Sunday, January 31, 2016

The great Gatsby and the greater Gatsby: Bois du Portugal by Creed vs New York by Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur

Bois du Portugal by Creed
vs
New York by Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur


It is necessary for every gentleman to have a classy masculine perfume in his collection. Many of such items are provided by designer brands and they have a vast variety of formal smells from every aromatic category. In niche world this concept is materialized by the most high-end brands and usually the elders of the industry like Guerlain, Creed, and many prestigious artisanal French and Italian houses.

Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas

Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas


After their exclusive perfume from L'Artisan Parfumeur (2005) with purple matte bottle named after Christopher street boutique - Aedes de Venustas - and after their own first collaboration with Bertrand Duchaufour in Eau de Parfum (2012) which is known as the signature of the brand, Iris Nazarena is their own second and generally their third perfume, collaborated with Ralf Schwieger. At the time of writing this review the boutique has collaborated for five in-house perfumes plus the one with L'Artisan Parfumeur.

Avant-garde oud: Blask by Humiecki & Graef

Blask by Humiecki & Graef




It is about trust. Humiecki & Graef's eighth fragrance is delivered in 2011 and like the other fragrances and as the main concept of the house, it is conceptualized upon human's emotional complexity, empathy, and psychic experience.
The actual fragrance takes of fundamental sense of trust which is of human's deepest bonds and a major factor of being a social creature. Blask is a Polish word meaning luster, glow, glitter, and brilliance. The shine of the sun and the glory of moon. The fragrance indicates to warmth of sense of trust and naked honesty.

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Samurai's blade: Japon Noir by Tom Ford

Japon Noir by Tom Ford


Cold season occupied everywhere and my syndrome alongside stupidly falling in love with ambers recurs. This is a life-long syndrome I live every fall and winter, randomly finalizes in buying just another amber. Happily I filled my basket with lots of ambers this summer and happily Japon Noir is out of production, as far as I know.

The perfumes you drink: 1679 by Frapin

1679 by Frapin

Pierre de Nishapur

Among all the spirits and boozes, cognac has distinct value to me. First because of the aristocratic leisure it delivers, and because of intoxicating woodsy gourmand aroma beneath sharp alcohol vapor. It is warm, floating, aged, charming and sexy smell! I usually love twisted gourmand smells.

Flowerhead by Byredo

Flowerhead by Byredo


Falling crazily in love with the harlot of the perfume wold; tuberose; after I discovered the magnificent Carnal Flower and art nouveau'istic MAAI, seek here and there to encounter whatever possible in fine quality of this sheer flower to expertise this magical flower, yet I faced a sad reality that in this vast world of aroma there is only a small room for premium perfumes deserving the name of tuberose. Why is so clear; the plant is so hard to extract and hard to replicate in synthetic methods.

Absolution: Agarwood Intricate by Boadicea the Victorious

Agarwood Intricate by Boadicea the Victorious


Back in days about 5 years ago, I was talking to a friend about Versace Dreamer that he told something about Dreamer that I still use for the perfume: "Women are afraid of it, it scare them!"
Certainly no one fear from a perfume but it was totally understandable that the statement refers to massive volume of overmanliness in the perfume.

Sunday, January 24, 2016

That mysterious familiar aura: Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal

Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal


By no particular purpose I did not go through this house adequately for long time, and I met and tested most of Annick Goutal perfumes only once. Perhaps one reason is inaccessibility since they are hard to find for me. The other reason could be the time I engaged with Annick Goutal, was the time I was deeply in hardcore and dark fragrances with punchy features which is apparently out of the house's standards.

Friday, January 22, 2016

Oh my goat: Pan by Anya's Garden

Pan by Anya's Garden

Gyula Benczúr, Pan in the Reeds (self portrait), 1910

There is something in common between American artisanal natural perfumeries which is a nostalgic flashback to 19th century apothecarial style. Many of them have unified spirit and smell which - to be rational - partially arises from limited materials in natural perfumery, and partially emerges from spirituality. Nevertheless, such unification and limited access don't halt innovation and Pan is a perfume you may not say "Meh!" as you say to many others in the trend, cause this perfume is interesting enough to discuss in a blog post, and what makes it significant is a material that everyone pauses a minute when hears: goat hair?!

Thursday, January 21, 2016

The east is built on curves: Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens

Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens


There are many perfumes from the house of Serge Lutens which need to be introduced in a blog but I purposefully chose one of the hype perfumes from this French house to point on a critical factor that makes Serge Lutens the treasure of Alibaba to me, and it's his precise and flawless understanding of the east which he has approved several times by his earth-shattering arts like Chergui and Arabie.

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

A bowline around captain's ankle: 40 Knots by Xerjoff

40 Knots by Xerjoff




Very straightforward and short I'm gonna write about this perfume cause enough said by other bloggers and youtubers, and all in descriptive way that you can reliably blind buy the right one you love!

Xerjoff released ten exclusive fragrances in 2012 (Don joined the club in 2013), each for one particular club and hobby activity; one is for literature, one is aviation, another one for jazz and so on… 40 Knots is for yachting in Mediterranean Sea.

Monday, January 18, 2016

Sycomore by Chanel; pioneer or follower?

Sycomore by Chanel

Penleigh Boyd, Morning, 1920

One material that I'm still uncertain to come along with in a straight moral is vetiver. This root is a rigid, earthy, and totally materialistic note but at the same time it sometimes goes outrageous and breaks into calculations. Vetiver is like a frenzy troublesome in perfume composition. Once tamed, it shows humility and in collaboration with calm notes as grapefruit can surprisingly turn into an aristocratic luxury.

Sunday, January 17, 2016

Await the fate of the cruel sea: Sel Marin by James Heeley

Sel Marin by James Heeley




And the sailors, they sing sad songs,
About the sea that eats them whole.
And the sailors they sing sad songs,
Food for fishes shoals...

That was not by me, it's Tiger Lillies' song. Few years ago when I was an audience of an absurd theatre, sitting at the utmost corner of the last row of seats, I discovered this song which was a part of the show. It immediately evoked a strong sense and I knew at the moment that it would entirely preoccupy my mind for tomorrow. The song, the show and my mood in that days overlapped like a syzygy of planets after a millennium. Such understandings make big shakes and Renaissances.

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

In the spotlight: Fracas by Robert Piguet

Fracas by Robert Piguet


What could be more exciting than encountering the source of something? Like Fracas which is know a source in tuberose perfumes... A legendary perfume, a supreme transcendent that donates all the beauty you have been always looking for. This is my expressions upon new Fracas. Fracas might not necessarily be the first tuberose perfume, but it is obviously a premium one.