-Nana by Grossmith

Phul-Nana by Grossmith


About one month ago while in Tehran, I had chance to leisurely get around in Jovoy boutique and thanks to their friendly hospitality, we had a great time and discussions on perfumes. Today, I regret why I didn't get more samples from Grossmith while I was free to pick everything I want!

Phul Nana is a wonderful classic composition that cruises me back to a time I miss a lot. This is the best part of perfumery (and at the same time a painful part if you had to skip a lot of good things and people in the past) when unknown senses, evoked by smell, bring back sepia memories of past. This exactly smells mom's geranium collection in marble huge garden urns. Stony powdery surface of marble, velvety and hairy surface of geranium stems and leaves, and fluffy texture of petals.



You know when every single cell of your body is tied to a smell you hardly can deny it and geranium is my DNA, my obsession, as much as citruses. Now you can imagine how exquisitely Phul Nana demonstrates geranium.




A legacy, a reestablishment


The house of Grossmith had been found in 1835 in London by John Grossmith; one of England’s oldest perfume houses. His son, John Lipscomb Grossmith (1843-1921), developed the firm into a leading perfume house, manufacturing a wide range of perfumes, essential oils, fine soaps, face powders and toilet preparations including hand creams.


Until 1924 the firm has been managed by three generations of Grossmith family. Until 1980 when the house ceased business completely, it has honorably worked in perfume world and created a collection of unforgettable noble perfumes from premium natural materials for elite customers of the era.


After being about 30 years out of family ownership, the legacy of J. Grossmith is now owned by his great great grandson; Simon Brooke.
The company held royal warrant granted by the Queen Alexandra (1844-1925), and royal courts of Greece and Spain.


It is as amusing as the perfumes of the house to know about the formula book. When I inquired the house for official information supply about the history of the company they sent me files, a part of which describes:
"John Lipscomb Grossmith was trained as a perfumer in Grasse and returned to London to combine his creative and progressive perfumery skills with a pioneering recognition of the significance of expanding product ranges and creating brands. The formulae books held by the company are likely to have been written by John Lipscomb Grossmith and they contain original formulae of over 300 products including 96 perfumes, 23 EDT and colognes, 10 essential oil blends and 82 soaps which were marketed through over a hundred separate brand names."

In a collaboration with Robertet - a Grasse based fragrance house specializing in natural materials - and Holmes & Marchant - bottle designers who have designed the new flacons upon classic Grossmith Baccarat flacons - the new Grossmith reestablished in November 2009 and reproduced their truly classics using the original formulas without reference to costs and keeping naturals wherever possibleHasu-no-Hana (1888), Phul-Nana (1891) and Shem-el-Nessim (1906). The nose behind the classic collection and Saffron Rose from Black Label collection is Trevor Nicholl.





Phul Nana, a tribute to plentiful gardens of India

Let's get back to the scent: Phul Nana. This perfume is a fine classic gem and as I said no real classic nut, nor a geranium-insane dares to deny it. Phul Nana is an ambery oriental fougère fragrance with deep luxurious eastern floral overtones. Warm, sensual, classic and deeply woodsy. It took me almost a whole two weeks to discover every corner of this beautiful edifice for which I used up my samples!
The perfume unfurls with peppery citrus married to neroli that immediately recalls for a lush floral heart, composed by mature ylang-ylang, intrigant tuberose, heavenly jasmine, and royal romanticist geranium. This clash of fresh notes with crispy floral assault makes perplexing aura.


I have no idea why geranium imprints Napoleon in my mind! Geranium is green, fluffy, sweet gourmand, soapy, metallic and deeply camphorated which - here in Phul Nana - this aspect is intensified by tuberose which also adds indolic features to the composition, so in overall the heart of the fragrance smells a bit like tooth-paste just as Geranium Pour Monsieur by Frederic Malle. Camphorous vibe helps the floral air to present rather strong but coumarin and vanilla take control of unnecessary development of indolic theme, which is critical to show off the splendor of rich Indian flower gardens. And undoubtedly, no Indian perfume is successful without patchouli and sandalwood that appear in the heart of composition.


