Monday, February 29, 2016

Pearl necklace glimmers: Fars by Xerjoff

Just by my curiosity about how others see my culture, I asked a sample of Fars from a friend in Jovoy Paris. Fars is a member of Oud Stars series of the house of Xerjoff that is released in 2012  by Chris Maurice who's the author of most of Xerjoff, Al Kimiya, and Sospiro fragrances. Fars, beside five others of this collection, is composed for gratitude of traditional Middle Eastern perfumery and each gem is named after Ibn-i Battuta's travel literature.

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Fashion and spirit of 21th century: Chypre 21 by James Heeley

Chypre 21 by James Heeley

James Heeley whose furniture designs follow a certain modern, rectangular and scientific minimalist atmosphere, has recently worked out on his latest perfume Chypre 21. A fashionable modern chypre fragrance in which the clue is to be specific to the current century.

Sunday, February 21, 2016

Strong sylvan presence: 07 Tanoke by Odin

07 Tanoke by Odin

The first time I tried 07 Tanoke I had been enchanted by several olibanum scents and their Catholic atmosphere, as Comme des Garçons Avognon, James Heeley Cardinal, and Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures. The other side, it happened when I was so amused by floral mossy creations of 80's; rigid, macho sporty, green oily masculines as Ferré for Man 1986. So I was out of smokes somehow.

Friday, February 19, 2016

Dark fruity, cute animalistic: Bat by Zoologist

Bat by Zoologist

Zoologist is one of those brands with continually flourishing chronology from one release to another. The brand appeared in 2014 with three perfumes named after three animals and continues to a glimmering future. Its forth release, Hummingbird, is a marvelous fruity fragrance which I couldn't manage to go through in a decent review before Victor Wong announced the brand's fifth fruit; Bathits the markets by the end of 2015. Each Zoologist is a collaboration of this indie-niche perfume house with a praised artisanal perfumer. Bat is Dr. Ellen Covey's art.

Ellen Covey who's a professor at department of psychology in University of Washington, frequently looks to purest forms of nature and cultures in her olfactory arts. Moreover, her works have fluent and easy going storytelling language, yet charged with highest level of emotion. Like an experienced theatre player whose being on stage spreads a great energy. Her Blackbird, which is a manifest of nature, is olfactory equivalence of Hans Christian Anderson's literature.

Photo borrowed from Zoologist Pinterest

You can now imagine how the juxtaposition of such talented nose and such creative perfume house is, but you can't imagine how marvelous the result truly can be unless you experience it by your own, cause what I'm smelling this last days is much beyond human lingual abilities. A friend of mine who blind bought this perfume upon Covey's name, and is a great reviewer, says "I don't dare to write down. I can't fit it in language. Maybe we have to introduce some new sounds and body language to emphasize".

My expectation before I receive the fragrance was a dark, mysterious, evil, and Gothic type of smell, parallel to Matthew Lewis' The Monk or Hieronymus Bosch's painting, full of indications to divine punishments and fantasies, dark and medieval grotesque with vampires, baths and witches. The first whiffs... Ok, it was on the same mood half the way, but it's not another Edgar Allan Poe'ish liquid literature. It's is so so great! I'm seriously so impressed.

One feature of Ellen Covey's works is they make you think. Think about an idea you may already know, break the ordinary definitions and reconstruct it, rediscover it in correct way. I admire her academic point of view in her perfumes. Bat is not an exception. Our default on this mammal is a calamitous, grisly, and disease-spreading creature with prehistoric pristine physic of a small dinosaur who has not been evolved for millenniums. This expectations are result of insufficient knowledge on specific areas of study.

I have never seen a fruit bat, they're not local to my geography, but I clearly understand how cute they can be! Imagine a dark hirsute small flying rat with his two big eyes full of wonder and questions - like it's his first hours on planet - is eating mango like there's no tomorrow! It's a strange paradoxical clash of emotions. Fear and laugh at once! This paradoxical manner is fragrance's main ego...

The fragrance initiates with an uncertain romanticist pleasure. It's dark fruity! Explodes Caron-Yatagan-type of animality and Covey's renown clay smell plus delightful fruity theme. Some reviews indicate to wet soil, I get wet clay of pottery instead of petrichor type of smell. By this means, the soil smell in the fragrance is kind of neutre and bass, not soprano like violet-based perfume as Serge Lutens De Profundis. The fragrance although is not very evil and omen, still evokes the darkness and reminds me of Goya's canvases. There's kind of fun and bitter humor behind dark world of Goya and in the same level, wet and fruity themes perform in dark-hearted Bat.

Francisco Goya, El gran cabrón (Witches' Sabbath), 1823 - click to enlarge please

You're facing a very earthy perfume with all aspects attributed to earth and animality. Earth not as an aspect of dust or soil only, but undivinity and irreligious mood. Banana and fig both are so, are lustful, but the nose intensifies the sense with roots and soil tincture, vetiver. And deepens it with resins.

Though animalic nuances are bold from the beginning beside fresh fruits, they appear more vibrant in the heart of fragrance. Bat is an unique fragrance which you can't find an akin unless in Olympic Orchids portfolio. And it's an unique animalic fragrance with clean and decent and non-aggressive manner of musk and leather. What I love about Bat is its oxymoronic emotions and it's inner battle of poignant/joyous feelings. It keeps me smelling my writs every minute unconsciously. Just one of a kind by all means and the best of Zoologist.

At the end I invite you to watch a marvelous unboxing video by the same friend who quoted about Bat...

Carpe Odor!

Friday, February 12, 2016

It is not only pleasure and lust that erotism points on: Italian Angel by O'Driù

Italian Angel by O'Driù

Inge Prader, photography inspired by Gustav Klimt paintings

One of my most amusing blog postings is writing on Angelo Orazio Pregoni's works. At the same time, O'Driù is always a hard task to come across cause the perfumes are in fact more than liquids. Each article is a media itself to manifest, to demonstrate, to cite something not delivered by lingual abilities, or not preferred to indicate by verbal language. Like a painting its full of personal points of view and I have to discover Angelo's persona in the context of smell and deliver his message clear as he made perfume upon!

Saturday, February 6, 2016

50 years, 50 materials, 50 bottles: Gardelia by Bogue Profumo

Gardelia by Bogue Profumo

Antonio Gardoni, architect and perfumer, who last years occupied an priceless room in animalic fans' heart with his extraordinary and authentic classical MAAI, has recently worked out on a semi-bespoke fragrance for celebration of 50th anniversary of opening Profumeria Sacro Cuore boutique in Bologna and also 50th anniversary of the owners' wedding; Giovanni and Lia Padovan.