Although the opening of Phul Nana is totally woodless floral and geranium-spinning, the core is purely woodsy vanillic and faint milky which is charged by sandalwood, allied to floral patch, and pungent patchouli. It is so hypnotic.
Phul Nana is a pure classic. An old fashion, legal and timeless like Rolls Royce, a first class delivery, and a loyal old Indian refinement without conceptualizing it to western atmosphere, a noble legacy. It is interesting, being a rigid classic, it doesn't show off an animalic note.
The fragrance has strong longevity, very balanced effects between layers with faint edges at the end of each layer. About 9 hours with long base phase. It has also massive sillage that presents every slight characteristic of the fragrance.

Carpe Odor!


Thursday, November 19, 2015

Dr. Strangelove's romantic diaries: Lonestar Memories by Tauer Parfums

03 Lonestar Memories by Tauer Parfums



The time I received my sample pack from Tauer and tried them immediately one by one, I regretted so much why didn't I placed the order one week earlier. I had bought something else similar to Lonestar Memories which I don't name here... That's not bad but I preferred 03.

03 Lonestar Memories by Andy Tauer is a 2006 production and Andy's third release, based on story of cowboys in old jeans and leather jacket... Great idea and great imitation. Before I read the description about the perfume I had similar image without jean and rider. It was a campfire with every wood piece gathered randomly to pass desert night. A journey or immigration, a self discovery or self-refuge. Something is weird with this travel, something is wrong, it's not a travel for pleasure or resort...

After several tries on my skin I found it an extension to 02 l'Air du Désert Marocain. An elevation of spicy tarry air, decline in amber, and deformation of oriental ambiance to cold weather woody chypre-like, yet the effect of smokiness and darkness is as bold as in 02 LADM. Unlike 02 l'Air du Désert Marocain, which is out of classic/modern gossips, Lonestar Memories has clear tendency to classic compositions and it's approved by renown perfume critic, Luca Turin, when he calls 03 a "smoky carnation".

I'm so loose for birch. This wood has great impact on me and I'm so greedy for its leathery tarry darkness. It's an artistic element. And 03 LM is about that darkness. But this is not all, this perfume is oriented around leather but this is not a frequent leather stuff, not that simple. 03 LM is a tatterdemalion smell verging to famous American apothecary natural perfumes, which is a keen and professional detailed translation.



03 Lonestar Memories opens pungent and tousled leathery, like someone survived from a bloody thunder storm and rain. It is integrated, solid, pharmaceutical, massive volume of leather and resins. But not dry, it's wet and smelly that bears slight yummy taste inside. Kafkaesque indicates to sticky orange and I join her for the statement, cause I'm capturing the smell of orange employed in 09 Orange Star. But this is not so much of citruses to shake the birch-tarry resinous column. It is pharmaceutically intriguing and smoky phenolic with hints of floral sub-layer. The elements in the perfume are very carefully chosen. He could close the composition with lavender but he chose clary sage which stays a step closer to sweaty body smell and has rancid feature. Geranium, although not that sharp as in classic fragrances, has an important role to control over angular leather's hegemony. Labdanum is responsible for animality and amber-like enchanting format. Mixing with dense myrrh smokiness, labdanum is greatly capable to duplicate a sexy and mystical atmosphere.

03 LM is a strange fragrance, undeniably repulsive in the first try but so charming and desirable as you go with. It's weird leathery, not so natural, nor cloying synthetic, twisted and cinematic. It has marvelous longevity; about 12 hours on my skin; so as great projection. Let me assure you the brutality you smell on your skin is not all the others capture around you. I sprayed it on my wrist in my studio, left for a while and after I walked in I captured a pleasant leather, labdanum, and myrrh smell. For resemblance, it is akin to Santa Maria Novella Ambra, but not so near to Pead d'Espagne as suggested by members in Fragrantica. More than everything it is nigh to HdP 1740 Marquis de Sade (see I finally reveal what I've purchased)!

Carpe Odor!

Jus Interdit, Sans un Mot, and Sombres Dessins by Jovoy

Jus Interdit, Sans un Mot, and Sombres Dessins by Jovoy


Jovoy has engaged with perfumery with Les 7 Parfums Capitaux collection (discontinued) in 2007 and since then they worked non-stop in the trend with brilliant compositions delivered by prestigious noses. Recently the house has added three new 50ml items with provocative titles to its collection in spring 2015: Jus Interdit (Forbidden Juice), Sans un mot (Not a word), and Sombres Dessins (Dark Designs). Very brief I go through the three perfumes...



Jus Interdit

Jus Interdit is a standard perfume with every aspect of a wearable fragrance. For such aroma you expect a little convention and irregularity in the core...
Jus Interdit is a warm fragrance with very high potentials that are undiscovered. The opening is so good and convincing. It's warm, balmy, juicy and a little appetizing boozy. The fragrance settles in dusky dry and arid theme with bold benzoin and tamed animality. Unlike the opening, the core of the fragrance is so generic. It is inexplicably off topic cause it wants two opposite sides at once: oriental mysterious theme and western luxurious theme.
The fragrance is dusty and woody-ambery with straightforward cedar, patchouli, and animalic base. Jus Interdit has strong longevity and moderate projection.



Sans un Mot

Sans un Mot raises a flag: shampoo, handmade soap or such cleansing things and it's merely because of intense floral musky theme used. It is an exclusively modern feminine perfume with bold musky saline soapy base infused in soil-like violet. The violet patch is not an intense bitter dewy one with cucumber smell, it's filtered and softened to extract the floral air only. Sans un Mot dangles in the middle of something. It's floral, way fruity and fresh, musky, and peppery powdery, but it shows all these in a very excited and uneasy way, like someone waiting impatiently for something to happen.
The base of the fragrance releases a little of wet air and becomes more stable and trustable. Yet the punchy projection and sharp acrid metallic smell of musk keeps it rather uncalm. It has moderate longevity and good sillage.


Sombres Dessins

Swampy patchouli and sandalwood, yummy spicy booze, slight lactonic floral, and soft mystic smoky. This is what Sombre Dessins is about, but while the name suggests, it is not about darkness.
The first step is on plastic world's patchouli, zested by citrus, saffron, and rum. This is a subjective step however, and the fragrance goes with more woody side that smells springy and blossomy. This must be from osmanthus and sandalwood. The whole fragrance turns to milky, acrid, sour, fresh/warm, and radiant spicy. The sour theme intensifies by the growth of perfume and merges into woodsy milky theme that inclines to carrot juice. So what we got? Smell of body sweat in the dry down presented in floral ornamentation. Oh I hate this. Sorry but can't hide this.

Jovoy's latest releases are common in some characteristics: they look like a response to some alterations in high-end perfume markets that Jovoy was not ready for, and afraid to lag. So they approach the stream but with haste and for that the result is unrecognized. Moreover, seems (for the haste probably) the total effort of creation focuses on charming beginnings but the cores are nothing special. This looks like a fancy facade on a ruined building. The three perfumes are all so familiar smells but you might strain to name for an olfactory parallel, as I do, cause they are similar to forgettable perfumes with mediocre quality. I really don't find these ones deserving to be among Jovoy perfumes. They are great letdown.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, November 16, 2015

A tattered baggage full of gold; Trayee by Neela Vermeire Créations

Trayee by Neela Vermeire Créations


If Around the World in 80 Days would have a smell, that could be Trayee. My first impression was lost for words. I has been confronting an ineffably complex masterpiece that pumps adrenaline in my veins and makes my heart beep fast. I could hear blaze of a happy carnival from distance. A happy ritual zesty smell.
Trayee is a different case fully about passion and culture. I severely love the fragrances with cultural concept behind creation. Of course I don't deny a perfume with strong and elaborate skeleton. Trayee is both of them; a homage to intangible heritages of India, and a premium composition with genuine natural materials.

I'm not sure if Holi has any relation to the concept of Trayee but if you look for an illustrated description this full HD color ceremony is the very happiness Trayee donates.

If I say it's all about incense, sandalwood, oudwood and black currant I didn't lie but I totally spoil Bertrand Duchaufour's endeavors to achieve his one of the most extravagant gems, cause you can't even guess by the pyramid how the reality is. Every single trio or quadrant of notes I make I disturb your imagination, therefore, Trayee is a perfume which must have talk about precisely and no one would obtain the passion unless testing the perfume. Today, at the time I'm writing this review, weather is fresh cold, clean and rainy and you don't know how inexplicably gorgeous the fragrance is performing with sonata or rain. Few days ago I concerned "how to wear Trayee, anyway? It's a great perfume but hard to fit a weather" and today I got my answer; the perfume is singing on me! I might commit suicide today from extreme happiness, this is the end of world!


Back to the story. I wondered about the title and I confess I don't know anything about India but mango is a delicious fruit! I stubbornly reject learning from here and there; I prefer to learn by my own and this is an academic obsession! But Trayee tickles me to learn and it deserves to search for the concepts behind the perfume. The house webpage describes the concept this way:

"The Vedic tradition suggests that wisdom is eternal. It exists within the eternal fabric of consciousness itself and is uncreated. It is the essence of India, the beginning of the journey. It is a eulogy, a hymn to the idea of India, an act of deepest reverence for the traditions of the mother country. 
The divine origin of the first three Vedas - Rig, Yajur and Sama - suggested the name of the perfume: Trayee (pronounced "try-ee" meaning "the traid"). Trayee is a complex fragrance that represents the boundless spiritual landscape of the great Vedic period, which started many centuries ago. 
Its intricate rituals and temple ceremonies, ayurveda, the universe of yoga and the holistic quest for knowledge. The perfume itself has a high percentage of natural ingredients used in many of the Vedic ceremonies."
Beside Bombay Bling! and Mohur, Trayee is the other of the trio by Indo-French independent niche perfumery house of Neela Vermeire Créations. The house is famous for its wealth-consuming compositions and so as to creation, the output is also opulent and pricey. Ms.Vermeire has not dedicated a budget limit for this project so Mr. Duchaufour, free-handly, utilized every marvelous natural ingredient and captive he desired or found necessary to woo you as much as to send the cultural message. That makes this house one of the most prestigious niche houses in the highest level of the industry.


I did a little research about the concept of the perfume to see what is Vedic ceremony and culture and where the roots are tied to. Believe me as a fan of history and cultures I mixed up. The concept is a cultural definition highly ties to historical background and as you go deeper you go through abyss. But to give a short idea and not baffle your mind, Vedic refers to the creed of Northern Indian Indo-Aryans and is knows as one of the oldest religions, and ancestor of modern Hinduism. For more information you can read on Wikipedia English which describes thoroughly.

Trayee opens vegetal green mixed with creamy zesty sweetness. Blackcurrant (which I die for), ginger, basil, cinnamon, cardamon, elemi... what else could you need to bland a tempting smell and taste?! Trayee is not only a smell, it's also a taste and notes employed for this perfume are:
Blue ginger from Madagascar, elemi oil, cinnamon bark, ganja effects, blackcurrant absolute, basil, sambac jasmine absolute, Egyptian jasmine absolute, cardamom absolute, clove, saffron, sandalwood, Javanese vetiver, Haitian vetiver, incense, Mysore sandalwood oil, patchouli, myrhh, vanilla, cedar, amber accord, oudh Palao from Laos, and oak moss.

This exuberant smell of beginning, also reminds me of a delicious Persian festive pudding which is usually served in religious ceremonies, named Shole Zard.

The opening is so intricate, elaborate, and alluring. It's in a fact assault of yummy notes like a huge jelly monster attacking a city that cannot harm cause it's a jelly! Cardamon and cinnamon; old friends; plus blackcurrant make the intro for next level which is driven by woodsy accords. Sandalwood; it's Mysore! The world's most favorable sandal and while getting the floral milky smell of Mysore, I'm paralleling it to Serge Lutens' Santal de Mysore and see how dynamic this wood is. The two fragrances has almost least possible communications. Trayee borrows milkiest form of sandalwood, mingles with spicy theme and saffron (which softly plays gastronomic role in the composition) and it is when it recalls for incense and petrified woodsy tones.


A soft mild touch of oudwood joins the composition and collaborates with un-resinous incenses to augment the ritual smoky vibe and this oud draws a  smile on your lips.
From now on, Trayee settles in core and continues linearly with warm, lazy, happy, sweet, mellow and delightful smell of woodsy gourmand air which is much more serious than an oud/incense Arabian composition. This fragrance is seriously one of a kind.

The base of Trayee is another journey of passion when gradually sweet yellow light of spices and sandalwood succumbs down to bitter/sweet aspect of myrrh, green facet of oakmoss, and dusty mellow smell of vetiver and the sweetness turns to light dustiness. The rituals almost finished, people scatter, the streets are covered by lots of flowers and petals, smell of sweet incense and sandalwood still around and empower.

One intriguing facet of Trayee is that there's no significant smell of flower in the composition but it clearly reminds me of Indian flowers. Yes, for Trayee yellow is the very color.
Trayee is a very flamboyant, very extrovert and inviting perfume. A nice fragrance for which you should to be smart enough to set it with right outfit and right weather otherwise you spoil it! I mean it, this perfume is not so flexible to fit to every criteria you desire and this intensifies on men more than women; women can wear it much easier.

Counting its faceta once again, it's floral, woodsy, milky, spicy, and a little smoky. Trayee supports you with mind-blowingly enormous longevity and higher than average sillage and projection. The fragrance apparently stays a whole day on my skin and it's still so strong! I wonder by its power as much as its composition. It's Duchaufour after all, he makes treasure from every single element he touches! One word: Bravo!

Carpe Odor!

Friday, November 13, 2015

Sumptuous rose gem of Arabia; Amouage Homage Attar

Homage Attar by Amouage


Chance to test Attar series of Amouage doesn't happen to everyone, and not all the perfumistas has wonderful friends as I do, to get samples of an almost nothing specially adequate fragrance in a minute bottle of Homage. Thus a galaxy of thanks to Amir D. who generously shares his passion and interest in perfumery with whomever he finds deserving to share!
Homage is a different case and distinct, valuable experiment that drew me in rose realm once again. Everyone who knows me, knows that I'm a rose-phobic and enemy of this plant by blood cause it gives me headache. However, mastery is when you're amazed by roses, specially bulky pink Taif rose with dusty smoky smell.


As those radical fans of premium Arabian perfumery know, Attar collection is out of access and ceased, and the house of Amouage hasn't announced any official news about the future or reproduction of these hefty-priced gems. Homage is a parfum oil delivered in 12ml and 30ml cubic bottle with glass pin, produced in 2008 in limited quantity for celebrations the house's 25th anniversary.

The term "Attar" that nowadays after widespread intention to oriental and Middle Eastern perfumery has become a frequently searched terminology in perfume encyclopedias, if fact indicates to the professional perfumery with natural ingredients. Fragrantica suggests that the term has roots in Urdu language; totally incorrect, cause Urdu is in fact a variety of Middle Asian Turkic languages used in army (Urdu in Turkish means troop) during Mughal era in Pakistan and partially in India. Furthermore, lingually it cannot be Urdo cause it follows Arabic grammar. It is unclear that where the the term Atr (عَطر, which means fragrance in both Persian and Arabic languages) comes from. Since this word has no root in Sanskrit and Indo-European languages, it is either Semitic (Arabic) or domestic ancient Iranian (languages which gone extinct before appx. 1000 B.C. by the beginning and expansion of local kingdoms and later Persian Empires) terminology which most of reliable sources suggests so. Anyhow, the word attar (subject form of "atr" which means to do perfumery or apothecary) means master of perfumery. In Persian language a herbalist is also called attar since herbalists knew making medicines, elixirs, poisons, antitoxins, soaps, perfumes and healing waters.

A book page including descriptions and illustrations of specific plants and way of extracting oils from. During Islamic Golden Age, Arabic was the language of science for its capability.

Now get back to our topic!
Homage opens with punchy exquisite soapy citrus accord deliberately mingled with premium quality olibanum, named silver frankincense. Since the fragrance is not a toilette or perfume version it is not so subjective from alpha to omega. Furthermore, keep this hint that attar oils (from any Arabian house it would be) are not complex in composition, but are premium in quality with few materials. That is demonstration of  artisinal talent of perfumers.


The incense party of Homage immediately dominate the atmosphere, until nuances of gratifying Taif rose join the party and takes hegemony. This is a dense, thick, gigantic and yet elaborate play of notes. An immense woodsy air with incense and agarwood (not so bold but considerable) at one side, dryness of rose at the other side, and citruses, together conjure up delightful luxurious happiness. Plush rose, soft jasmine, modest oud, flamboyant incense, juicy deserty lemon, and an oasis of ambery notes in dry down at the horizon when sandalwood softly chamfers the edges of incense. 
Homage is a king size rose. A breathtaking rose fragrance with rose not in focal point of formula. A vernacular demonstration of rich Omani incense culture. Like all extract oils, Homage has strong over-day longevity on skin (you really don't want to waste it on your clothes) and depends on your body temperature and where on your body you rob the perfume, it varies in sillage and projection. Usually oils perform better on wrist and neck.
The series are discontinued but you can still find some on eBay and it's all upon your luck, however, you may not feel lucky about the prices. The average price began from $500 for 12ml.

Carpe Odor!


Tuesday, November 10, 2015

Mushroom, woodpecker, trout and smell of firewood; Fireside Intense by Sonoma Scent Studio

Fireside Intense by Sonoma Scent Studio


One million years ago human has discovered fire; a discovery that beside wheel, is of the three happenings that influenced the path of history of civilization (the third is usually considered Crusades). Fire, this curious physichemical exothermic combustion of organic materials, soon became the primitive human's everything. His nutrition changed, ceremonies happened to begin, and in general speaking, the mankind developed. A step on which no other animal was able to approach. The symbol of wrath of skies turned to human's domesticated power, the source of heat, as much as light and security. A charming waving totem, around which the security against wilder nature and the warmth against harsh climate was always guaranteed and donated.
Passing millions of years, still today, this is the habit we follow at fireside. Someone drinks whiskey, someone plays guitar, some people chat, children stare at fire, and some lean and stretch legs towards fire to warm up!



Laurie Erickson; the nose and the owner of the house; employs notes to deliver the feeling of a fireside: guaiac wood, nagarmotha, Texas cedar, Himalayan cedar, Indian sandalwood, agarwood, birch tar and cade, leather, oakmoss absolute, castoreum, amber.

Laurie Erickson, a self-made perfumer who holds master of Geomechanics from Stanford university, established Sonoma Scent Studio later than she began to blend essences and work on formulas, in 2004 and has slowly grown the business.



"I am attracted to natural themes, so I have created quite a few scents that are inspired by nature, whether it be a forest, a smoky winter day, a rose, or a tobacco leaf. I hope to create scents that connect to people’s memories and that are both beautiful and affordable."

Fireside Intense opens so vibrant with clear smell of virgin olive oil mixed with balsamic vinegar. It's so amusing and left me rolled eye. However, this smell is subjective and not even an intro. It skips over quickly and reaches to fresh gray smoky smell of birch. This wood is my everything. I love it deeply for its wooden facets and its potentials to duplicate powdery leathery aura, and fabricate a dark exciting memorial atmosphere. Laurie captures the concept from her youth and happy memories of setting out with family to camp each summer. She deliberately delivers the aura and joy of being in nature with others, and leaves you free with your memories to pick your own take of firewood smoke smell on your shirt which is the only lovable disgusting smell on shirt.


Random picture from Google

As you might now lounge in your sofa and dream about those marvelous summers with friends and family probably back in 90's when you're young and free from the chaotic daily life, the fragrance grows up in smokier woodsy theme. Actually I would like to stay in the beginning like everyone desiring not to get older!
A hint of medicinal pseudo-animalic urine-like smell of wood appears and we all know which note is notorious for: agarwood! It must be so tied to emotions that Laurie arrays eastern wood accords as sandal, oud, and guaiac to materialize her image of past; woods that are not local to American forests. That makes me rather excited! It's like being in Sahara and paint snow covered pines; talent, we call it, talent and power of imagination.



Leather accord appears and offsets birch, complements oud and guaiac. The fragrance now has approached its base. There's not sign of olive oil and balsamic smell that we faced at the very beginning. Oud is not aged and dried, guaiac shimmers, and birch is replaced by leather and soft sweetness of sandalwood.
The perfume could present castoreum, amber accord, and green cypress and nagarmotha, clearer if it would have lighter dose of woods; for massive use of woods the exotic side of perfume goes underneath and you must possess a keen nasal system to get castoreum from leather and birch. The composition is highly blended and it must be for containing high percentage of natural oils that of course promises for lasting power and essential effect.

Fireside Intense presents very potent, very long lasting about 9 hours on my skin, and average projection. The scent performs so solid and firm. It is smoky oud fragrance, soft woody, wearable, and type of smell you never find in designer and a dozen of niche fragrances. It's so daring. The scent is offered in 17ml and 34ml flacons with $42 and $75, respectively.

Carpe Odor!


Sunday, November 8, 2015

Chocolate pornography; Chocolate Greedy by Montale

Chocolate Greedy by Montale


How insanely you're greedy for chocolate? How impatiently you wait for Valentine's Day to bit that chocolates with passion?! How many times in your childhood you've been bribed by chocolate to give your possessions or do what you normally do not? Does these words make sense? Then you're a fan of Chocolate Greedy? This perfume is in fact Charlie and the Chocolate Factory in scent realm. An aromatic test to your chocolate-addiction level!

Tutti fruity colors, metal flasks, fancy shiny things and strange intense smells. Montale is famous for these as much as its Aoud series which is one accord participating in hundred perfumes! I seriously tried to understand this house but I really couldn't. I couldn't find an info about the guy behind theses all; Pierre Montale who has delivered more than 110 perfumes in about 10 years which only a mother mouse can break this record with hundreds of babies annually! Of course I don't counted Mancera.
No matter how they work, no matter who is Pierre Montale, the true fact is they are one of the top sellers in every boutique they provide and they have Mancra line which has another story. Chocolate Greedy is one of the most famous Montale perfumes and one of the most renown chocolate fragrances.

Heidilicious by Heili Klum

I imagine how assaulting the chocolate could be, if the intense sweet opening was not rendered with bitter orange's sourness. Pull the trigger and it starts with severe and enticing high dose of unprocessed cacao mixed with slightly burnt butter and ample vanilla, that in overall smells like biscuits in oven. It's hot, dry and gastronomic. One thing comes to mind and that's Chocolate Greedy is a formula stolen from a 50 years old chocolate shop in Paris a midnight and adapted to perfume; it is not a formula for liquid! I mean it, the volume of deliciousness in this fragrance is off the limit.
The heart of the fragrance, however, shows off less chocolate and transfers in more burnt, succulent, and strange dried-fruity theme. This all is harmonized by half ambery accord that responses for vanilla and coumarin and probably cinnamon. It smells like something burnt-caramelized in copper saucepot, something vegetal and sweet like pumpkin!


Who really wants to smell like chocolate factory?!

Ok, the smell is so certain, solid and wild gourmand with intense and seriously intense overdose of cacao and sweets but it's not a typical gourmand to wear in Christmas night. The biggest question mark above your head occurs just after you decide to wear Chocolate Greedy and it's "How the hell I'm supposed to wear this?". There's a big oxymoron about Chocolate Greedy and that's the perfume is one of the most inviting gourmands and one of the most renown, yet it is one of the most challenging ones to wear! Personally, I don't dare to wear such things cause it badly performs on me, and I really don't like to smell like a chocolate factory.

Since it's  Montale, you can assuredly blind buy if only longevity and projection is matter of concern for you. This house has monstrous performing perfumes for inexpensive price (the prices of Montale perfumes varies from market to market. In western markets it sells about $170 for 100ml while you can find about $100 or even less in some Mid-Eastern regions and India).


Carpe Odor!

Wednesday, November 4, 2015

The smell you have never read; Bull's Blood by Imaginary Authors

Bull's Blood by Imaginary Authors

Francisco Goya, Disparate de Tontos, 1877

Where curiosity and innovation exceeds compositions with an bold idea behind, I follow the trend with highest interest. Josh Meyer, the perfumer and founder of brand-new Californian indie perfume house; Imaginary Authors; creates perfumes with a remarkable concept. His perfumes are named after books which have never been published, written by authors who have never been seen at a table in corner of a cafe. Very artistic and smart idea. I could have many words for the concept only but I'm here for the smell, and you feel it more amusing when you try the fragrances. Bull's Blood was my first try and it's a perfume on which we can talk and talk so I picked my first from the house to review.


So the imaginary author behind Bull's Blood is Devante Valéreo. Meyer describes the concept of the fragrance this way:
"Devante Valéreo was raised in a dusty Spanish village on the Balearic Sea. He fondly recalled going to the bullfights with his father, an ex-picador, and credited those early experiences with inspiring his most popular novella, Bull’s Blood. The book’s lurid tale of seduction garnered obscenity charges against the author. Though the charges were rejected by the court, a ban on the sale of his works persisted for a number of years..."
When I first searched for Imaginary Authors it was soon after their launch and Fragrantica announced it. Immediately many blogs and Facebook communities started talking about. It was apparently a revolutionary perfume line which everything was amazing: titles, tags, concepts, even the notes were intriguing. And all is...


For Bull's Blood listed notes are patchouli, rose, costus root (which I discovered in Nu-Be Sulphur), tobacco, black musk, and bull’s blood. Yeah, bull's blodd! There's no limit for innovation and creativity in synthetic perfume world that much that Chandler Burr once said "making perfume without synthetics is like painting without red and blue" and everything is possible in this realm. Create an accord which no one has done before and name "mom's testicles"... who cares! The matter is the final effect you give.  But seriously, what the hell is "bull's blood"? I don't disguise or whatsoever, it actually tickles me! I like it in a way! Meyer's stuff are seriously sources of curiosity, kind of scientific approach to perfumery intimated with artistic conceptualization.


Bull's Blood initiates with sweet, smoky, floral vibe and this opening is dark crimson, bloody. Everything mentioned in the description provided in the house's webpage about the perfume is commemorative of what is happening in the perfume: blood, Spain, dusty, oriental, bull...
There's hints of saffron in the opening mingled with tobacco and it's sweet, fresh, and intoxicating. I clearly see how saffron swirls into rose and tobacco (leafy and as real as in Havana). The tobacco is dusty, aromatic, and exotic to make enchanting feature out of morbid bloody theme.


Vibes of patchouli charges rose and tobacco and recalls animalic nuance which is the night's performer. The patchouli is sweet and resinous. The following is surprisingly realistic smell of blood but not metallic and milky as in Blood Concept Red +MA, it is rather dusty and phenolic. It is barnyard animalic, dirty, skanky and kind of kinky. Bold smell of sweaty farm animal, grey'ish, leathery and musky. That immediately reminds me of Lament for Ignacio Sánchez Mejías (he was killed by a bull in the battle field), a poem by Federico García Lorca:
The cow of the ancient world passed her sad tongue over a snout of blood spilled on the sand, 
and the bulls of Guisando, partly death and partly stone, bellowed like two centuries sated with threading the earth.
No, I will not see it!

The animalic theme dominates and the core of the fragrance is not arrived totally and it occupies the entire composition. Bull is now quite furious. The death, the matador's or the bull's is coming. The death is not a quick hit, it gradually and dramatically lasts about hours to finally the smell of skin (a dark powdery grey leather repeated in Comme de Garçons Tar) spread into air.



Bull's Blood is a dramatic kind of fragrance with charming bizarre atmosphere, which only a professional perfumista or a nut for animalics can bear with such rigid mythical smell of musk and leather. It has good longevity (about 8 hours) but what socks is its quick transmission and skipping the first layer. Otherwise it would definitely place in my basket. Yet $85 for 60ml is nothing to worry about!

Carpe Odor!